Ever had slippie blade play go away?

VermontEdge

VermontEdge

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Jun 10, 2015
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I got a couple GECs recently, one brand new and one NIT from a member. Both had a tiny bit of wobble in one of the blades. It was the kind of play where you can actually feel the base of the blade wobbling back and forth (if that makes sense...).

Anyway, I applied some nano oil to all of the joints and I've carried them both a couple of times and I'll be darned if I can't feel any movement in either of those blades anymore. What's the deal? Does the oil just dampen the feeling until it's imperceptible? Other ideas? Has this happened to anyone else?

In either case, totally not complaining about anything! Just curious.


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What does the crankshaft in a motor spin on? The oil between the two bearing halves. Until the oil runs out, it must be filling the gap........
Or maybe a little oxidation has helped or some foreign debris.
 
I don't think I have ever had play go away on its own! I guess you are just lucky:) That or Rockon is correct...
 
If you have 2 blades on the same pivot (such as a Jack Knife) any play in one blade can equalize out between the many sandwiched layers on that end of the knife.

Having said that: taking the wobble out of a blade is a great way to get your feet wet in slipjoint repair/service. If the spring isn't too wide it is very simple to:

~Squeeze the bolsters in a padded vice (go slowly and check progress, you don't want to be too tight).
~Peen the exposed pivot pin(s)
~Sand or file the pivot pin flat with the rest of the bolster
~Buff the bolsters back to a shine or use Scotchbrite to create a satin finish on the bolsters and backspring.
 
I had a new baby Butterbean with some blade play, also felt a little gritty. Washed it in dish detergent, dried, oiled, and the blade play disappeared completely. I've tried it with other knives since then - no such luck. I assume some piece of grit was holding the blade off the liner.
 
Good thread topic & good comments.
I'll add...
The cross section of a pin,that has been " peened" ,looks like an hour glass shape. With useage sometimes blade play can develop. But then,oiling & cycling the blade,the liners slide back down & into place & the play tightens up. I've had a few knives that were like this . Any knife maker of these folders will tell you,the pivots can't be over tight.
 
That is interesting information Vince. I bought a custom knife that had blade play when I received it. I sent it back to the maker and he said he did all he could do (I couldn't tell any difference) and that if he tightened it any more, it would make it too tight to open.

Do you think it could be fixed?
 
LastRodeo said:
That is interesting information Vince. I bought a custom knife that had blade play when I received it. I sent it back to the maker and he said he did all he could do (I couldn't tell any difference) and that if he tightened it any more, it would make it too tight to open.

Do you think it could be fixed?
Click to expand...

I would accept his advice. On custom slipjoints the liner material is usually ss & blades are higher Rc ( wether carbon or ss) . So these two very hard materials are now laying against each other. If they are not perfectly flush to each other,play will more than likely be there.

Menefee & Dowell,and I am sure other makers too,use the bronze washer alongside the blade system,taught to them by Dan Burke. This allows " self lubrication" to some degree and also acts as a " buffer" allow themaker to peen a little harder,because of that softer material sandwiched in between liner & blade tang

The system Tony Bose use is also a great one, when peened,the liner lays hard against the bushing. The blade then pivots on that bushing. Again it allows for harder peening together.


I always say,if you see a 100 year old pocket knife with a sloppy side to side pivot ( we all hate it but >>) that knife still works,opens & closes. So blade play,that we all hate,it does not necessarily mean that knife is gonna blow apart,or,can't work for you
 
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