ever make a knife duller when sharpening

hardheart

hardheart

Joined
Sep 19, 2001
Messages
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I was going through a nearly full progression on a Cara Cara - 120/400 SiC, 600 diamond, medium/fine/ultra fine spyderco, 2.5 SiC, CrO loaded leather; and noticed how I damaged the edge when I went from medium to fine ceramic. I had the knife rough shaving at 120 grit, and was able to refine it from the 600 to medium without creating a burr, but then I got caught up in watching the scratch pattern on the edge bevel while using the fine (the edge is chisel ground because the knife is CE, very wide bevel) Before I knew it, I had a large burr along the edge; at least large for an already shaving edge and fine ceramic abrasive.

I was doing a little thread cutting at each stage of sharpening, just to see, and the force went from 80g to 120g between the medium and fine. I got it down to 70g with stropping, but that's not what I was hoping for. That misstep in sharpening is quite the time waster.

Don't get me wrong, a burr can a good indicator on something like a damaged or highly worn edge, but it's not something you want to be all large and shiny in your face, especially past ~1000 grit.
 
I sure have, until I figured out to not strop so hard on the edge, I did it every time.
 
Yes, this is exactly why I wrote in the other thread, that a good, long lasting edge is too me ALL about the burr. Happens to me especially when overdoing it on the ceramic sticks on relatively soft steel like a Zwillings or Wusthof. I think this is also what Jeff Clark meant when talking about raising a burr and then having to chase it.

I am very impressed, btw. , that you get your edges roughly shaving on 120 grit! I am currently playing with the Norten India fine and have trouble getting a shaving edge on that, and that is around 500# I would guess. I find it quite difficult to get it to roughly shaving and I haven't been able to get an edge that I would consider suffient WITHOUT using either strop or 10000 grit afterwards (that is an interesting combination though). So my hat's of to you getting a roughly shaving edge on 120 grit.
 
I am not using ceramic, I think it is too hard - very fine edge can be damage too easy, bu I did dull the edge during polishing before - rolling edge and also caught this situation with thread testing. I finally manage how to not to dull it using thiner leather etc.

But isn't it usefull - thread test? At least you know for sure what is going on on your edge.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
HoB said:
Yes, this is exactly why I wrote in the other thread, that a good, long lasting edge is too me ALL about the burr. Happens to me especially when overdoing it on the ceramic sticks on relatively soft steel like a Zwillings or Wusthof. I think this is also what Jeff Clark meant when talking about raising a burr and then having to case it.

I am very impressed, btw. , that you get your edges roughly shaving on 120 grit! I am currently playing with the Norten India fine and have trouble getting a shaving edge on that, and that is around 500# I would guess. I find it quite difficult to get it to roughly shaving and I haven't been able to get an edge that I would consider suffient WITHOUT using either strop or 10000 grit afterwards (that is an interesting combination though). So my hat's of to you getting a roughly shaving edge on 120 grit.
Click to expand...

It's 320 grit, if I remember correctly. I can get knives shaving with it, but you have to be very careful.
 
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