Ever try to remove a bead blast?

W

will22

Joined
May 13, 2002
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Well I have and it's alot more work than I thought. I'm taking the bead blast off my Benchmade AFO. I used to keep the blade oiled and It would still show spots of rust. I know that they bead blast tactical knives so they don't reflect light but frankly I think bead blasting BLOWS and I have no idea why knife companys use it. It was the first knife that I ever bought with that finish and it is now the last.

I finaly got sick enough of it to start sanding. It's coming along but benchmade really bead blasted the hell out of that thing. I started with 150 grit paper and will move to 220, 600, and then a full mirror polish on a felt wheel with compound. I will try to post a pic when it's done.
 
I don't really care for mirror finishes. I also read that bead blast is the most succeptable to rust over any other satin finish.
 
Bead blasting in general is actually a very thick surface finish. I've gotta remove a lot of metal to get rid of it. It's generally not practical or economical to undo bead blasting.
 
Yup! It pretty much sucks to remove but I have one side almost done.

I don't really know why but lately I really like mirror finishes. Maybe it's because you don't see them as often. But when you really get it to shine I really love the way it looks.
 
Well, I just had my emerson commander and my nimravus bead blasted, and I can't be happier. i like their look and feel, and it's defferent from that black.
 
will22 said:
I think bead blasting BLOWS and I have no idea why knife companys use it. .

.
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I hear ya. I use 1500 grit sandpaper under running water. I don't even bother buying knives with BB finishes unless it's something unique. Then of course I break out the sandpaper. Beadblasted blades suck.
 
I put a 600 grit finish on a CRKT Kiss and it wasn't difficult at all. Still don't like the knife, though.
 
Some months back (before I found the font of knife knowledge that is BF) I decided to remove the finish from a CRKT Carson F4. With a Dremel. Several hours later, I had a mirror polished (but highly pitted) F4. Conclusion: Removing a bead blast is easier said than done (for a novice like me).

Cheers
 
Ya, I did it to a cheap knife first to test it and it came off in no time. The benchmade is much harder to get off. It's like removing minor rust pitting.
 
will22 -

here's a suggestion that you may or may not have tried - when sanding the knife, wrap your sand paper around something hard and flat, like a file or a paint-stirring stick (the file/metal rod works better, though, because it's harder material). Having a solid back behind the sand paper makes a huge difference in the amount of work you have to do. Also, affix the knife to a firm surface when you sand. I use a C-clamp and clamp the knife, via the handle, onto a work bench. Finally, use Norton brand, aluminum oxide sand paper - it really does "cut 3x faster" than any others.

Hope these tips help... I learned them through many long hours of hand sanding knives... :D And, of course, please post pics of the finished product! :cool:
 
will22 said:
I know that they bead blast tactical knives so they don't reflect light but frankly I think bead blasting BLOWS and I have no idea why knife companys use it.
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The name for this behaviour is "cost reducing".

Bead blasting is cheap. It's a lot cheaper than putting a proper finish on the knife. Faster, too. Which also means cheaper.
 
Just remember that not all bead blasting is created equal. If it's done "right" the blade is first taken down to a fairly fine satin finish, and you use ceramic beads to basically shotpeen the surface. This leaves a matte/satin look to the blade and also helps to prevent rust. The way most manufacturers seem to do it is the same as you would before applying a coating to the surface, in which case the rough blast would help adhesion.
 
I mirror polished a beadblasted Kershaw Vapor to see if I could do it. I think it's probably best to start at like 600 grit and work up from there. I started at 220 grit, then 320, 400, 600, and finally 1500 grit, and there's still the heavier grit lines on the blade.

Beadblasting blades is very economical, and that's why companies do it. Don't have to worry about grind lines or tiny imperfections, cause they're all coming off. Much simpler than satin finishing, and far, far easier than mirror polishing.

I'd rather have a stonewashed blade myself for a less fancy "working" blade.
 
Trout Tamer said:
will22 -

here's a suggestion that you may or may not have tried - when sanding the knife, wrap your sand paper around something hard and flat, like a file or a paint-stirring stick (the file/metal rod works better, though, because it's harder material). Having a solid back behind the sand paper makes a huge difference in the amount of work you have to do. Also, affix the knife to a firm surface when you sand. I use a C-clamp and clamp the knife, via the handle, onto a work bench. Finally, use Norton brand, aluminum oxide sand paper - it really does "cut 3x faster" than any others.

Hope these tips help... I learned them through many long hours of hand sanding knives... :D And, of course, please post pics of the finished product! :cool:
Click to expand...

If you plan on hand finishing a few blades get some micarta and make a few sanding blocks. It's hard and flat and water proof. Something I use is the stones diemakers use to polish metal I have a couple of white ones the grit is about 180 maybe 220. these seem to get deep scratches out fast.
 
I recently got a Bark River that Comando that I tried to remove the bead blasting from...holy cow! what a handful! I've really started to run out of patience with this one. 'bout half tempted to take it back to the shop I worked in this summer and see if they'll let me sneak in for a minute to re blast it. then I'd have a super special STERILE Bark River.... :D

Of course I might be able to get it the rest of the way from here with a Dremel tool and some Flitz...Also wonder how well A-2 would take to cold bluing?
 
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