- Joined
- Oct 16, 2005
- Messages
- 272
I got a blem AK from Yangdu a few months ago and while studying it, I wondered....what would this beast look like straight? So while on a two week break from med school, I fired up my forge and went to the anvil. The result was a little different than expected.
1) a crack appeared at the tip on the cutting edge, just about where the original hardening line stopped. Probably a micro fracture from the original hardening that opened up when the piece was heated to 1600 degrees. No worries, I just shortened about 3/4 inch.
2) the grinds on these blades are pretty complex. The proximal 1/3 of the blade is thicker and ground fairly obtuse compared to the distal 1/3 with a transition zone at the curve.
So...when I got is straightened, I decided to forge it more or less into a flat primary bevel with a distal taper. I have it ready to apply clay to the spine so as to develop a nice ( hopefully aesthetic ) hamon when I quench. I'll be using quenching oil I got from Mr. Ellis here on the forum so hopefully no more fractures decide to magically appear. here are some pre clay pics.



1) a crack appeared at the tip on the cutting edge, just about where the original hardening line stopped. Probably a micro fracture from the original hardening that opened up when the piece was heated to 1600 degrees. No worries, I just shortened about 3/4 inch.
2) the grinds on these blades are pretty complex. The proximal 1/3 of the blade is thicker and ground fairly obtuse compared to the distal 1/3 with a transition zone at the curve.
So...when I got is straightened, I decided to forge it more or less into a flat primary bevel with a distal taper. I have it ready to apply clay to the spine so as to develop a nice ( hopefully aesthetic ) hamon when I quench. I'll be using quenching oil I got from Mr. Ellis here on the forum so hopefully no more fractures decide to magically appear. here are some pre clay pics.


