Everything you could possibly want to know about knives

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A Short History/summary of Knives

A knife is any cutting edge or blade, handheld or otherwise, with or without a handle. Knives were used at least two-and-a-half million years ago, as evidenced by the Oldowan tools. Originally made of rock, flint, and obsidian; knives have evolved in construction as technology has with blades being made from bronze, copper, iron, steel, ceramics, and titanium. Every culture has a unique version of the knife. A knife may be either a fixed-blade or a folding version with blade patterns and styles as varied as their makers and countries of origin. Due to its role as mankind's first tool, certain cultures have attached spiritual and religious significance to the knife.

Types of Knives:


Fixed blade knives
A fixed blade knife, sometimes called a sheath knife, does not fold or slide, and is typically stronger due to the tang, the extension of the blade into the handle, and lack of moving parts.

Folding blade knives

A folding knife connects the blade to the handle through a pivot, allowing the blade to fold into the handle. To prevent injury to the knife user through the blade accidentally closing on the user's hand, folding knives typically have a locking mechanism. Different locking mechanisms are favored by various individuals for reasons such as perceived strength (lock safety), legality, and ease of use. Popular locking mechanisms include:

• Slip joint – Found most commonly on traditional pocket knives, the opened blade does not lock, but is held in place by a spring device that allows the blade to fold if a certain amount of pressure is applied.

• Lockback – Also known as the spine lock, the lockback includes a pivoted latch affixed to a spring, and can be disengaged only by pressing the latch down to release the blade.

• Liner Lock – Invented by Michael Walker, uses a leaf spring-type liner within the groove of the handle that snaps into position under the blade when it is deployed. The lock is released by pushing the liner to the side, to allow the blade to return to its groove set into the handle.

• Frame Lock – Also known as the integral lock or monolock, this locking mechanism was invented by custom knifemaker Chris Reeve for the Sebenza as an update to the liner lock. The frame lock works in a manner similar to the liner lock but uses a partial cutout of the actual knife handle, rather than a separate liner inside the handle to hold the blade in place.

• Button Lock

• Axis Lock – A locking mechanism exclusively licensed to the Benchmade Knife Company.

• PickLock – A round post on the back base of the blade locks into a hole in a spring tab in the handle. To close, manually lift (pick) the spring tab (lock) off the blade post with your fingers, or in "Italian Style Stilettos" swivel the bolster (hand guard) clockwise to lift the spring tab off the blade post.

Another prominent feature on many folding knives is the opening mechanism. Traditional pocket knives and Swiss Army Knives commonly employ the nail nick, while modern folding knives more often use a stud, hole, disk, or flipper located on the blade, all which have the benefit of allowing the user to open the knife with one hand.

Automatic or switchblade knives open using the stored energy from a spring that is released when the user presses a button or lever or other actuator built into the handle of the knife. Automatic knives are popular amongst law enforcement and military users for their ease of rapid deployment and their ability to be opened using only one hand Automatic knives are severely restricted by law in most American states.

Increasingly common are assisted opening knives which use springs to propel the blade once the user has moved it past a certain angle. These differ from automatic or switchblade knives in that the blade is not released by means of a button or catch on the handle; rather, the blade itself is the actuator. Most assisted openers use flippers as their opening mechanism. Assisted opening knives can be as fast or faster than automatic knives to deploy.

Sliding blade knives

A sliding knife is a knife which can be opened by sliding the knife blade out the front of the handle. One method of opening is where the blade exits out the front of the handle point-first and then is locked into place (an example of this is the gravity knife). Another form is a O-T-F (out-the-front) switchblade, which only requires the push of a button or spring to cause the blade to slide out of the handle, and lock into place. To retract the blade back into the handle, a release lever or button, usually the same control as to open, is pressed. A very common form of sliding knife is the sliding utility knife (commonly known as a stanley knife or boxcutter).
Gravity knives
A gravity knife is a knife that opens by the force of inertia or gravity. Similar to a switchblade, it is made with a side-folding blade or an out-the-front (OTF), or telescoping, blade. The gravity knife is different from the switchblade, which is spring-driven, in that it needs to be "flipped" out of the handle manually. Military gravity knives lock open. Some English and civilian gravity knives do not mechanically lock open but rely on a strong friction cam surface against the blade. Factory-made gravity knives have various types of buttons, triggers, and fulcrum levers, which usually are used to release the blade from both the open and the closed positions.

Butterfly Knives (aka Balisong)

A balisong, otherwise known as a butterfly knife or a Batangas knife or sometimes called Bente Nueve, is a folding pocket knife with two handles counter-rotating around the tang such that, when closed, the blade is concealed within grooves in the handles. In the hands of a trained user, the knife blade can be brought to bear quickly using one hand. Manipulations, called flipping, are performed for art or amusement.
 
Balisong Parts:

Bite Handle
The handle that closes on the sharp edge of the blade.

Kicker (or Kick)

Area on the blade that prevents the sharp edge from contacting the inside of the handle and suffering damage. This is sometimes supplanted by an additional tang pin above the pivots.

Latch
The standard locking system, which holds the balisong closed. Magnets are occasionally used instead.

Latch, Batangas
A latch that is attached to the bite handle.

Latch, Manila

A latch that is attached to the safe handle.

Latch, Spring
A latch that utilizes a spring to propel the latch open when the handles are squeezed.

Safe Handle
The handle that closes on the non-sharpened edge of the blade.

Latch gate
A block inside the channel of the handles stopping the latch from impacting the blade.

Tang
The base of the blade where the handles are attached with pivot pins.

IKBS
Ikoma-Korth Bearing System. A high end ball bearing system that maximizes smoothness, found in high-end custom balisongs.

Choil

Small curve found on some balisongs just above the kicker, that makes it easier to sharpen the blade.

Swedge

Unsharpened spine of the blade that is angled to appear as if it were sharpened.


Types of Blade Metal:

0-1 is perhaps the most forgiving of any knife quality steel other than the very
simple alloy types, and produces a blade of excellent quality for most normal use.

0-6 is the next step up from 0-1 easy heat treat but pure hell to grind. It's
significantly tougher, with finer crystalline structure and hard graphitic particles that
resist wear.

W-1, W-2, and the series of 10 — steels from 1045 through 1095 are the ultimate
in simplicity and very shallow hardening so they may be used to make a selectively
hardened edge as one sees on old Japanese swords. Toughness is outstanding, with
these alloys being used for grader blade edges, truck springs and files.

5160 is a common spring steel, basically 1060 with one per-cent of chromium added
to make it deep hardening. (It may still be selectively drawn with a softer back, if
desired.) An excellent steel for swords, or any other blade that will have to take
some battering.

52100 is a ball bearing steel, generally not found in useful grinding sizes, but terrific
in edge holding and toughness. 52100 is 5160 with an attitude, more alloy and more
carbon that makes it harder and tougher. Like 5160, throws a brilliant yellow spark.

L-6 is the band or circular saw blade steel used in most lumber mills and downright
hard to find in any other form. Hardens in oil to about RC 57 and takes a fine edge
for most cutting, particularly where the edge might be steeled back into shape.
Outstanding where flexibility is needed but rusts easily, like virtually all of the simple
carbon steels. L-7 is the same stuff with a little more carbon.

A-2 is exceptional steel, with fine wear-resisting qualities plus excellent resistance to
annealing and warping. Grinding is noticeably harder than 0-1 but not extremely
difficult. Sawing is tougher and relates to the five percent of chrome in this steels
chemical make up.

D-2 offers another air hardening tool steel, but with 12% chrome and excellent, if
not superb, wear resistance. The resistance also holds true in both sawing and
grinding, even while the steel is fully annealed. While using belts up at a faster rate
than average, D-2 is not particularly hard to grind with fresh belts. Using old belts
causes enough heat to work harden the steel. D-2 anneals at somewhat higher
temperature than A-2 and will not take a true, mirror polish.

M-2
is high temperature steel made for lath cutting tools, which has darn little to do
with knives, but allows you to really cook the blade in finishing after heat treat
without annealing it. M-2 is perhaps a bit better in edge holding than D-2. It is also
rather brittle and not recommended for large knives.

440C was the first generally accepted knife makers' stainless and remains quite
popular, particularly since the sub-zero process was developed to add toughness. On
the grinder, it's gummy and gets hot fast, but it cuts a lot faster and easier than any
of the carbon steels. Your belts will cut about 2 to 3 times as much 440-C than 0-1.
Using hand hacksaws on it will wear out a lot of blades in a hurry. But with the
proper care, good heat treating and finishing, 440C produces an excellent,
serviceable and durable knife.

154 CM was considered by many to be super-steel, While excellent in use, 154 CM
eats up the finest hacksaw blades in one across-the-bar cut of 1-1/2". It's machining and grinding qualities are similar to 440C and won't win it any awards for ease in working. In use though, this alloy has a definite advantage in both hardness and toughness over 440C. 154 CM is not an accepted standard grade designation, rather a manufacturers trade name.

ATS-34 Japanese-made stainless considered the equal of 154 CM. Import
restrictions have been eased somewhat, although they were forced to raise the price
by 50%. Cleaner than the 154 CM. (154 CM is no longer used in government
specified applications and is not the vacuum melt product that we once appreciated.)
ATS-34 is virtually the exact same alloy as 154 CM, minus 0.04% of one of the less
essential elements. ATS-34 is double vacuum melted and very clean. ATS-34 is a trade name. The three, 154 CM, ATS-34 and 440-C, all have a small, reddish spark that has a distinct, but hard to see carbon fork. ATS-34 is also a trade name.

AEBL seems to be about 440B. Extremely easy to grind, Edge holding is best when heat treating includes a freeze cycle. Very easy to polish and buff. Very nice choice for miniatures, kitchen knives, etc. AEBL has several quirky habits in grinding that make it difficult to use on thicker or larger knives. Makes nice kitchen knives. "Hoss" uses this in his beautiful stainless Damascus and reports that it holds up very well.

VASCO WEAR is rather expensive but very, very good in edge holding. Resists
grinding very well too!

DAMASCUS steel is such a widely made product that it is impossible to make too
many general statements about it, other than it seems to catch collectors better than
any other type. Each smith does his in a slightly different way, ranging from the
fellow who toughs it out, starting with three layers, to the guy who welds a 300 layer
sandwich of shim stock into a billet with one hit in a 40 ton press. They're all pretty.

STELLITE 6-K fits into the same category as Vasco Wear in the wear resistance
area, but doesn't need heat treating since there is no iron in it at all. The trick is
exceptionally hard particles embedded in a rather soft alloy. Very flexible and easy to
bend. Virtually cannot be brought to a mirror finish. Stellite blades are very much in
demand by some collectors.

TITANIUM is only a marginally acceptable metal for a knife blade. It cannot be
hardened much past the mid 40's of the Rockwell C scale, and that's spring, or
throwing knife territory.


Handle and Body Materials:

The handles of knives can be made from a number of different materials, each of which has advantages and disadvantages. Handles are produced in a wide variety of shapes and styles. Handles are often textured to enhance grip.

• Wood handles provide good grip and are warm in the hand, but are more difficult to care for. They do not resist water well, and will crack or warp with prolonged exposure to water. Modern stabilized and laminated woods have largely overcome these problems. Many beautiful and exotic hardwoods are employed in the manufacture of custom and some production knives. In some countries it is now forbidden for commercial butchers' knives to have wood handles, for sanitary reasons.

• Plastic handles are more easily cared for than wooden handles, but can be slippery and become brittle over time.

• Rubber handles such as Kraton or Respirine-C are generally preferred over plastic due to their durable and cushioning nature.

• Micarta is a popular handle material on user knives due to its toughness and stability. Micarta is impervious to water, is grippy when wet, and is an excellent insulator. Micarta has come to refer to any fibrous material cast in resin. There are many varieties of micarta available. One very popular version is a fibreglass impregnated resin called G-10.

• Leather handles are seen on some hunting and military knives, notably the KA-BAR. Leather handles are typically produced by stacking leather washers, or less commonly, as a sleeve surrounding another handle material.

• Skeleton handles refers to the practice of using the tang itself as the handle, usually with sections of material removed to reduce weight. Skeleton handled knives are often wrapped with parachute cord or other wrapping materials to enhance grip.

• Stainless steel handles are durable and sanitary, but can be slippery. To counter this, premium knife makers make handles with ridges, bumps, or indentations to provide extra grip.

More exotic materials usually only seen on art or ceremonial knives include: Stone, bone, mammoth tooth, mammoth ivory, oosik, walrus tusk, stag, sheep horn, buffalo horn, teeth, etc. Many materials have been employed in knife handles.

Well OK not everything you would or could possibly know but a good start for the newbies!

Sources:

Wikipedia
Bob Engnath's website
 
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Thanks for the summary, but I still want to know more about knives:).

Is the idea to add to the original posts until "everything you could possibly want to know about knives" is listed? If so, that is a great idea.

It would also be good to quote/ cite your sources for respect of the authors.
 
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Thanks for the summary, but I still want to know more about knives:).

Is the idea to add to the original posts until "everything you could possibly want to know about knives" is listed? If so, that is a great idea.

It would also be good to quote/ cite your sources for respect of the authors.

That is exactly what I'm going for!

If anyone else has anything to add, post and I shall edit the first post.
 
That is exactly what I'm going for!

If anyone else has anything to add, post and I shall edit the first post.


In the Maintenance /Tinkering subsection there is some great info about knife steels and micro bevels -just be sure to use proper quotations and citations:thumbup: where needed: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=794

Here is a good link for creating reference citations:http://www.calvin.edu/library/knightcite/index.php

just fill in everything you know and hit "submit." Then you can paste that reference at the bottom of your post.
 
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Ummm....well, while I go looking for some websites to cut and paste from don't forget to add the great Jamaican steel...Rosta-Frei



Ja Mon!
Many times I have been to the forums and always I see everyone say "this steel is better" or "that steel is the best" and every time it just make me laugh. Many people say Japanese steel is good and other people say American steel is better. It is time that the world once and for all should know the truth: The best steel in the world is from Jamaica and it is called Rosta-Frei Steel.

Now I know you going to say " yeah, yeah, sure,sure, what makes this Rosta-Frei Steel so much better than the rest?" Well I tell you….

First of all, EVERYONE in Jamaica use this steel in their blades. Everyone say that Rosta-Frei is #1! We use Rosta-Frei Steel to cut our vegetables and fruits. We use Rosta-Frei Steel to cut our meat. We use Rosta-Frei Steel to cut our herbs in the fields. Ja Mon!

The reason why our steel cut so good is in the heat treat. We use special herbal process to treat our steel. What kind of herbs? I cannot tell you or it will not be a secret!;)

Everyday I try to give thanks. Thank you and God Bless!

and somewhere you need to fit in "Smatchet".
 
Ah yes, very interesting, but, you forgot to paste the part that tells me what the best blade is for ME!
 
george-costanza.jpg

SEBENZA!
 
Is G-10 really a subset of micarta? G-10 uses epoxy resin and I was under the impression that all micarta variations use phenolic resin as the matrix.

Bill
 
Where's the Smatchet in that list?

THE SMATCHET
By W.E. Fairbairn
(From Get Tough!)

The psychological reaction of any man, when he first takes the smatchet in his hand, is full justification for its recommendation as a fighting weapon. He will immediately register all the essential qualities of a good soldier-confidence, determination, and aggressiveness.

Its balance, weight, and killing power, with the point, edge, or pommel, combined with the extremely simple training necessary to become efficient in its use, make it the ideal personal weapon for all those not armed with a rifle and bayonet.

Note. - The smatchet is now in wide use throughout the British armed forces. It is hoped that it will soon be adopted by the United States Army.


fairbairn_46.gif


Carrying, Drawing, and Holding

The smatchet should be carried in the scabbard on the left side of the belt, as in Fig. 113. This permits one to run, climb, sit, or lie down.

Note.-Any equipment at present carried in this position should be removed to another place.

Pass the right hand through the thong and draw upwards with a bent arm (Fig. 114).

Grip the handle as near the guard as possible, cutting edge downwards (Fig. 115).

fairbairn_47.gif


Close-In Blows

Drive well into the stomach (Fig. 116).

"Sabre Cut" to right-low of neck (Fig. 117).

Cut to left-low of neck (Fig. 118).

Smash up with pommel, under chin (Fig. 119).

Smash down with pommel into the face (Fig. 120).

fairbairn_48.gif


Close-In Blows

Drive well into the stomach (Fig. 116).

"Sabre Cut" to right-low of neck (Fig. 117).

Cut to left-low of neck (Fig. 118).

Smash up with pommel, under chin (Fig. 119).

Smash down with pommel into the face (Fig. 120).

Attacking Blows

"Sabre Cut" to left or right wrist (Fig. 121).

"Sabre Cut" to left or right arm (Fig. 122).



Above info shamelessly copy/pasted from http://www.gutterfighting.org/smatchet.html.
 
Michael Walker did not invent the liner lock by at least 70 years. Now I'm wondering what other misinformation is in there.
 
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