ewww - that's smelly

Bladite

Bladite

ǝɹnsıǝן ɟo uɐɯǝןʇuǝb
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just had a pyrex container kersplode on me... didn't know i could jump backwards, do a flip, push off the wall, and land clinging to the ceiling :> i think it cooled off too fast. it also dumped about 2 quarts of boiling water into my stove. hey, it's got a baffle in their to hold it all in. yay. trying to prevent exploding boiling water from sloshing around is a picnic i'll tell ya :> had to resort to a siphon later to get the eventually warm water out of the stove into a bucket. yar.

but i'm getting ahead of myself :) i'm wanting to remove the cracked horn handle on a kukri ("nepal" marked, not HI :>)...

got some water boiling in a pyrex pan, to heat up the handle of the "nepal" kukri, and pull it off. it's got a full tapering tang which i guessed by tapping... so while the water is readying, i'm filing off the bit of brazing on the butt...

what is that smellll? uhm. smell likes ... dung? the old brown "glue" like substance is pretty crystallized by now (15+ years old). okay, scrape off bits, take the butt plate and cap off, scrape more stuff off... it's ALLLLL over. filler and glue. ok, ready. boil boil toil and trouble and all that. handle eventually gives, slides off, and releases a really concentrated burst of that FOWL dung like smell. oh my god. turn on the fans, light the candles, release the hounds, open the windows. this stuff is kinda smoking too. oh my. ewww :) at least the handle is off.

then the pyrex pan shatters. the hell? did i release the spirits of the knife?

well, the handle is off, the windows open, it's a shiny 30 dF out :) soon i'll go outside and scrape every last trace of that STUFF out, and off.

next up...

epoxy or gorilla glue... or ? the eternal debate.

the crack is from kind of self-stretching/sloughing/growth of the horn, not overpressure or abuse. i'm told various kinds of natural materials like this can "creep", well, this split. it's not a simple matter sadly of just glueing and pressing back i think. plus the crack has grown, so it might be better to open the split all the way, glue it and fill and try to clamp it down. i'm half thinking of drilling out some oak i have, making my own handle. mmm.

bladite

(uhm, ewww!)
 
I thought you weren't supposed to put Pyrex on a burner, that it was only meant for ovens? Maybe I misremember.

Glad you're OK.
 
Aardvark said:
I thought you weren't supposed to put Pyrex on a burner, that it was only meant for ovens? Maybe I misremember.

Glad you're OK.
Click to expand...

well, i have pyrex pots for boiling and stew and all kinds of stuff... so yeah, burners, even direct flame okay. also the oven. perhaps it was just pining for the fjords.

and thanx!

bladite
 
Use epoxy. I like Gorilla Glue, but its gonna expand out of every crack for hours as it dries. Messy as hell.
 
A heat-gun is a lot less mess and trouble:D
I was doing hot bluing on small parts once using a pyrex pan and it broke just like yours. Dunno why. Uneven heat???
Epoxy is a better choice than Gorilla glue, I think. Don't use the 5 minute stuff though. The slow set stuff is stronger, and the extra set-up time is necessary - at least for me. Tape the blade, cap and bolster so you don't have a clean-up mess to deal with. And so you don't cut anything.
 
After all it's made from the pitch of trees, with sometimes a little blood thrown in as well as a little charcoal and I expect maybe some yak dung as well for the cohesiveness and no telling what else.:p ;)

You were very lucky you weren't burned badly and I'm really glad you're okay!!!!:thumbup:
I'm wondering if the Pyrex maybe caused a film to form over the water similar to what super heated water in a microwave does and then it explodes violently when moved or penetrated....

It's gonna be nigh impossible to close the horn back to where it will make a satisfactory handle.
If you have any talent at all or even potential talent I would carve a handle from the Oak you have. At least it will be solid and stable and you can finish it beautifully if you want or just wax it and let it be, sometimes the simplest way can be the most beautiful.:cool: :D
Brian is right, use the time extended epoxy or the accuglass that Dan is so fond of.
So far all the handles I've either made or restored have been reinstalled with the 30 minute epoxy. Brian is also spot on when he says tape everything!
I even tape the handle so as to not have to get the glue off later.
Before the epoxy sets up totally solid it can be trimmed carefully with a sharp knife and the tape removed. Then be patient and let it set for 24 hours even if it is 30 minute epoxy.
It doesn't really totally cure for the 24 hours.
 
Bill said unmentionable protein sources could not be ruled out as ingredients in the laha.




munk
 
Pyrex glass is only for ovens, not direct flame or heat from an electric ring. The problem is the expansion from the heat is not even, so it cracks.
 
Andrew Taylor said:
Pyrex glass is only for ovens, not direct flame or heat from an electric ring. The problem is the expansion from the heat is not even, so it cracks.
Click to expand...

Tell that to all the manufactures of glassware for laboratory work... a large proportion of that stuff is Pyrex...
 
Ewww, stinky laha. I use 2-ton clear epoxy on most of my projects.

I had a pyrex casserole dish lid asplode in my oven once. Little square pieces of glass went everywhere.
 
I'm willing to bet that the laboratory-grade glass is different than what we get for the consumer market.
 
Gorilla glue (or any of the urethanes) is no good for an application where you may need to fill a gap (such as around a stick tang on a knife). Yes, Gorilla glue expands like crazy, but the expanded foam doesn't actually have any structural strength. Epoxy, on the other had, excels at filling gaps, and if you know there's a lot of gap to fill, then you can improve the situation by incorporating some type of physical filler in addition to the resin and hardener.
 
Aardvark said:
I'm willing to bet that the laboratory-grade glass is different than what we get for the consumer market.
Click to expand...

Had that stuff explode too...

Pyrex is very good stuff, but it is NOT magic-glass.
 
Andrew Taylor said:
Pyrex glass is only for ovens, not direct flame or heat from an electric ring. The problem is the expansion from the heat is not even, so it cracks.
Click to expand...

tell that to dow/corning who makes my pyrex "pots and pans" - they're designed for microwave, and stove top, as well as oven. for real.

first one i've ever had break though. i've had lab glass break a lot.

bladite
 
Yvsa said:
After all it's made from the pitch of trees, with sometimes a little blood thrown in as well as a little charcoal and I expect maybe some yak dung as well for the cohesiveness and no telling what else.:p ;)

You were very lucky you weren't burned badly and I'm really glad you're okay!!!!:thumbup:
I'm wondering if the Pyrex maybe caused a film to form over the water similar to what super heated water in a microwave does and then it explodes violently when moved or penetrated....

It's gonna be nigh impossible to close the horn back to where it will make a satisfactory handle.
If you have any talent at all or even potential talent I would carve a handle from the Oak you have. At least it will be solid and stable and you can finish it beautifully if you want or just wax it and let it be, sometimes the simplest way can be the most beautiful.:cool: :D
Brian is right, use the time extended epoxy or the accuglass that Dan is so fond of.
So far all the handles I've either made or restored have been reinstalled with the 30 minute epoxy. Brian is also spot on when he says tape everything!
I even tape the handle so as to not have to get the glue off later.
Before the epoxy sets up totally solid it can be trimmed carefully with a sharp knife and the tape removed. Then be patient and let it set for 24 hours even if it is 30 minute epoxy.
It doesn't really totally cure for the 24 hours.
Click to expand...

mmmmm, dung! dung dung dung! a fun word that. DUNG!

apparently i have jaguar reflexes or something, when startled :> thanx for the good thoughts though, i was quite done with the handle removal, and the burner was off, and the water cooling, and it was all crackle and kersploding by itself. weird. could be just old.

i might just carve the oak. got myself the drill and some time and the wood. will have to look up this "woodchuck" thing. i have a friend that can resin stabalize the wood for me in a vacuum chamber, so it's even more spiffy, or i can use a lot of oil and time.

will probably use the epoxy one way or the other. i'm tempted to work on the horn as is and see what i can do. i have some fiberglass powder and various epoxies on hand - left overs from repairing a surf board :)

lots of options to fiddle with here :)

i wonder if the kamis would like to see some bird's eye maple? that neem wood shines up purty too :)

bladite
 
jamesraykenney said:
Tell that to all the manufactures of glassware for laboratory work... a large proportion of that stuff is Pyrex...
Click to expand...

But much thinner so the glass heats more evenly.
 
Andrew Taylor said:
You sure?

http://pyrex.pans.com/products/Pyrex_Clear_Oval_Roaster_4_Quart_42513.html

Product Attributes:

Care: Dishwasher Safe, Not For Stovetop

Clear Color
Glass Material
3.5 lbs. Shipping Weight
4 Quart Size
Click to expand...

pretty sure. the stuff i have is "pyrex visions"... i've googled some and find a number of horror stories from people not following the rules, and that fact that borosilicate glass ages and the next thing you know, boom.

http://www.discusscooking.com/forums/f89/stovetop-cooking-pyrex-visions-cookware-3174.html

the stuff is apparently designed for cooktop use, but sudden drastic changes, like adding a lot of cold liquids, or setting it down on metal, is bad... the bakeware probably shouldn't be used on stove-top though. the stuff i have, and have been using for years is DEFINITELY made for stove pot. pots and pans with handles, and a stew pot like thing. the salad bowls, definitely not for either, though microwaving is fine apparently.

i've been using mostly circulon though, and not the glass so much, except to boil water for pasta or warming up soup. mmmm. might be time to toss it. a shame. it's nice stuff. i'm also not exactly seeing this stuff for sale anymore. mmmmMmmmmm again.

bladite
 
Personally, always cut 'em off.
Reason being - dont want them any more..

Call me stupid, but saves the cookware:D

Bladite, you get some fresh air - o/k??
That brew could be mind altering..
 
Take the old glass pots out and shoot them. I love shooting glass. Theres a berm where we do the shooiting at my grandad's farm. I love bringing glass down there and shooting at it. We've made an arm that hangs out over it and we tie the bottles to it and swing them. Then shoot at them with a .22. With something that big it may even be fun to blow the hell outta it with a shotgun. Get a big ole 10 guage goose gun. Wear goggles though because pyrex tends to really fly a long way when you break it like that! Sounds like a lot of fun. Send the stuff to me and I'll do it for you.
 
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