Exotic skinner

D

Dmitry.M

Joined
Jun 13, 2006
Messages
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The blade is A2 tool steel, stock removal, HT by Paul Bos, 58HRC. It is 4-1/4" long and 1/4" thick near the bolster, tapered to the tip, flat ground.
Deep relief engraving.
Hidden tang, actualy it goes all the way through and is just 1/4" shorter than the wooden part of the handle.
The handle is made of Ebony and Mammoth Ivory with nice figure. I stabilized wood and ivory and than sealed the whole handle after assembly.
OAL is 9-1/4" tip to tip.
The sheath is on it's way.
Hope you like it.
Dmitry
 
Beautiful work, as usual...........

I took the liberty to brighten your pictures a bit and show your great attention to detail. :o

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SpearZ really hit the nail on the head there! So far out of most people's league I'm not sure you should be allowed to play!:D
Matt Doyle
 
Definitely not!

Very nice and I can tell it's god awful sharp.

Why did you opt for the 58 rc? The A2 runs in the low 60's as quenched, doesn't it?

Again, Lovely!

Fred
 
Thank you for the positive remark.
Fred, A2 steel has two peaks of maximum toughness. One is at 58HRC, the second at 60HRC. But it is PITA to sharpen the 60HRC blade for the user. And it is more brittle. So for real use I would personally prefer 54-56HRC. I am not a huge fan of super-duper hard steel, it is the result of my own experience. The A2 steel was chosen just because I do stock removal for now. If I would forge, I would not use it, carbon steel is forever.
 
Larry Harley commented at Batsons that Tai Goo was the one real life fine artist that he knew that had decided that knives were a cool thing to work with at some point in his career. i think that we might be able to ad another name to that short list:D Dmitry....If you are going to be at the Blade show, we need to introduce you to some of Don Hanson's magic W2 steel. You will go out and buy a forge and never go back to stock removal. Don leaves his at around 61 Rc and it is incredibly easy to sharpen. I'm not sure where mine is, but it is a least 59-60Rc when i temper at 475 and it has super fine grain so it takes a nasty, extremely tough edge.
 
Dmitry.M said:
Thank you for the positive remark.
Fred, A2 steel has two peaks of maximum toughness. One is at 58HRC, the second at 60HRC. But it is PITA to sharpen the 60HRC blade for the user. And it is more brittle. So for real use I would personally prefer 54-56HRC. I am not a huge fan of super-duper hard steel, it is the result of my own experience. The A2 steel was chosen just because I do stock removal for now. If I would forge, I would not use it, carbon steel is forever.
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That is sound reasoning. A blade is not of much use if you can't sharpen it.

Thanks for the response, Fred
 
jdm61 said:
we need to introduce you to some of Don Hanson's magic W2 steel. You will go out and buy a forge and never go back to stock removal.
Click to expand...

Thank you for this invitation, at least I cosider it as invitation. :rolleyes:
The difference between high alloy steel and carbon steel with the same HRC is pretty big. The main is the nature of their hardness. So I would agree, that some of the carbon steels are more easy to sharpen than alloy steels.
Again. I would prefer carbon steel if I would forge. For now I can not make it. I rent small apartment close to downtown. City engineer will be happy to cut my balls off after neibours complains. Wich I beleave will be immidiate :D if I'll try to forge.

Fred: you are welcome.
 
Dmitry,

I assume you use a nitric acid etch for your patterns? Or do you do hand engraving? Just curious...and beautiful work either way!
 
TekSec said:
Dmitry,

I assume you use a nitric acid etch for your patterns?
Click to expand...

For the first knife I showed here I used electroetching, just because I did not have ANY tools. Since I got some tools I do hand engraving. No GRS or other machines, Just hand and in some cases with the chasing hammer. I also use my own drawings for the engravings. If I write "deep relief" it means the design is sculpted in 3D, not just dark cuts and bright flats. If I write "flat engraving" - that means dark cuts and brigt flats or it could be "bright cut" as on juwerly.
 
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