Very well done. I really like the warmth in this shot and my eyes are immediately drawn to the knife.:thumbup:
You should be quite proud of yourself, John. That is an excellent shot.
If you remember the exposure used with this shot, I'd try to duplicate the shot with a couple of changes.
1. Set your shutter speed one stop faster (while keeping the aperture the same and the lighting the same). See if this helps with the highlights on the blade.
If you can meter on the blade, that should get you in the ballpark (as far as the correct exposure is concerned). Some cameras will let you meter without auto-focusing (1/2 press on the shutter button). Take note of those settings (when metering on the blade). If your camera doesn't have such a feature, here's a trick.
Set the camera to auto-focus and whichever mode you wish. With the same lighting (as above) focus/meter on the blade and take note of the settings that the camera's algorithms is suggesting. Take a few shots as tests to see how they're turning out. If you like the results (concentrating on the correct exposure for the blade and - to a somewhat lesser degree - the handle of the knife) go to manual mode and dial in those settings. Then compose your shot, focus so the blade is nice and sharp, then take the shots. Take multiple shots - later you can toss out those shots that aren't quite as good.
2. I'd move the pistol back slightly, or take the shot from a slightly lower angle. Either action will help place the pistol further away in the photo - which draws even more attention to the knife. You could bring the knife slightly closer too.
A couple of other things for your consideration...
Gimp is a software program (free) that can be used to work on photographs. I have not used it in years, but there are a lot of people (heavy into photography) that do use it for all of their work. It has a learning curve, as does any other program, but the price is fantastic (free).
It's important, in digital photography, to expose for the highlights. Once blown out, they cannot be recovered by software. I don't worry (myself) about blown highlights if those highlights don't matter in the story I'm attempting to tell. I do worry about the highlights if they're vital to the story/subject.
You expose for the highlights by metering off of the brightest part of your subject. Being able to separate metering and focusing is a big help in doing this, but there are some tricks to get around that.
One is to focus/meter on the subject and then (while holding the shutter button halfway down) recompose the shot to your liking.
Another is bracketing - a lot of cameras do have this feature. It basically takes 3 (or more) shots - one according to the meter (and algorithms) built in the camera, one that is under-exposed and one that is over-exposed. This can help you find the correct exposure fairly quickly.
It helps if you use a tripod or some stable platform for your camera. When using a tripod, it helps if you use the timer function on your camera.
As for the white balance, I think the colors are excellent. My monitor is calibrated, so I am assuming that I am seeing the correct colors. Bear in mind the fact that I almost always prefer "warmer" shots.