Experimentation

BaliLover

BaliLover

Joined
Oct 25, 2000
Messages
1,350
Tonight I was bored and decided to attempt to make a bali handle. I went to home depot, only to find they didn't have and SS bar stock. I did the next best thing (maybe not best but easiest) I bought Aluminum Bar stock. I also picked up a couple of files, some rod, and sand paper. I went home and began filing down the aluminum to get it the right size. I quickly discovered that hand filing the width was a mistake but I don't have a saw to split the bar stock in half at the moment so I set that project aside.

Then I picked up my 42 and flipped it a few times and realized that I didn't like how square the spine was. On spur of the moment instinct I grabbed my 8" Flat Bastard file and went to work. I know there are a few people that would kill me for taking a file to a 42 since they can't even get one. Well, 20 minutes later and after using a finer file for finish work, I have a more rounded spine up until the false edge. I got it even on both sides and it looks and feels much better. The area I filed looks like chrome compared to the rest of the blade and twinkles in the light.

Now I just need to find a way to split my bar stock in half and go to work on the handle job. I still need to find a heavy insert material to make up for the lack of weight in the handles.

M
 
I have noticed more recently that the spine of my 42's (plural) tends to hurt after several minutes of manipulation. I think your onto something...the home remedy to the "spinal tap"!

Think I'll try it!

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Sabo 29
"Catch you on the flip side"!
 
Is it a lot more comfortable to flip? I've been thinking about doing that to my 42 also. That flat spine isn't exactly the best feeling when it's bouncing off you index finger. Can you get a picture of it for us? It would be nice to see how far down you took it.

Steve
 
I agree with the "Bronx"! A pic would be nice.
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Sabo 29
"Catch you on the flip side"!
 
That rather square spine goes get annoying. More than one of my 42s has had a visit from Mr. Dremel.



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Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.balisongcollector.com
 
As of now, I only took a little bit off, enough to round out the edges. I may take some time tommorow and attempt to make it totally rounded like a rod. It is MUCH MUCH more comfortable.

I have to say, a dremel makes things faster but in my opinion it does not create a clean looking job (At least mine never did). I prefer to do everything I can by hand, it gives my work a very personalized feeling and helps bond me to it. It is very inefficient time wise but it brings me pride.

A question for everyone with a 42: Right where the spine of the blade gets skinny for the false edge, does it seem like its a little pointy on both sides? Mine did so I smoothed those down too.

I hope this hasn't voided my life sharp warranty cause I need to send it in to replace the torx screw for the latch. I asked Benchmade to send me one and twice I received the pivot pin screw.
 
What kind of bit is Mr. Dremel most effective with?

Thanks in advance!
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Sabo 29
"Catch you on the flip side"!
 
I did a custom job on my 42 this week. I took the knife apart and re-contoured the handles to give them a machined look rather then cast look. The holes in the handles looked as if they were bleeding into the flat edges. about an hours work on a high quality belt sander and a lot of coolent produced a very clean and straight surface. My handles now have a nice contour and the holes are crisp in appearance. While I had the knife apart I polished the handles and blade. What a difference a little hand work can do to this knife. My 42 now has a custom look to it that makes a unmodified 42 look fat. If I can figure out my photo account I'll post photos of my custom bowie and my 42.
 
Yes I agree BM... how did you take your 42 appart?

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Sabo 29
"Catch you on the flip side"!
 
The 42 is much easier to take apart then I thuoght. First I removed the tork screws, then I used a small diameter steel pin (smaller then the tork screw) to press the pin out.I used a Bridgeport mill as a press, and supported the handles on a base block with a hole in it to allow the pin to be pushed out and fall through. The smaller then screw size pin I used pushed on the bottom of the pressed in pin as not to damage the threads. This could also be acomplished with a small diameter punch and a base block with a hole to support the handles. A little tapping with a hammer would produce the same resaults. There are 4 steel washers in the handle, one on each side of the blade, be aware of there location and make sure you don't loose them. When reassembling the knife you can start the pivot pin in the handle just far enough through one side and set the first washer in place with the blade then push the pivot pin through the blade far enough to slip the other washer in place. This is the hard part of the whole project and takes alittle care not to damage any of the parts or the handles when pushin the pins back in. I made a diagram of the knife before I took it apart so I would reassemble the pins from the same sides they came out of. This knife is dying for some custom work and is easy to work on. Try taking apart the latch first to see how the pin system works, The pivot pins are the same only with the washers. take care not to loose any parts and good luck. Take a look at Chuck G.'s site, he has a good drawing of the parts.


 
Edan, I'm guessing you used the lever that raises and lowers the cutter (my milling machine terminology is lacking) to press the pins out? How much pressure did you have to apply? Or did you keep that stationary and raise the table? As far as putting the pins back in, are they as tight as they were originally? Sorry for all the questions, but you just got me curious.

Steve
 
Steve,
Yes i'm using the spindle handle as the press.(using the quill) I was suprised that a lot of pressure was not needed to push the pins out. When putting the knife back together I pushed the pins in untill they were seated in the counter bores. Don't use so much force that the handles will bend. After installing the tork screws I flipped the knife a bit and then re-adjusted the screws. Use caution and take your time and most important keep track of the washers and don't damage the screws or threads in the pins. After the knife was put back together and I was happy with the fit I lock-tited the scews back in place. (lock-tite will release with a liitle heat, Bic lighter will work fine.)
 
Steve,
BTW, the pins were as tight going back in as they were going out. I've been in the trades for 28 years and I feel confident the taking the 42 apart will not damage any components on this knife. This knife was made for a life-time of use and taking it apart will not harm it. It's the easy way to polish or customize or do whatever you want to the knife.
 
Cool, next you just need to find a maker who'll make a blade for the 42 so you can interchange them
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Cameron

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"Look deep, deep inside and you will find a place of anger, vengeance, and brutality. Go there. It is your last hope to conquer the truly wicked."
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A few of my balisongs
My Photopoint album
 
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