Exploded views of some Buck knives. Assembly, Schematic, How there made.

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I had an idea from the great photos of the insides of the Stumps 110 special. Anyone have any "inside" photos of the workings of any Buck knives, lets have a thread. I know some of you 'modifiers' should have a few. BUT, I am going to practice what I preach and start a new thread. I have titled the thread so someone doing a search might be able to grab the tread from out of the air of history. Explain what you are showing. I will start. Stumps can inject his photo of the 110 if he wants. 300Bucks

How blades are attached in Model 300s. Bolsters are sliced thru the blade pins.

Model 301, first model made by Schrade under contract by Buck. Made using hidden bolster pin method. 'Swinden Key'.


Here is a photo of the side of the Schrade made Buck, the blades were put on the key pin, then both 'rivet like heads' were formed and then the heads slipped into the liner keyhole. This way no bolster pins show. But, they had issues with the strength of the brass.


Next in line is the method Camillus made Buck 300's, using the thru the bolster pin method. You can see how the pin's were flared at the ends to hold in place. This is why if you drive out a pin (and enlarge the bolster holes), you have to have a heck of a time getting the new pin to fill the bolster hole to the edge.


The Buck factory made method using three springs. Top to bottom, left to right. Blade, pin, blade, spring. Spring, pin, spring. Blade, pin, blade, spring. As you can see in the middle, the spring takes up the full space on this end, the end with no blade.


Finally for my part, this is a photo inside the modern Buck 300, the SS liner has funnel like holes that plastic pins formed with the knife scale go thru and then are pressed and melted to be flat to hold the scale to the liner.

Come on know some of you at least have some production Model 100 fixed blade blade's you can show how the handle scales are attached.
 
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Good idea, 300.

Here is my contribution. Before the Two Dot model, the 110 could be modified to act as a "gravity" knife. Since the radius of the tang was constant, pressure by the lockbar didn't increase as the blade opened. Beginning with the Two Dot models, the tang was elongated so that the radius from the pivot increased as the blade opened. This resulted in more pressure by the lockbar against the blade.

I am not sure why this is not showing thumbnail photos but click on the attachment links to see the photos.

View attachment 526212View attachment 526213
 
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nice picts there 300
you always seem to have good picts..
we will see you at the blade show !
 
Here is a video that I learned more about the Swinden key.
MuskratMan repairs it by doing away with the Swinden key and adding a bolster pin.
I have four of the old Buck 301s that used the Swinden key design, so I wanted to learn a little more about it.
This was all I could find;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X44CxU2wtOk
 
I had an idea from the great photos of the insides of the Stumps 110 special. Anyone have any "inside" photos of the workings of any Buck knives, lets have a thread. I know some of you 'modifiers' should have a few. BUT, I am going to practice what I preach and start a new thread. I have titled the thread so someone doing a search might be able to grab the tread from out of the air of history. Explain what you are showing. I will start. Stumps can inject his photo of the 110 if he wants. 300Bucks

How blades are attached in Model 300s. Bolsters are sliced thru the blade pins.

Model 301, first model made by Schrade under contract by Buck. Made using hidden bolster pin method. 'Swinden Key'.


Here is a photo of the side of the Schrade made Buck, the blades were put on the key pin, then both 'rivet like heads' were formed and then the heads slipped into the liner keyhole. This way no bolster pins show. But, they had issues with the strength of the brass.


Next in line is the method Camillus made Buck 300's, using the thru the bolster pin method. You can see how the pin's were flared at the ends to hold in place. This is why if you drive out a pin (and enlarge the bolster holes), you have to have a heck of a time getting the new pin to fill the bolster hole to the edge.


The Buck factory made method using three springs. Top to bottom, left to right. Blade, pin, blade, spring. Spring, pin, spring. Blade, pin, blade, spring. As you can see in the middle, the spring takes up the full space on this end, the end with no blade.


Finally for my part, this is a photo inside the modern Buck 300, the SS liner has funnel like holes that plastic pins formed with the knife scale go thru and then are pressed and melted to be flat to hold the scale to the liner.

Come on know some of you at least have some production Model 100 fixed blade blade's you can show how the handle scales are attached.

Thank you for putting this up.

I was asking my husband about the 'insides' of some knives and he was explaining them to me a bit.

I did not want my new Buck knives taken apart or some older ones that we have so this gives me some understanding about how they are made.

Thanks again.

Cate
 
Come on now, I know some of you have some pictures of different models that you have either taken apart or some part has popped off of. Lets see some photos. 300
 
Maybe this goes along with this thread...
I don't remember now why I pulled the scales off of this one. But when I did I didn't like what I saw under them so I used some elbow grease and brasso. and I probably coated the handles with tru-oil

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