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- Dec 31, 2010
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Found an old set of Case Scissors at my great aunt's house. THey are extremely dull and would like to sharpen them. Any tips on ways I can make them cut paper in an acceptable way? Thanks.
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Extemely Dull Scissors
- Thread starter linuxology
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- Jun 4, 2010
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Disassemble and sharpen on a stone(s). Use a Sharpie. Its fairly easy.
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- Sep 23, 2014
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Hi,
Before stones I would try cutting up some aluminum foil,
curious to see how it would work on extremely dull scissors
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- Dec 31, 2010
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- 1,110
never sharpened scissors and that is why i was asking. ok will hit the edges and i do have a norton. Thanks!
find a you ube video on scissor sharpening and watch it. I use kai scissors at work and as rippers more than scissors. around 400 to 600 grit is what I use. as they seem to loose the sharpness I touch them up on a 1200 dmt and they last a long time. 400 is good for very dull and the 600 improves it. the 1200 is just when the need a touchup.i use them daily and once a year they need a good sharpening, maybe twice on the 1200 in a year.
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If you can get them apart, it helps to use a polishing stone on the inside face, from the tip all the way down to the screw hole. Then use the medium stone on the edge. If they don't come apart, just open as wide as possible and sharpen to a medium finish.
I have had some success cutting sandpaper to refresh a really dull scissors before, but the results are not quite what I would call "sharpening".
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- Apr 12, 2009
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I've 'sharpened' a couple pairs of utility scissors (Fiskars, etc) using either a SiC or AlOx stone on the bevelled edges of each half (not the inside faces). All were riveted together, so disassembly wasn't an option. Just clamped the scissors into a hobby vise with one edge facing UP, and ran the stone down the bevelled edge toward the tip. Tried a variety of other things, like a mill bastard file and diamond hones.
Some scissors' blades are considerably harder or softer than others, so YMMV. For example, a small triangular file worked very fast on my little Leatherman Micra's scissors, but a file hasn't been as effective on the utility scissors, which are a bit harder and don't file as easily. I think the SiC or AlOx stone is likely the most useful, utilizing the coarse side of the stone to reset the edge, then refining with the fine side. Cosmetically not so perfect, but they cut likely better than when they were new. I 'test' the cutting on fabric, paper and individual 'fluff' fibers from cotton swabs, or lint from blankets, etc. If the edge isn't real crisp, those tiny fibers just won't cut easily, if at all.
I'd completely avoid any heavy grinding on the inside (mating) faces of scissor blades, as any new variation or bumps/waves in the grind can create permanent open gaps between the mating faces, after which they'll cease to cut anything at all. It's OK to burnish them for burr removal, but make sure to keep the stone as fine-grit as possible. I used either / both of a black hard Arkansas pocket stone, or a Spyderco ceramic that I'd lapped to something like a UF finish or finer. It polishes, but won't be aggressive enough to remove a significant amount of steel from the mating faces of the scissor blades. Keep the stone fully flush to the inside face, so the apex doesn't end up faceted toward the inside or rounded off (which again, will make the scissors cease to function as a cutting tool).
David
Some scissors' blades are considerably harder or softer than others, so YMMV. For example, a small triangular file worked very fast on my little Leatherman Micra's scissors, but a file hasn't been as effective on the utility scissors, which are a bit harder and don't file as easily. I think the SiC or AlOx stone is likely the most useful, utilizing the coarse side of the stone to reset the edge, then refining with the fine side. Cosmetically not so perfect, but they cut likely better than when they were new. I 'test' the cutting on fabric, paper and individual 'fluff' fibers from cotton swabs, or lint from blankets, etc. If the edge isn't real crisp, those tiny fibers just won't cut easily, if at all.
I'd completely avoid any heavy grinding on the inside (mating) faces of scissor blades, as any new variation or bumps/waves in the grind can create permanent open gaps between the mating faces, after which they'll cease to cut anything at all. It's OK to burnish them for burr removal, but make sure to keep the stone as fine-grit as possible. I used either / both of a black hard Arkansas pocket stone, or a Spyderco ceramic that I'd lapped to something like a UF finish or finer. It polishes, but won't be aggressive enough to remove a significant amount of steel from the mating faces of the scissor blades. Keep the stone fully flush to the inside face, so the apex doesn't end up faceted toward the inside or rounded off (which again, will make the scissors cease to function as a cutting tool).
David
Last edited:
yup!!!
- Joined
- Nov 28, 2012
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- 8,802
I use the Sharpmaker triangle stones freehand. I only sharpen the beveled edge, not the flat back of the blade Works great on all scissors I have tried them on. I just open the scissors all the way and hold the stone in one hand and the scissors in the other.