Exterior House Paint?

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Sep 15, 1999
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I'm getting ready to paint the house. And suggestions on paint? I'm in humid Pennsylvania and have a real problem with mildew. (Lots of trees around the house.)

Also, any advantage to using a brush and rollers instead of a sprayer?

Any other suggestions?

Scott
 
Have the same problem with humidity and mildew. After scrubbing all the old paint with a solution of TSP and clorox solution, makeing repairs with painters putty it was finally time to paint. I tried Ace brand stain blocker at 12.00 a gallon and was advised to try Big Lots primer and paints. They worked extremely well and cut the cost of what could have been a big investment in name brand paint. Geno said it needed a match instead of a paint job but hey, maybe in a few years I might agree to that.Good luck and it's a job but it's worth it all, by the way, Big Lots primer worked better than the Ace band hands down. Cavelady
 
doomonyou said:
Two Words, Vinyl Siding! :D

Exactly.

If you insist on painting, use the Wal Mart house brand. It received good ratings a few years ago, and I have a neighbor who swears by it. And it's cheap!

The house still looks good after 7 years!
 
I paint houses for a living, so perhaps my advice will be helpful.

Prep: Most important part of the process. You could spend fifty bucks a gallon for top-flight paint, but if your prep job is poor you're pissing your money away. Remove ALL loose paint, dirt, cobwebs, mildew, bird poop, etc etc. Only apply primer or paint to a clean, dry surface. Of course, you'll need to pressure wash the house before you begin scraping. Use Jomax while pressure washing- it should help with the mildew. Any remaining mildew or algae can be scrubbed by hand with a bleach/liquid laundry detergent solution. I find that more than 25% bleach has an adverse effect on plants. You'll only need an ounce or two of the detergent per gallon of solution, and be sure to rinse it completely off your siding. Patch holes with wood filler and fill in narrow cracks with siliconized latex caulk (NOT silicon caulk, which is unpaintable). Be sure to seal all the gaps around door and window trim. Rotting wood is best replaced, but Bondo will provide a temporary fix provided the board hasn't rotted through.

Vinyl siding: Ugh.

Paint: Buy the best paint you can afford. Cheap paint or stain is cheap for a reason. I'm most familiar with Sherwin Williams, but most of the major paint manufacturers make a fine product. If you are changing colors, know that two coats may be needed to provide a uniform finish. Use a quality primer as well. Cheap, fast-drying primers tend to be more brittle and hence more prone to failure. I prefer Sherwin Williams A-100, but again it's what I'm used to. If you are painting your house a dark color, have the primer tinted at the paint store.

Spray vs. brush and roll: If you've never used a sprayer before, you'll be in for an interesting time. If you're a novice, spraying your house will be more expensive and frustrating than just rolling. You'll have to mask off all your windows, doors, and anything else you don't want overspray on. You'll need to wear a respirator and eye protection. I'd recommend brush and roll. You'll get better film build (ie thickness) with rollers than with a sprayer, and make less of a mess in the process. You'll spend less money on supplies, too. Around here a professional sprayer ($900-1200 new) rents for $60.00 a day. $60.00 will buy a lot of gear for brushing and rolling. Paint out of a 5-gallon bucket rather than a tray- you wont have to refill the damn tray every five minutes.

To keep the mildew at bay, plan on pressure washing your house with Jomax or similar once a year. To preserve the wood, plan on painting again in ten years at the latest.

Congratulations on doing the work yourself. Painting isn't rocket science, but painting well requires skill and patience. If I can help you in any way, please feel free to post questions or e-mail me.

Jeremy
 
Vinyl siding. I've had mine for over twenty years . I do get just a little mildew on the back [north side] of the house which I easily remove with water and a broom. You might give serious thought to removing some trees .They can cause many problems ;mildew,squirrels,branches etc, and even the whole tree crashing on the house.
 
I'm really heartened to see Jeremy posting about using a roller on exterior siding. It's an excellent idea that should be done more often but a foolish stigma still exists amongst many old school painters. If you paint a small section at a time, say 3'x4', with a 3/4" nap roller then go back and immediately brush it out, the painting will go so much faster and be easier on your wrists and shoulders.

Also, I highly recommend those mini red handled rollers with the FABRIC refills. Do not use the foam refills as they are almost completely useless. I use these mini rollers all the time for spot priming with oil based products.

As far as paint brands, I recommend Benjamin Moore or Sherwin Wms for exterior. Cabot or Sikkens for stain products.
 
painted my parents house with a Wagner airless sprayer, the work goes quickly, but so does the paint. you also need decent control of distance and speed to get good coverage without runs. Painting ~dozen vehicles growing up helped (left most of my holidays and runs on the sheetmetal and not the wood :D)
 
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