Extra-Coarse stones

B

Buck268

Joined
Nov 5, 2006
Messages
1,864
I'm been looking around at some coarse stones for reprofiling and such, and right now the top of my list is the 220 grit DMT extra-fine. Does anybody know of a faster cutting stone than this? How fast and aggressively does it cut?
 
DMT's D8XX cuts faster than my Harbor Freight sander armed with a 50 grit aluminum oxide belt (and the edge is flatter and less heated, too).
 
No way! Our video camera fits full VHS cassettes and our interweb service is dial-up. Besides, I don't want to know anyone who wants to watch me hunched over a stone-holder like an amphetamine-crazed otter.

Glesser, Fikes, Koster, Dale, Sugai, Lee, Stanley, and Carter all make sharpening videos. If it can't be learned from the Magnificent Seven, then it should be learned from QuietOned, Nosmo, MeDoctor, Clark, Yuzuha, HoB, Gingrich, cbwx34, Cheshareck, db, Louisiana Cook, D_R_Sharpening, Stamp, AlvinJ, Hossom, Harvey, Talmadge, TheTourist, KnifeOutlet, OwenM, and Fulloflead*. After that, there are maybe 300 people online right now who have a better handle on this stuff than me. I'll just push DMT's D8XX for major reprofiling followed by whichever abrasives one has on hand.

*Order arranged completely arbitrarily. Only Jerry Hossom and Cliff Stamp were intentionally separated from each other.
 
Yeah Thom make a video! I don't have a video camera, or the belt sander for comparison, but I can firmly say the D8XX cuts MUCH faster than the DMT X coarse.

Mike
 
I've heard that the Razor edge coarse stone, and the Japanese pink brick water stone, also removes alot of steel very quic. Another lower cost option is the $10 ish black silicon carbide stones found at most any hardware store. With those choices given I'd say the DMT D8xxc is my favorite by alot, but I've only used the Razors Edge stone a few times and never used the pink brick.
 
I think I'm gonna order some ceramic belts for the HF to see how they cut. I know aluminum oxide paper always wears out much, much faster than wet/dry for every other work I've done with them.
 
I'm not sure that's a good idea Hardheart. Ceramic belts are normally only available in coarse grits and those eat steel pretty quickly. Generally speaking, aluminum oxide belts will last a lot longer than the same on paper.


Thanks Thom. :D
 
ive got eze lap diamond hones in course... medium... fine and superfine which are great but when i have to rebevel... i have the DMT D8XX extra extra course diamond hone which literally rips the steel off in huge gashes. youve just got to be careful how fine your blade is because you will have to remove these gashes once youve set your bevel angle.
Its great tho because it never dips out like a worn stone or wears down and tears like grit paper.
I just work thru my different diamone hones and then strop on leather with chromium oxide.
 
Try Trizact belts. Most 1X30 belts are made for sanding wood. They will not last on metal.
Bill
 
Cliff Stamp said:
I want to confirm specifically that you have the belt sander turned on.
Click to expand...

LOL! That might explain it! I have several other questions, though:

Is the belt new or worn?

Is the belt open-coat (made for wood) or closed-coat (made for metal)?

Does your machine stall if you press the blade to the belt with any force?

Are you so afraid you'll overheat the blade you don't dare press it to the belt with any force?
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Try Trizact belts. Most 1X30 belts are made for sanding wood. They will not last on metal.
Click to expand...

I have some Trizacts, A100 through A6. The D8XX is faster.

Cougar Allen said:
LOL! That might explain it! I have several other questions, though:

Is the belt new or worn?

Is the belt open-coat (made for wood) or closed-coat (made for metal)?

Does your machine stall if you press the blade to the belt with any force?

Are you so afraid you'll overheat the blade you don't dare press it to the belt with any force?
Click to expand...

Open coat. Darnit! :grumpy: Back to the drawing board maybe. But I do use new belts when the old ones slow or don't spark as much.

I have stalled my sander by pressing hard. Burnt out the first one making a knife from a saw blade. Generally, I don't press hard because it skips on the platen or rounds the edge when I don't use the platen.

Generally not afraid of overheating the blades as most are stainless, high speed steel, or very thick, but the rounding encountered defeats the whole purpose.

Going to get some closed-coat belts and try again. (slinking off and feeling dumb...)
 
Try the Blue Zirconia from Lee Valley. They cut well and seem to hold up well. They have a 40x if you're brave.............. :)
 
thombrogan said:
Generally, I don't press hard because it skips on the platen or rounds the edge when I don't use the platen.
Click to expand...

these are the big ones. The chatter is horrible, and you only want to convex so much. These things are cheaply made. I quickly found out a leather belt doesn't fit, unfortunately screwing up the belt.

maybe when I manage to build a 2 x 72.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top