Eze Lap Dimond Sharpener's

B

bartblade

Joined
Nov 4, 2002
Messages
344
Dale here and i just bought an EZE LAP DIMOND STONE.

I had one before and it seemed to work very well, but it wore out very fast on me!

I have gone to the web site and it says nothing of lubercation! I use only water on the first stone.

Am i doing anything wrong do i need to use oil or what????

Also I would like to here some comments on the quality of these dimond stones if anyone has had expeirience withe them!!



thanks,DALE
 
I have an extra fine one that was given to me. I use it for the final blade edge. All your suppoed to use on it is water. Maybe try rinsing it off after you use it, it might get cloged. I don't think that the diamonds can wear out?
 
I have found that the Ezelap diamond stones work as well or even better than the DMT stones. Cheaper too.
 
Diamond stones work both dry or with a little water. I use mine dry. They tend to loose their original sharp cutting action fairly quickly and then stabilize to a lesser grit which in my experience has been long lasting. I have a Ezelap form 10 years ago. Try cleaning the one you have with soapy water and a brush. If you want more cutting action then order a coarser grit. It too will wear down but the cutting action is still there just to a lesser degree then it was out of the box.
 
I have had the small pocket sharpener with out the groove for about 18 years. It still cuts and produces a fine edge. It is a fine grit and I do not put anything on it, just rub the dust of on a piece of cloth (usually the pant leg) and hit it again. Usually about 4 to 6 strokes per side will put the edge back.
 
i thought dimonds are supposed to last forever, so why is it the coarseness wear down so quickly?
 
I think that the coating of the steel with the diamonds in it, has some extra that will stick up a little higher than the rest and after using it for a while, they are evened out and cut uniformly. I never did like to break one in and when they came out with the credit card size, I loaned it to a friend (almost didn't get it back) to "use a while" :).
It really isn't the coarseness, it is just a few sticking out too far and digging in a little deeper for a while.
 
So, Ray what you are saying is that what we want is to wear the sharpener inn? And when done so this wore in surface is what we pay for.


Dale
 
My shapener is still doing a great job of touching up the edge. When I touch up the blade, I raise the back of the blade up just a "little more" than when I put the original edge on. This will cause the edge bevel to have a double angel. This will make it a lot easier to sharpen and when the touch up bevel starts to be as wide as the profile bevel, it is time to reprofile the edge. This also makes the blade last a lot longer and has very little effect on the cutting peformance of the blade. It also makes it a lot easier and faster to touch up the blade. A fine diamond will put an extremely fine edge on it and it will cut very well. To refine it some, just stroke it on some leather for a bit. The carbon steel knives will be able to have a slightly thinner edge and will get extremely sharp with the strope. I hope I haven't confused you too much but this is what I have been doing for many years and it works for me.
 
I just purchased some Eze Lap diamond hones (1" x 6") in various grits for use in my Edge Pro (Models 41M, 41F, & 41SF). They fit just fine. The hones have a groove for fish hooks, which seems to cause no problem with knives.

These were purchased for use on some blades that were in very bad condition. I wanted something that would cut quickly without ruining my waterstones. I couldn't give an opinion on durability yet, but they seem to cut evenly and aggressively.

For blades in reasonable condition, I will stick with the waterstones that are available from Edge Pro.

Mike
 
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