Eze Sharp Impressions

Joined
Mar 12, 2006
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246
I ordered an Ezesharp a few weeks ago and having finished my summer classes, I finally have some time to fiddle with it and post some impressions.
Here is the rig mounted to the "workbench".
ezesharpmountqj7.jpg


I tried it out on some chinese junk kitchen knives to get familiar with things before I started with my good knives.

They are:
Benchmade Nimravus M2
Buck Akonua
Kai chefs knife
Microtech socom elite auto
Kershaw Leek
thesubjectsoe1.jpg


I only have one bench stone, a norton 4000/8000 grit waterstone. As others have mentioned it is a bit of a pain to get the stones mounted in the frames correctly. I used the guide rods as spacers and a few pennies under the stone to fine tune the alignment with the frame. The file attachment fit all my files fine but i wanted to use my fine/extrafine DMT diafold in it so I filed out the inside of the attachment about 1.5 mm and it fits fine now.

All edges were created with the 4000 grit side then polished with the 8000. They had all been maintained freehand on the same stone prior to this sharpening on the ezesharp. Only the Socom and the Kai was hair shaving sharp. When sharpening the leek by hand i found that i could get it to just start shaving and when i took it back to the stone to get it a little bit sharper, it would end up dulling the edge. However, it was nicely convex and retained its edge fairly well. The Kai on the other hand was sharp when new but after maintaining it freehand on the waterstone it is now scary sharp. It cuts bread and tomatoes better than any of my serrated knives and meats and vegetables practically cut themselves. My GF has put a few chips in the edge but they are small and dont effect performance any.

Mounting the blades in the flipover requires loosening both the hex screws and the philips screws till the plates seperate then tightening the philips screws first followed by the hex screws. I covered all blades (except the leek) with clear tape to protect them from scratches. The leek experienced a slight increase in reflectivity where it contacted the blade holder.

The sharpening experience is as easy as pie. Pick an angle and go. For the Akonua I chose a 15/25 degree edge. It started off with a chopping edge on it. I set the primary with the diafold which was a bit tedious as the stroke length was only about 2 inches long. After about a half an hour between the diafold and the norton, the akonua can shave hair better than my mach 3 and cuts beef and chicken like butter. Veggies require a slicing action but that is simply due to the curve of the blade. However, the half inch of edge closest to the handle remains largely untouched. In order to sharpen the tip of the knife a rolling motion of the stone is required to move the contact area evenly across the edge but at the heel of the edge this is impossible. Thinking this was most likely user error I moved on.

The stone was flattened on both sides using 320 grit wet/dry paper on a window pane. This took quite some time as it turned out that the 4000 grit side was quite dished.

Next up, the nimravus. This one got a 20 degree edge so that i could compare the two and see what i liked best. The M2 sharpened as easily as the akonua and took about a half an hour as well. Again the heel of the edge remained largely untouched. I attempted to roll the stone to the heel the same way i rolled it to the tip. This changed the sharpening angle a bit but did help to maintain contact with the edge. Again, hair shaving sharp. Meats? like butter, Veggies? well onion slices were paper thin but thicken a bit as the thickness of the blade effects cutting angle. Attention to technique prevented this.

The leek got a 15 degree ( i think, maybe ten?) and exhibited the same characteristic unsharpened heel but the edge is sweet. I would say this might be too sharp for a pocket knife that i find myself handing to people often. Again I tried to roll the stone to the heel and met with limited success. Oh yeah, a note about blade length. When mounting the blade i inserted only the top flat sections into the jaws, this allowed me to sharpen all the way to the tip without hitting the clamp.

The socom was aborted early on as i could not get it mounted in such a way that the stone could reach all the way to the tip. but again exhibited the lack of heel contact.

Onto the Kai. This knife was as sharp as i could desire before i got the ezesharp. After see how well this thing cut and how relatively poorly my other knives cut i was motivated to research jigs like the ezesharp and edgepro in the first place. The knife mounted into the clamp just fine. I could even reach all the way to the heel without and trouble because there is nothing blocking the stone from traveling far enough. I started by matching the edge i had put on the knife by hand. It turned out to be ten degrees. I used only the 8000 grit side and polised like normal. After some time i checked the edge. Oddly enough it was less sharp than when i started?! I remarked the edge with a sharpie flipped the stone to the 4000 grit side. Worked it a bit to make sure it was flat and met evenly, it did. Checked the edge. definately not shaving. Back to the 8000 for a polish. Just couldnt get the edge back to where it was. It would pop a hair or two but definately not mowing it down. I havent used it in the kitchen since. I'll update after tonights dinner.

It seems that the 3 inch width of the norton waterstone might be excessive and hinder the sharpening of knives that do not allow full travel past the heel. Guess thats why edge pros have such slim stones.


Comments, suggestions, anecdotes, appreciated. I'll be testing the edges as objectively as i can over the next few days and posting my findings here.

I tried taking edge pictures but i cant get them to turn out nearly as well as other on this forum. I'll Keep trying if anyone cares.
 
If you're using a digicam, look for a "macro" or close-up setting, often indicated by a flower icon.
 
Its an olympus d-490. A bit aged and the lense has some scuffs. I used to use a 10x loupe to take macro shots. I was able to get one shot before the batteries died. Need to get myself a new NiMH charger.

akonuaedgeof6.jpg
 
My Diasharp is a 6 inch, so I cut a block of hardwood (red oak) to the same size as the waterstones. (I have norton 220/1000 and 4000/8000)

I superglued trhe Diasharp coarse to the oak and traced the outline of the plate on the "bare wood:" side. I now have a coarse Diasharp to use with the EZE sharp as well as the waterstones. My next project will probably be an 8 inch XX coarse Diasharp glued to a piece of oak. that should be AWESOME for re-profiling. (On the other hand, I might get a belt sander instead.:D )

BTW, I have had trouble getting the same angle on both sides with the flipover. Have you experienced this?
I solved the problem by leaving the flipover in the same position and turning the knife over. It works, but it's a P.I.T.A.

BTW, if you lap your waterstones with a Diasharp under running water, it's very fast and easy.:)
 
Wow, that is one polished bevel.

Thanks for showcasing this one. This setup does look complicated. I really don't understand the description. Does it clamp flat grinds and saber grinds equally well? So what the limits to the sizes of blades it can do? Why are you unable to sharpen some of them?

Mounting the blades in the flipover requires loosening both the hex screws and the philips screws till the plates seperate then tightening the philips screws first followed by the hex screws.
Does this mean you need tools to mount, unmount the blade, and to change sides?

As for photograhing it, you can also try putting both the camera and the knife down on solid surface and orientate them and bring them to the same level as requried. Use the "close-up" function and the timer function if you have one. That way you are not moving the camera with your finger as you click on the button.
 
Ben Dover: I was thinking about popping the pins out of the diafold and rigging something up, but I like to carry it when i go camping and didnt want to make any permanent modifications. I tried to file out a couple huge chips from a crappy yard sale chopper but it was taking way to long so i gave up. That XX would prob do the trick. Do you have any trouble getting the heel of the edge sharpened? I havent noticed that the angles were different when flipping it over but i also havent looked. I'll break it out later and check it out. That would be a real PITA. One of the reasons i picked the ezesharp was so that i could clamp the blade in and not have to fuss with it till i was done. I also planned to make some plates that i could use with sandpaper and leather.

kel_aa: I haven't had any trouble clamping different style grinds in it. Initial clamping is important as jaws are asymetrical. As long as the jaws make contact in the same place on both sides of the blade it will sharpen just fine. I have been taking notes in this regard so that i can compare the setup and actual angles between various sessions. You only need tools to clamp the blade in place, an allen key and a philips head screwdriver (both included). To change side you pull out on the clamp and rotate, it locks back into place every 180 degrees. The last picture was actually done with both the camera and the knife on a table. I set the focus on the camera and adjusted the knife till the edge was visible then pressed the button. It does have a timer, i'll give that a shot when i charge the batteries.

Thanks for the replies.
 
There have been a few reports of the clamp being out of whack one side to the other, people have called the manufacturer or supplier and gotten them replaced.

Heel and tip sharpening. The heel can be a real pain with larger stones, you can try clamping closer to the heel so you get a more direct/straight line to it and rotating the point down so that the point and the heel are closer to each other but you have to be able to grip the blade as well. Rotating the tip so it is closer to distance from the heel will also reduce the arc of grind at the tip. Of course it doesn't look straight, it won't be. But the blade edge will be "straighter".

If necessary sharpen in two stages. Clamp close for the heel and then clamp out further for the rest of the blade. Use a smaller stone. You can if you have an EdgePro use the stone arm and stones from that to sharpen with. Exactly what the Dr ordered.

Make a block to sit inside the frame flush. Then glue on a 1" wide x "thick" (double pieces glued together for height if you need clearance) of glass. (3M 77 spray adhesive.) Apply PSA papers from HA to it. I saw this done once while on vacation and thought it was a definite step up. The owner also built his own frames as well. He could then use any stone size he wanted. Just build a new frame as he needed or wanted. Of course he talents with machinery and access to them that I don't have. But if you are a machinist or know one in your area I'd go that route.

The other choice is of course don't use the clamp. Just rest the blade on the clamp like it's a blade rest on the EdgePro. But then of course why not just buy an EdgePro.

The Eze-Sharp is built strong. It is massive as well. Changing stones is a bit of a pain but you can cure that with extra frames. Expensive unless you make them yourself. A Jig to hold the stone with the same distance protruding from the frame each and every time is a plus. The Eze-Sharp in the king of clamp systems I would imagine.
 
Just set it up and clamped the nimravus how i normally would, marked the edge and took a pass w ith the stone. All ink was removed except for a half inch at the heel. I then removed the blade flipped it over and reinsert into the clamp. Guess what? This time it removed only a hairline of ink from the very edge. I guess I have a faulty unit?

I like the narrow glass plate idea. I'll rig something up for my small frame. Having a custom 1 inch wide frame made up would be pretty nice too. Not using the clamp sounds like a dismal idea. I'd need 3 hands to keep everything where its supposed to be, still wouldnt be able to get the heel, and at that point it would have made more sense to get an edge pro. The unit is definately well built, one of the reasons i chose it over the edge pro. It also seemed much more flexible with the ability to use just about anything i can fit in the frames. Not having to hold the knife while sharpening was a plus too, as I wasnt really keen on having to alternate hands as you do with the edge pro.

Well, i wont give up just yet. I got my unit from wolf industries. Anyone had any dealings with their customer service dept?

Edit: I measured the width of the edge bevel and they are both the same 1mm as precisely as i can tell with this crappy ruler. Measuring from the work surface to the edge, then rotating the flipover the difference in height is 8mm. I would expect the edge should be the same height on both sides. Perhaps someone can confirm this for me? Using a piece of paper in the jaws tells a differnet story. It reaches exactly the same distance to the work surface when rotated. More measurements are certainly in order.
 
Sputnick,
I had good success by removing the blade, NOT flipping the flipover unit, but leaving it in the same position, and turning the knife around.

I had to sharpen the heel by using "straight" strokes with the stone sharpening ONLY the area around the heel. When the heel was sharpened, I then began sliding the stone from heel to toe.

I havbe a "milled" clamp unit on order, that will work with shorter knives. If I am able to use the "flipover" feature successfully with the new unit, I will send the old full size clamp back and have it replaced.

Let's keep this thread ging until we get the problems worked. the EZE sharp is an AWESOME idea, and I think it's worth the trouble to get the "bugs" worked out.

Also, please post if you figure out how to set an exact bevel angle for any blade just by using the markings on the machine.
 
I took some measurements of the various axis' and calculated actual angles then checked to see how much the vertical riser effects things. Its late at night so these numbers are a little rough. Also note that i only measured the degree change on the riser at the 10 degree mark. I calculated for the change in angle from a 1cm rise At 0, 10, and 20 degree settings though. Its insignificant as the change was only a tenth of a degree and i cant measure that fine with what i am using to check lengths.

Outline: The actual and marked angles are not the same. (at the recommended 40mmriser setting). A 1mm rise in the riser will increase the angle by 0.3 degrees. AS it seems these units vary slightly your mileage may vary. I expect the angles to be different when i rotate the clamp and remeasure the angles. The important part to note in all these numbers is really only the change due to the riser adjustment. This will most likely prove to be the same on all ezesharps.

I'll double check these and expand the measurements more tomorow.

prelimchartvk3.jpg
 
just back from the machine shop. They didnt have any 1/2 inch stock so he is going to get some from mcmaster carr (so i dont have to pay for a 12ft length) and should have it ready for me in the next few days. I only got one piece to try out. 9 inches long by 1 inch wide with a threaded hole in either end. Not sure on price yet. Should be around $15. Was just looking around the mcmaster carr site. Looks like i could get them 1x1 so you could put 4 differnet abrasives on a single bar. We'll see how the flat bar works first. If it works out and the cost is decent i would be happy to get these made up for anybody interested.
 
I mounted mine exactly like you except that my old chair had the back rest off and my wife wanted to throw the chair away.

I have been waiting for a thread like this one to use mine more effectively. Originally I wanted an EdgePro but realised that I won't be able to do the right to left hand shift properly.

You can buy 1" wide Norton waterstones from Tools for Woodworking:

http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/...op&Product_Code=NO-WATNA.XX&Category_Code=CNO

or alternatively I did think of sawing the 3" to 2 pieces: a 2" and a 1"

Cheers, and lets keep this thread for a while. I know there are a number of EZE sharp owners who are waiting for more information and discussion.
 
My EZE clamp was 7 degrees off. They replaced it pretty quick now it's only 1.5 degrees.
I am using Apex Pro arm. It's SO MUCH better
 
sputnick said:
Well, i wont give up just yet. I got my unit from wolf industries. Anyone had any dealings with their customer service dept?

Wolff Industries has great customer service. :thumbup:
 
Back from a scuba diving vacation in the caribean, time for some update action.

I contacted wolf industries 8/25 about the misalignment and Bill promptly forwarded a copy to the manufacturer who replied to me directly. He said i could either adjust it myself with directions he would supply or i could trade the flipover for one he has already adjusted. I figured it would be faster and cheaper if i modified it myself considering i wouldnt have to send anything to australia. Sent an email back to him asking for the instructions but im still waiting. A couple days before i left for vacation he said i would get the instructions the next day. Still nothing yet, sent a msg across the pond last night around 2am est so hopefully I'll get some news on the instructions soon. I have received prompt replies to all of my emails from both wolf industries and from the manufacturer so far.

Also on 8/25 I ordered those threaded aluminum bars. They were finished the begining of last week I believe. I guess the office guy who measured the threads when i was there placing the order missed the fact they were metric. No luck recutting the threads from standard to metric though. Luckily there was about 17.5 inces of bar stock left over that he can make me 2 new ones although one will be short of 9 inches long. We'll see what they do for me on the price since i now have 2 9in long pieces of bar stock that i cant use.


More updates when i get something to play with (hopefully today or tomorow).
 
sputnick said:
Back from a scuba diving vacation in the caribean, time for some update action.

I contacted wolf industries 8/25 about the misalignment and Bill promptly forwarded a copy to the manufacturer who replied to me directly. He said i could either adjust it myself with directions he would supply or i could trade the flipover for one he has already adjusted. I figured it would be faster and cheaper if i modified it myself considering i wouldnt have to send anything to australia. Sent an email back to him asking for the instructions but im still waiting. A couple days before i left for vacation he said i would get the instructions the next day. Still nothing yet, sent a msg across the pond last night around 2am est so hopefully I'll get some news on the instructions soon. I have received prompt replies to all of my emails from both wolf industries and from the manufacturer so far.

Also on 8/25 I ordered those threaded aluminum bars. They were finished the begining of last week I believe. I guess the office guy who measured the threads when i was there placing the order missed the fact they were metric. No luck recutting the threads from standard to metric though. Luckily there was about 17.5 inces of bar stock left over that he can make me 2 new ones although one will be short of 9 inches long. We'll see what they do for me on the price since i now have 2 9in long pieces of bar stock that i cant use.


More updates when i get something to play with (hopefully today or tomorow).

When you get the directions on fine tuning the flip, please post them or forward me a copy as I tend to have the same problem.
 
bigbcustom said:
When you get the directions on fine tuning the flip, please post them or forward me a copy as I tend to have the same problem.

+1

I could ue the info as well! Thanx.:)
 
I will most definately be posting the adjustment info here as soon as i receive it.

After that i have planned another round of angle measurements to see what the different settings really do as well as my experience with the aluminum plates. Waiting sucks. Oh well, gives me time to collect abrasives and figure out a testing procedure.
 
Before you guys get these contraptions set up, I can have a knife just as sharp with files/stones. I really don't understand why people won't learn to sharpen a knife by hand!
Bill
 
Bill,

How dare you!?! I bet you took the training wheels off your bike too--you cheater!!!:)

IMHO, it really comes down to a combination of how serious/committed one is, and how much one enjoys the process. If you enjoy the process, of sharpening or anything else for that matter, you will naturally become good at it. If you do not, you will look for ways to avoid it, make it "easier," and never really learn it.

John
 
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