Facelift my Hatchet

Liveitloud

Liveitloud

Joined
Jul 1, 2006
Messages
2,901
So I just snagged one of these (Husqvarna Hatchet) after reading the boards and had a question. How would I go about getting the factory finish off of the head and get a high shine on it?

This is my first hatchet and I would hate to screw it up. Hopefully it's a decent hatchet. I truly know nothing about them. Thanks in advance for any information you might have.

HV.jpg
[/IMG]

photo borrowed from google search.

Funny..... I just bought the same Mora lastnight.
 
Liveitloud said:
So I just snagged one of these (Husqvarna Hatchet) after reading the boards and had a question. How would I go about getting the factory finish off of the head and get a high shine on it?

This is my first hatchet and I would hate to screw it up. Hopefully it's a decent hatchet. I truly know nothing about them. Thanks in advance for any information you might have.

HV.jpg
[/IMG]

photo borrowed from google search.

Funny..... I just bought the same Mora lastnight.
Click to expand...

Hi there
If it's paint just throw it in some paint remover. I wipe Cold steel hawks down with steel wool after the paint comes off. If the surface is rough you have a lot of sanding to do to get a high polish finish. If you're hand sanding you might start with 220 then go to 320, 400, 600 and 1000 grit black paper.
If you have a belt grinder or a belt sander you could use that but I'd start with a yard sale beater for some practice. Have fun.

Regards

Robin
 
Pretty nice the way it is, but its yours.

If you have some type of power drill, go to a big store or hard ware or a road and ranch and try one of them scotch brite wheels, discs. when using this or any sanding, grinding or buffing rotating power tool, keep it spinning off the edges not into the edges or corners. if not it could grab and sling something in a bad direction.

if using sandpaper start with the coarse grits and work to finer, I may start with 180 or 220 and work through 320 and a polish up with 400.

BUT as mentioned starting out on a cheap flea market, swap meet special then use what you have learned on the nicer stuff.

have fun Pat
 
Hey guys thanks for the information. I have a bunch of sandpaper out in the garage. I also have a belt sander, drill, dremel and one of those hand held sanding blocks so looks like I have most everything I need. I don't know if it's smooth or rough so guess I'll have to wait until it comes in.

I might end up liking the finish that's on it but I really like the idea of having it shiny, we'll see. I was digging around in the garage yesterday and found an old one laying around. Not really sure where it came from but it sure gives me something to practice on.

I appreciate the advice. Thanks a lot!
 
I was an inch from buying the same axe, but ended up finding a great deal on the small wetterlings instead. Very nice axe.

If you're at all unsure about re-finishing, I'd ask yourself seriously why you want to remove the finish. I believe on this axe the colouring is the distinct result of being handforged, not paint or some other finish like the cheaper box-store brands. As such, a lot of people leave them as-is - their utility and looks are already great out of the box, and once you re-finish there's no going back.

However you decide to enjoy your tool, just remember to keep the head and helve oiled on a semi-regular basis to protect from water and rust!

Cheers!
 
timothy0ll said:
I was an inch from buying the same axe, but ended up finding a great deal on the small wetterlings instead. Very nice axe.

If you're at all unsure about re-finishing, I'd ask yourself seriously why you want to remove the finish. I believe on this axe the colouring is the distinct result of being handforged, not paint or some other finish like the cheaper box-store brands. As such, a lot of people leave them as-is - their utility and looks are already great out of the box, and once you re-finish there's no going back.

However you decide to enjoy your tool, just remember to keep the head and helve oiled on a semi-regular basis to protect from water and rust!

Cheers!
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up Timothy I will consider these things when it gets here. I may just leave it as is for awhile. I really do like the looks of it. Just got a Khukuri here awhile back and have really been on a chopping binge.

Do you think it would be wise to epoxy the end of it? I noticed several other posters at various boards have done so to keep it sturdy. Like I said earlier I really don't know much about chopping tools. :)
 
Liveitloud said:
Thanks for the heads up Timothy I will consider these things when it gets here. I may just leave it as is for awhile. I really do like the looks of it. Just got a Khukuri here awhile back and have really been on a chopping binge.

Do you think it would be wise to epoxy the end of it? I noticed several other posters at various boards have done so to keep it sturdy. Like I said earlier I really don't know much about chopping tools. :)
Click to expand...

I must say that I agree with Timothy. See what happens when you play with the old ax, if you get the bug grab a few more oldies at garage sales. Go chop something with your new one. ;-)))) Or throw it.

Regards

Robin
 
Well, there have been a few glitches with my purchase. It arrived and when I took it out of the box it was a 26 inch axe, not a 13 inch hatchet. So I had to send it back to the seller, and have the right one coming. I did notice though on the handle of the axe, which is the same brand as the hatchet, that the handle is raw and unfinished. What have you guys done with your handles to protect against the elements? Hopefully it will be here early this week.
 
Liveitloud said:
I did notice though on the handle of the axe, which is the same brand as the hatchet, that the handle is raw and unfinished. What have you guys done with your handles to protect against the elements?
Click to expand...

You can do several coats of Boiled Linseed Oil, Tung oil and/or coat it with beeswax.
 
Yeah I think they are. So I have put about 3 coats of low sheen tung oil on it and used fine steel wool between coats. I figure one more for good measure and I'm done.

Does anyone know where to get a decent blade cover? The one that came with it is loose and not very nice.
 
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