Factory Thread Locker on G10?

B

Bigfoot870

Joined
Jan 20, 2016
Messages
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My BNIB Spyderco Manix 2 Backlock arrived........Yippee
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So, I removed the pocket clip, to move it to the opposite end, as the factory position didn't suit me.

At first, I thought the torque pressure of the flange portion of the clip, had flattened the "points" of the textured G10, due to the area being shiny. I looked closer, and although it appears that my hunch is correct, there appears to be thread locker "squeeze out" covering about 35% of that area, in an irregular pattern. ( I.e. Slight shininess = "points" in texture flattened from pressure. Additional shininess = tread locker filled in "valleys" in texture.)

FYI - This is the most expensive knife I have ever purchased, and it will not be a "beater", in any sense of the word.

Any ideas how to remove the factory thread locker, without damaging the G10?
 
rpttrsn said:
Call loctite customer service.
Click to expand...

Do you know that Spyderco uses LocTite brand thread locker?
Do you suppose that LocTite knows what G10 is?

I was hoping to hear that someone on hear has actually removed thread locker from G10, without harming it :)
 
I would try warm water and dish soap. Maybe a nylon brush, toothbrush. My wife’s toothbrush works pretty good at clean g10 when its dirty.
If that doesnt work try a little rubbing alcohol.
 
Bigfoot870 said:
Do you know that Spyderco uses LocTite brand thread locker?
Do you suppose that LocTite knows what G10 is?

I was hoping to hear that someone on hear has actually removed thread locker from G10, without harming it :)
Click to expand...
Most of the thread thread lockers are the same.
You can also tell them what G10 is if they don’t know.
Here is what G10 is so you don’t have to look it up.
G10 is a high-pressure fiberglass laminate, a kind of composite material. ... G10 is very similar to Micarta and carbon fiber laminates, because they are all resin-based laminates, except that the base material used is glass cloth. G10 is the toughest of the glass fiber resin laminates and therefore the most commonly used.
 
I'd try a toothpick to "pick" it out and, assuming that didn't work, I'd try a dental pick next. Obviously I'd be more careful with the dental pick as it's metal and not wood. That's just me, though. Usually once thread lock dries it can be scraped away if you're careful.
 
FourD said:
I'd try a toothpick to "pick" it out and, assuming that didn't work, I'd try a dental pick next. Obviously I'd be more careful with the dental pick as it's metal and not wood. That's just me, though. Usually once thread lock dries it can be scraped away if you're careful.
Click to expand...

The texture of the G10 is much finer than Spyderco's "standard" G10, so a wooden toothpick is too fat. I won't use a steel pick.
 
rpttrsn said:
Most of the thread thread lockers are the same.
You can also tell them what G10 is if they don’t know.
Here is what G10 is so you don’t have to look it up.
G10 is a high-pressure fiberglass laminate, a kind of composite material. ... G10 is very similar to Micarta and carbon fiber laminates, because they are all resin-based laminates, except that the base material used is glass cloth. G10 is the toughest of the glass fiber resin laminates and therefore the most commonly used.
Click to expand...

Do you know what resin Spyderco uses, such as: polyester, vinylester, epoxy? Without knowing, I won't use any solvent. FYI - I worked over 22 years in the fibreglass piping industry.
 
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Dried lok-tite is about impossible to remove from g10 in my experience. That's why you don't slather it on. A little goes a long ways!
 
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