Fairbairn-Sykes Dagger Handle

David Stifle

David Stifle

Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
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Hi Guys,

Just for fun, I'm trying to make a FS dagger as close to the original as possible. One of the forum members was kind enough to give me s disgram showing the exact dimensions of the original. But, does anyone have any insight into how the metal handle was made? I assume it was cast, but not sure.

Dave
 

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I have seen some excellent representations done with a wire wrapped handle. I believe the original handles were cast and possibly machine finished.
 
Thanks Guys,

That's pretty much what I think too. I have a nice, solid cylinder I think I can use to pretty much duplicate the handle. If not, a wire wrap sounds good too.

Dave
 
Interesting topic-so much so that I went out and bought a couple when i could
-even "brand named" ones have lots of manufacturing variance
my pattern 2, is make by Wilkinson Sword, yet we would call the craftsmanship awful.

you have this drawing?
Fmfrp_12_80_p69.png


In this photo
attachment.php


There are 3 types, from left to right Pattern 1, 2 and 3

I haven't yet been able to purchase a Pattern 1, but I have a Pattern 2, and a couple of Pattern 3's
Of those, I have a "beater" mk 3 that I had no reservations about taking apart; but not my mk2
the threaded tang is cut and peened over into the nut and I don't want to disturb the patina

Mk 2

The handle is blackened and made from solid brass-not cast, machined (roughly) with small filing flat spots all the way around at each end
It seems as if the knurling was done all over, then filed off at each end, but as bench work, not lathe work.
-the knurling is a very flat diamond with lots of overrun / runover spots (must have been hard to follow the changing diameter)


Mk 3
I have taken this one apart
-this handle is cast, you can see the mould form line
-material?, not brass, some sort of aluminum with a bronze coloured wash coating.
-the handle is pitted and constantly oxidizing with a white foamy oxide
although it is a white metal/ aluminum,it is fairly heavy

-the inside of the handle has been broached to a fairly decent rectangular hole on the guard end of the handle, while keeping the round countersunk hole at the tank end
that's something that the drawing doesn't show, the nut is a tapered nut that fits into s countersunk recess at the threaded tang end.
10-24 threaded tang

the tang differs from the drawing too, with about 5/16 width tang at the guard

If you want to be authentic, fits are sloppy !

I can answer specific questions.
 
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Hi David,

I believe the original first patterns had blades modified from bayonets and were turned on a lathe and hand knurled. Later patterns including later 1st patterns were machine knurled IIRC. If I'm wrong anybody please correct me.

I've made a few myself, not precise reproductions, but inspired by the original pattern 1 & 2 knives. I've made over a dozen FS style handles, out of wood, leather and micarta. Although different materials, I find that sticking to the original handle dimensions, even though they sometimes seem off compared to many knives today, is what gives it the right slender foil handle look.

Good luck with your project!
 
I think dagger #3 has a cast Zinc handle. "Nonstrategic metals" and ease of production.

I think #2 has a brass casting(?!) for a handle, w/ sloppy lathe turned knurling. I imagine that knurling that skinny, flower-vase shaped handle wasn't fun or easy to do neatly.

I think I read that the blades with the flat near the handguard were hand made.

Personally, I figure the more modern mass produced triangular cross sectioned blades were hot stamped from quality sheet metal, then h/t'd and sharpened. They feel good in my hand and are semi-affordable w/ zinc handles.
 
They where cast then machined. I did all the reading I could when I made my first one.

As noted above, they where not focused on fit and finish, but rather producing them by the thousands for the cutting of throats. ;)

Ya gotta pic your battles after all.....
 
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