Fairly heavy splitting with a D2 hollow ground fixed blade (Heafner) and Ratweiler

Cliff Stamp

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First was some small wood, and relatively clear, with no significant knots. A small piece of alder was used as a baton, about a pound, heavy elbow swings were used (~25 ft.lbs calibrated from lead weight drops) enough energy to damage most heavy folders quickly and light ones immediately. Three rounds were split with each knife :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/swamp rat/ratweiler/rat_rounds_r1_split.jpg

No effect on either blade. They were similar in terms of ability, no real difference noted. The baton was way too light for this size of knife, it was really inefficient, like washing a floor with a toothbrush. Twenty nine and thirty one impacts for the Heafner bowie and 31 for the Ratweiler through the sticks.

Four more rounds were chosen for each, either more dense wood, or a few small knots. The splits were still done with maximum efficiency, meaning use of breaks in the wood and avoiding chisel cutting knots. The baton was moved up to a sensible size, still alder but now three pounds. Impacts were from the shoulder (~50 ft.lbs) these tend to break folders pretty much instantly.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/swamp rat/ratweiler/rat_rounds_r2_split.jpg

The black stuff on the wood is the coating of the Ratweiler coming off. Again no real difference noted, 59 and 60 impacts for the Heafner and Ratweiler respectively. Heavy down force was used on the handles of both knives. Both had decent feedback, but nothing serious, no gloves were used and there were no problems controlling the knives during the splitting.

Finally three problematic pieces were noted, significant knots, one for each which was even cross knotted and large. The first two split similar to previous, just a few more hits required. The last two were different. Full force hits made about 1/4" progress through the problematic areas and after 1-2 hits I almost knocked my index knuckle out of joint, I had to wrap the handles of the blades :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/swamp rat/ratweiler/rat_rounds_r3_split.jpg

It took 47 and 57 impacts for the Heafner and Ratweiler respectively, with the majority of each being on the last round. The Heafner chipped in two places clearing through the knots, it was impossible to keep the blade stable, there was no way to put enough pressure on the handle. The chipping was minor, a small fraction of a mm, it was removed with about 100 passes on a coarse SiC stone.

This was mainily a quick check to see if the primary hollow grind on the Heafner would blow on a knot. The edge is 0.031" thick and ground at 18.0 (5) degrees per side, this is pretty close to optimal for a heavy wood working blade. The Ratweiler is 0.035" thick and ground at 22.2 (2) degrees per side. The Heafner has been used a lot, so the chipping may have been an accumulation issue, or it may have just been a bad twist.

The Ratweiler was reprofiled to 18 degrees per side and the above will be rechecked. The blades were also compared in chopping, the Heafner is significantly heavier (660 vs 540 g) and more forward balanced and it shows in the penetration and it was more fluid in some alder (cut both batons earlier). Both can be shifted to rear grips to increase power. The cutting ability seemed similar, with the Heafner having a slight advantage carving the handles, but both would chop the handles out faster than they could be carved.

-Cliff
 
nice review cliff. i like d2 but have always been a bit hesitant for blades above the 4-5" range due to it not being the best choice for impacts. it's interesting to see that the bowie has performed as well as the rat for chopping and splitting. i'm assuming the bowie is 1/4" stock as well??
 
It is actually thicker, 0.275", it is a massive blade. I was pretty much expecting this knife to be fairly low performance wise for wood working and general utility. However it is among the better blades I have seen in many aspects, the handle is especially nice in several regards. The fluidity of the blade in the wood is actually generally high, especially compared to similar hollow grind blades I have seen which were so bad they had to be actually cut out (Strider PAB).

-Cliff
 
Spent some time chopping with these blades, one short session inside chopping up birch and another longer one outside on some fir and spruce. The wood was frozen and it was -5 C and some of the wood actually cracked apart during the chopping :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/swamp rat/ratweiler/frozen_wood_chop.jpg

That is just one chop from the right, the left part just cracked off. On the harder wood like that the penetration was low, and the feedback high with both blades. I had to wear a heavy rawhide glove. It was worse with the Ratweiler because the finger tips would vibrate along the texture which got uncomfortable fast.

In general the Heafner hit much harder, but the higher grind on the Ratweiler compensated and the performance was near idential. Through 27 sections of wood cut with each blade the Ratweiler on average took 4 (3) % more impacts, i.e., they were identical in number of hits. The Heafner stuck a few times on knots, but just a wrist pop got it out.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/swamp rat/ratweiler/ratweiler_chopping.jpg

Examining the edges under magnification the Heafner (D2) had multiple small chips, about 0.1-0.15mm deep and about 0.2 mm long at maximum and less than one chip per mm in the heaviest contact spot. These could be felt with the fingernail. The Ratweiler (SR101 - modified 52100) was smooth, no chips.

-Cliff
 
Both of these are priced fairly low considering what you get. Interesting blades, I have been using them side by side for awhile. The performance isn't exactly how I would have predicted it. The guard of the Heafner is a large factor. Using both in the kitchen for example, you can work right over the top of the guard for peeling potatos :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/Heafner Bowie/heafner_potato.jpg

It is not a great blade for that, you basically are slicing little pieces off, not actually working with a peel. However it is actually more efficent than the Ratweiler assuming you don't mind the extra weight in hand :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/swamp rat/ratweiler/ratweiler_potato.jpg

Similar issues with the guard come up in heavy wood carving, roughing stock to shape. The Heafner is about half the optimal performance seen carving seasoned birch, and the Ratweiler is similar, but a glove has to be used to choke up on the blade as the top hump is not comfortable in an overhand grip.

Using both on some birch carving, removing bark, again they are very similar, the main difference is the ease of using forward grips on the Heafner. Both will easily strip off the outer layer, or go right to the wood. Carving the woods both are again similar, no significant difference.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/swamp rat/ratweiler/ratweiler_birch_bark.jpg

Again this assumes you are comfortable with the weight of the Heafner in hand, I generally work with much longer blades, parangs and heavy khukuris, so this blade feels light in hand. If you are used to smaller and more neutral blades the Ratweiler would likely be more efficient at most cutting tasks due to fatigue issues.

The birch chopping mentioned earlier :


http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/swamp rat/ratweiler/ratweiler_birch_chopping.jpg

-Cliff
 
Immediately I want to repeat the cutting on softer wood, alders or pine, however it has to go above freezing first as even that wood is hard when frozen. I also want to run a cardboard and carpet comparison which should show an advantage for D2, plus some digging. I'm also going to try and locate some heavy bone.

-Cliff
 
I intended to use the Ratweiler and Heafner bowie to mainly test out some fire logs, this turned out to be a major disappointment. I had basically plastic wrapped a wood shaving, newsprint and wax combination and figured to just slice them open and presto instant fire with no kindling.

In short they didn't work. The plastic wrap was way to slow burning, the flames were about 1-2" in height with a very low volume. It was also about -5 C (dead air) with a 30-40 km wind, and thus my plans to just burn cut and dead wood fell short. The fire log burned well, no problems starting it, but it just didn't produce enough heat, I had to fall back on preparing tinder.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/swamp rat/ratweiler/ratweiler_fire_start.jpg

They would probably work well if it was warm and the wood dry and easily ignited, but it is trival to get a fire going then anyway. I wanted something which would readily burn wet and frozen wood. The plastic was just too thick, it was the remains of a waterbed, fairly flame resistant it turns out. Of course it still made it a lot easier than nothing, a few small sticks, some green boughs and flame.

In no time the fire was self sustaining and could take the wind and both knives were used to cut up some close by dead fall as well as chop up some alders to see how they worked as machetes on springy brush. There was no difference in cutting ability, the Heafner was again heavier in hand, but even it is light compared to larger khukuris or parangs so I don't mind the weight.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/swamp rat/ratweiler/ratweiler_fire_logs.jpg

While this burned down I spent some time cutting fresh wood of smaller diameter. Basically cutting down some sticks and then popping the ends off with both knives trying to see which one cut better. Again no significant difference. If the Ratweiler failed to make a cut as the stick was too thick the Heafner did as well. A shot of a cut with both knives :

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/CliffStamp/swamp rat/ratweiler/ratweiler_heafner_section.jpg

The only real difference I found was that the Heafner made a much better club, if you reverse the knife it makes a better hammer and you can use this to break off the dead limbs off trees which can save the primary edge from blunting. Similar advantage of course for pounding stakes, driving nails etc., I'll measure the impact energies later on.

-Cliff
 
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