Falcata model, pix & specs

Anton Irmen

BOUNCED EMAIL: I need to update my email address in my profile!
Joined
Jan 15, 2001
Messages
68
Finally, I found the time to finish the “Falcata” model. Pics and specs below. A few additional comments: The model is based on the two examples of this weapon I have seen so far, pictures and data from various sites, including:
http://members.nbci.com/_XMCM/thrace/weapons.htm
(great site about Thracian weapons)
http://swordforum.com/swords/deltin/dt-falcata.html
(the only “review” of a falcata-replica I found so far; IIRC, the original, on which this replica is based, is (or was) on display at the British Museum: It was from Northern (?) Spain.

the model:

falci1.jpg

the specifications:
fal3.jpg


I have been playing around some time to find the right handle, just to find out that the original “crooked” handle has many advantages. It gives you a really secure grip (and at the same time you can keep a “loose” wrist), it maximizes your radius of swing, and it provides the counter-balance needed to get the point of balance closer towards the handle (BTW, the handle slabs of the model are epoxy-impregnated balsawood, so they should provide for a more "real" balancing). The originals nearly always had bronze-handles, and a full-tang construction. To get the balance right with a wooden handle, the blade needs pretty wide fullers, which the originals did not have (they have had apparently thin blades with either a "center rib" or a "t-beam" cross section, or very narrow, "cosmetic" fullers). The blade is a little over 2.5 mm (1/10”) thick at the deepest part of the fullers. I think this still will be thick enough to prevent warping of the blade during heat treatment. To shift the weight more towards the handle, the tang does not taper, it remains at nearly full thickness all the way. Hardening of the blade could be done Khukuri-style, maybe except for the tip, which should not be too soft.
The only aspect of the construction I am a little worried about are the wooden slabs of the handle. At the “crooked” part of the handle, before the “head” begins, the grain of the wood will run perpendicular to the tang, which, together with the pin at this position, could mean there is a high risk of cracking of the handle. Oh, the “head”; since I lack the skills to produce something interesting, I kept the shape pretty simple, but maybe, it’s a garud
wink.gif
(the grip of the originals always terminated into an animal’s head – mostly a bird, but I have seen a horse at least once). Last but not least, I think there is enough disagreement between the scholars or historians about the correct usage of the terms “machaira”/”machaira” and “falcata”, so we can just as well stick to the “falcata” label.
Oh, I completely forgot about the weight: I hope that will be possible to keep the falcata somehow within the 2- 2 1/4 lbs. range.
After the model was finished, I began to realize that I completely forgot that there might be people around with larger hands than I have (4" wide), but the grip can accomodate at least two more fingers without problems.


Thanks are due to Onkel Bill and Yvsa for suggestions how to make a model, and to Tom Holt for valuable input on the specifications.

--[------ anton

P.S: After measuring the model, I found out that it is actually a little shorter than the data in the drawing. It is 66cm (26”) instead of a little more than 27”.

edited for UBB - as always



[This message has been edited by Anton Irmen (edited 05-08-2001).]
 
I will wait until I see what the kamis do with it before I say yes for sure... so I guess I am a definate maybe.
 
Uncle Bill,
PLEASE!!! Sign me up for one. I have always loved the Falcata, and that model is GREAT!! I love it! I am requestion to be placed on the official bandwagon. THANKS!!

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Defeat the fear of death and welcome the death of fear. G.Liddy
 
GREAT WORK ANTON!!!
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Do I want one? Boy is that a silly question.
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Uncle put me on the list
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Many thanks.

BTW: whatever happened to the yataghan project? After watching "The Mummy Returns" I think I could find a space in my collection for one of these.

 
Bill:

If the actual production pieces are close to this model I'm interested. I think the weight really need to be kept closer to 2 lbs.
 
I would really like one. I will have to see if I can come up with the money. I still have some other HI purchases I am saving for.
(One of everything)
 
Thanks for all the kind words about the model. Actually, the picture looks a lot better than the original does
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The only real concern that I have is that the Kamis think this is "just" another Khukuri - which it is not. It balances completely different, and is designed to be a "cut-and-thrust" short sword. There are some things the kamis might change if they want (e.g. the shape of the "head", and I also don’t know if they think it is appropriate or even a “must” to add a cho).
But it is really important that the point of balance is rather close to the handle (around 3”/ 7-8 cm), and that the weight is in the 2 lbs range (so it might be a good idea to double-check if Sher is somewhere close to the forge
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Sorry, in my original post I mentioned “somewhere between 2 1/4 and 2 1/2 lbs” – I sometimes have a tendency to think that a lb (454 gram) is much less than a “metric pound” (well, just an informal unit anyway, meaning 500 gram), so I screw up the conversion from time to time. So, weight between 2 and 2 ¼ lbs (900 and 1020 gram, respectively)
 
:

That is some really beautiful art work Anton!!!! Great Job!!!!
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Vacation is gonna have me tapped out for a while, but the Falcata looks like a real winner to me.
Being a Chiruwa handle the kamis are more apt to make it as designed so I don't believe that will be much of an issue. It's only when the handle is of standard design that the issue of more curve in the handle is not apt to come about.


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Yvsa.

"VEGETARIAN".............
Indin word for lousy hunter.
 
Woahh, I picked a good day to make it back here. Finishing up midterms, projects, papers, and finals in a week and a half....
I think I'll have to pick one of these things up! Any clue when the order will be going in?
Great job on your model Anton! She's beautiful, and she looks like she's got great proportions. I love that fuller.

Bob
 
Oh my!!! Great work on the model. Well I have no choice... I have to add this model to my list of stuff I absolutely need in order to live
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. I still think I should get the katana first though. It is only fair since I fell in love with it first. The falcata will be second and the yataghan third. Can you tell I like long pointed curvy things?

Put me on the list to get one after the first round of orders come back
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Ok... now I'm really off to shoot some knife photos.

Alan

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When all else fails...JSTF :D
 
Oh yeah, Anton's in Germany!
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Cool, I have time to take care of prior commitments and to make lots and lots of money over the start of the summer.
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oh, well... I have to move because of a new job assignment - so all packaging material (and time) is needed elsewhere
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, but chances are high that the model will be on its way to Nevada within the next week
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Sending it via air mail to Reno might take another week, not to mention its long way to Nepal - so please, be patient (I have to be, too
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[This message has been edited by Anton Irmen (edited 05-09-2001).]
 
This project will be another one to follow with interest. What will be most interesting is how closely the kamis will follow the model and what improvements they will inevitably add.

I am predicting that Durba's version will be closest in implimenting Anton's vision of a falcata.

Harry
 
Anton, that is a fine job. I thought about your concern with the wood splitting around the curve of the handle. Uncle Bill, if the kamis use wood from the fork of a branch the wood grain will already naturally flow around the handle and won't split for any reason. The crotch of the fork would, of course, be at the rivet point on the sharpest part of the bend. They'd have to split the fork with a hacksaw blade or a saw.

Would love to see this one in person one day!

best wishes

Stephen Hamilton
 
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