Fallkniven A1 versus Timberline Zambezi

Joined
Jul 9, 2001
Messages
1,411
I am interested in buying a stainless steel combat/utility knife with a six or seven inch blade, and so far am comparing the Fallkniven A1 to the Timberline Zambezi. I know that the Fallkniven A1 has a very strong reputation, and the VG10 steel used in the blade is superior to the 440C steel of the Zambezi. On the other hand, I like the handle on the Zambezi MUCH better than the handle on the A1.

Right now I am leaning toward the Zambezi due to the better handle. Anyone care to offer an opinion on which knife is best?
 
I'd lean toward Fallkniven. Very comfortable handle and very good steel. What more can I ask in a working knife ??? :D
 
The steel in either knife is excellent, so I would go with the one that feels the best in YOUR hand. If you can't handle both before your purchase, it looks like you are pretty much sold on the Zambezi due to its' handle, which does look to be pretty well thought out.
 
vote here for the A1, although ive never seen a Zambezi, I admit the handle on the fallkniven looks a bit like a kitchen knife but it fits my hand very comfortably. I have no complaints. the fallkniven is more of a chopper than anything else, the edge is very strong convex grind and there isnt much in the way of a finger guard to stop your hand sliding onto the blade if you stuck it in something hard, a small bit of kraton handle but it wouldnt provice much protectin. Its more a utility/ survival knife the blade is monstrously thick
 
Hello bladefixation,

Your comments about the small finger guard on the Fallkniven are precisely why I am leaning toward the Zambezi. It has a long choil and is designed so that one can place the first finger on either side. However it is used, I think it would be far more secure than the handle on the Fallkniven A1.

I already have the Fallkniven F1 and the WM1. The handle on the F1 is comfortable, but that tiny bump of a guard makes me nervous. I like the handle on the WM1 better. The guard on it is small, but in comparison to many neck knives it actually has one of the better handles.
 
Wow, Jeff, little bit of a steel snob aren't we?

I personally prefer 440C to ATS-34/154CM.
Actually thus-far 440C is my favorite alloy, but I'm still testing some VG-10 and I need to try S30V.
 
Jeff,

What are you thinking? 440C is plenty good steel even if there are newer cooler alloys around, but the knives you suggested don't even come close in form and function to the two me mentioned. The big one only has a 5 3/8 blade as opposed to 6 1/2 on the Falkniven and the Zambezi.

I favor the Zambezi myself and have handled a couple. It's on the cover of the September Tactical Knives magazine as well. It sure seems like one tough knife for the money. I was looking for something like that when I bought my Lile Combat (7" D2 blade with black linen micarta handles). Even with the Lile, I still kinda want a Zambezi. I feel even stronger about the Zambezi since I found out how the handle is constructed. The Kraton ribs sticking out of the handle are part of a much larger single piece of Kraton inset in the handle slabs from underneeth, wheras they look like delicate, easy to dislodge inserts. With the durabe Kraton and the choil design(sort of sub-hilt), the Timberline knife seems like it would offer a better grip under a wider variety of circumstances.

While I still want a Zambezi, my desire for the Falkniven has waned. I'm sure it's a fine knife and they have a lot in common, but the Lightfoot design appeals to me more. Did I mention that the Zambezi has a full tapered tang grind?

I must be a knife junkie.

jmx
 
Small guard in A1??? I think that it is huge. I've used guardless knives = puukkos all my life and find that guards only hinder my abilities to use knives. I can't think of e.g. a chisel with a guard. F1 has the biggest guard of all my knives.

I can't really understand why chopper should have a guard at all - large but cap - yeas but guard?? When I use a chopper my hand tends to slip backwards not forward. Look how the handles of khukuris look like...

My complain with A1 is small (circumference) box-like handle. Compared to e.g. M-95 sissipuukko the handle is quite uncomfortable. Handle means a lot - If you can't use a knife because of the handle even the best steel won't help you. It sounds like you will get the Zambesi.
 
I own Fällkniven knives and I am impressed with their performance, even if the handles do not fit me entirely well. The Zambezi is on my list as well, but you might want to take a look at the S&W HRT in this category also.

I recently got one and the workmanship is very, very good - especially considering that it is less than half the price of an A1. Balance, blade geometry and edge geometry is excellent. Blade is 7" x 1/4" 440C with a strong recurve, making it a great chopper. The full tang/Zytel handle fits my avarage size hands very well.

It also came with one of the most perfectly executed edge bevels I have ever seen, with an included angle of about 34 degrees. Very sharp!

There are some very nice pics of the HRT at Darrel Ralph's site; www.darrelralph.com/1mainframe.htm

Regards Jan
 
As much of a Darrel Ralph fan as I am, and as much respect I have for his designs, I wouldn't buy an S&W (Taylor Cutlery) Knife if you put a gun to my head.
Kit Carson warned me about their business practices, and boy does Taylor cut corners.
 
Ok, I have the Zambezi, Fallkniven A-1 and the S&W HRT Combat knife.
Here's my take on'em:

The Timberline/Lightfoot Zambezi is the very definition of a sharpened pry bar. It is 1/4" stock so thick at the edge it makes my Cold Steel SRK nervous. However, it should make for a butt kicker of a dive knife with the epoxy coated 440c steel used in the blade that also covers the whole tang. The blade is thick enough to pry with and the edge is very sharp. This is not a knife you'll be slicing tomatos with but should be an adequate chopper/whacker and self defense piece. The handle has a built in sub-hilt that is also a guard. The handle on the knife is long enough to use it either way. The butt end has a skull crusher/hammer that is just big enough to be useful. The blade also has notches and grooves in all the right places for a great grip.
The sheathing system on the Zambezi has more bells and whistles than your average county fair. It is fairly complicated for me anyway. This is an ideal system if you are a real life operator in need of ALICE tiedown, leg tiedown and jump rating capabilities in your knife system. For the average Joe like me, it's a bit of overkill. The sheath has at least a yard and a half of Velcro fastened Nylon strapping with it.:eek:
The knife retention device on the sheath is first rate in my book. You have to depress a "button" to unlock the knife from the sheath. It is very secure and accidentally losing the blade is next to impossible.
The good thing is the system can be simpled down for the average non-operator person like me. It is still a lotta knife and sheath for the money and the handle gives you several grip options in use.
If you can, YOU REALLY SHOULD HANDLE THIS KNIFE BEFORE YOU BUY IT. I can't stress this enough. This is a knife that, IMHO, is not for everyone. Really.

The Fallkniven A-1 speaks for itself. It is probably one of the best production fixed blades on the market today. And deservedly so. It may not be the best option for stabbing due to a fairly abbreviated guard, but as an every day work knife it soars with the eagles IMO. This knife makes you wanna use it when you hold it. Every time I pick it up I think "hmmmm...now what needs to be cut around here?" Drives my wife absolutely crazy.:D
The A-1 is a definate keeper.

The S&W HRT Combat knife is a steal at the price you pay for it.
It is one of the more under rated knives on the market today due to it's affiliation with the often maligned Taylor Cutlery. True, they have in the past been given to some rather dubious busines practices, but, Darrel Ralph thought enough of them to give them a second chance and I followed suit.
I'm glad I did.
The HRT Combat knife is one of the best compact choppers I've used to date. I say compact because the 7" blade length is a couple of inches under what I normally consider ideal "chopper" blade length.
It is of re-curve design, 7/32" stock(mine is anyway, between 3/16" and 1/4") and is nicely thinned out to the edge. Not too thin and not thick gives this knife a nice workable edge. It has contoured Zytel scales and has a fairly flat feel to the handle. This is another knife you should try to handle before buying.
Last year we had a tropical storm come thru my area and left considerable tree fall in my neighborhood and my yard in particular. My neighbor several houses down had a HUGE oak tree in his yard fall onto his garage totally taking it and his new Lincoln Town car out(the Town Car was totaled). I had a Dogwood and a Comphor or Mulberry, (I can't remember which it was now, getting old sucks, ya can't remember squat) tree come down. I used the HRT knife for several days limbing out the fallen trees in the yard so I could get to the main trunk and introduce it to Mr. Chainsaw.
Wading thru tight quarters within the branches, the sheath did not get tangled in the branches and the knife performed very well for me chopping 1 and 2" branches often in a single swing. The sweet spot is right where the belly begins it's upward sweep. After working several days on this the knife had quite a few scratches on the blade but the blade was still hair scraping sharp. About a minute on the Sharpmaker 204 and it was hair poppin' sharp again.

After the thunderstorm we had two days ago, a major limb(4" across and apprx. 16' long) on another one of my old Dogwoods has succumbed to a lightning strike and when I go out to process it, the HRT will be utilized prior to bringing out Mr. Chainsaw once again.:rolleyes:

The HRT Combat knife does have it's down sides too. I've yet to meet a knife that doesn't. This knife's possible problem areas are in the sheath. It is a bit cheesy. I can't decide whether it's kydex or Zytel and it is a little thin. The knife's scales are secured to the tang with huge Phillip's screws that are bead blasted and appear to be rust prone. The handle may be construed as too wide and flat for people with smaller hands and the blade itself is bead blasted.:barf:
Even with it's down sides, this knife has garnered a good deal of my respect. It is a sound working design and I have no doubt it would be a shockingly devastating defense knife if it ever came down to that.

Please keep in mind that this is all my opinion and may not jive with the experience/preference of others.
I hope this helps.

All the best,
Mike U.
 
Hello misque,

Knife stores aren't particularly abundant around Atlanta, so I doubt I will get a chance to handle the Zambezi.

I still am leaning toward that one. The A1 sounds like as fine a utility knife as is available, but remember I said I wanted a combat/utility. From what everyone is saying about the A1 handle, I don't think it would provide a secure grip in a stab. So I am thinking the A1 is strictly a utility knife, and not a combat/utility knife.
 
You made me dig the A1 out of the closet and check for myself.

I agree with everything in Tommi's post, especially that utility use is compromised by too much / any guard. As he didn't really comment on the "fight worthiness" of A1 I guess I have to :)

I stabbed a phone book a few times in forward grip. This felt a little awkward. I won't go into details but I think you can use A1 to stab in forward grip, the grip is secure but something in the handle shape (?) felt pretty weak anatomically.

However... I got an idea and picked up the A1 in reverse grip. It felt like it was glued to my hand. I pounded the phonebook with substantially more power than earlier; the grip couldn't have been more secure!

Conclusion: I think the A1 can be totally devastating provided you use reverse grip.

- Gon
 
Back
Top