OK, I understand this is subject that has been brought up alot, I wanted to make sure I understood sharpening a convex before I tried and now...well, having some problems. I bought a mousepad started at 1000 grit because it was still relativley sharp (did about 8 strokes each direction then switched every other way doing 8 more each way), then 2000 grit (same thing as above) Then i stropped with the black and green compound. Then I tried to slice a piece of notebook paper and it just bites and stops, tearing it more so then slicing through it. So I went back to 2000 Grit and sharpied my edge to check where I was sharpening and it took it off right at the edge and a little on the shoulder. Stropped it again, and nothing. Wont shave hair, barely cut paper. Im allowing the weight of the knife to do much of the work. I feel like I maybe rolled one of the edges, but cant tell which one ( both sound the same when sharpening on sandpaper). I am going to stop for the moment just to make sure I dont ruin it more before I get some feedback.
So here are a couple of my questions.
The first thing I'd do, is to get rid of the mouse pad. Use something a bit firmer, like leather on a hard backing (wood). The mouse pad is a bit too soft, and this places a premium on technique, as the soft backing makes it much easier to round the edge, if the angle is too steep, or if the pressure is a little too heavy.
1. Does it matter the speed of the strokes?
When first learning to do this, SLOW is always safer. Keep it slow enough to make certain you have complete control of angle and pressure. The speed will come with experience, as you get better at the 'feel' of convexing.
2. How often should I switch sides of the Blade?
I place a greater emphasis on keeping a very close eye on the edge, and how it's changing after every 2 or 3 passes. Finding a specific 'number' of strokes to make, before switching sides, is basically arbitrary, because so much depends on the steel, the condition of the edge, the abrasive, the technique, etc. Just make sure to watch closely what's happening at the edge, to make sure your efforts aren't counter-productive. Keep a balance between each side, obviously, but don't rely too much on a specific number. You'll sort of figure that out, as you go.
3. How long should I stay on one Grit, or Compound?
Same as above. For the first stage (coarsest grit), don't move on until the edge has been completely apexed. That usually involves watching for the formation of a burr along the full length of the edge. When you see that, flip the blade over and do enough passes to make the burr 'flip' to the other side. Then you're ready for the following grit stages. The subsequent stages will serve to reduce & remove the burr, and refine the scratch pattern from the previous grit.
(Edited to add: 'Refining the scratch pattern' means making the 'coarse' scratches uniformly 'medium', and the 'medium' scratches uniformly 'fine', the 'fine' into uniformly 'extra-fine', etc. When the scratch pattern is uniformly appropriate to the grit you're currently using, that's the time to move to the next grit.)
4. Should I start at 400 grit now, then 600, to 1000, 2000, Black, Green.
Since the edge is currently dull/rolled, 400 is probably good to start. Don't move beyond that until you can see that the edge is apexed and/or the burr has formed. Then move on up the grit chain, using progressively lighter pressure as you go. Remember, the following stages (after the coarse) are just about removing the burr and refining the edge. That needs to be done gently.
5. How should I approach the unknown rolled edge.
'Unknown' is the key. Make it known. The best way to do that, is to actually inspect the edge under good magnification (at least 10x, and much more if you can get it) and very good lighting. Done this way, it becomes a lot clearer what's going on at the edge (rolled, not fully apexed, multiple bevels at varying angles, etc.). Inspect the full length of the edge, from ricasso all the way to the tip. The ricasso and tip are usually the last to finally 'get there', so pay special attention to them. I'm absolutely certain, just about everyone would benefit by using good magnification to inspect the edge as they go. It eliminates a whole lot of the 'unknown' about what's going on.
