Fallkniven F1 or Bark River Gameskeeper

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Sep 8, 2005
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Here is the situation. My brother was in for Thanksgiving and told me he already had mine and our dad's Christmas presents bought and he told me I could pick which one I wanted. He bought a Fallkniven F1 and a Bark River Gameskeeper and that I could choose which one I wanted for Christmas. The only catch is I will have to wait till Christmas to get it. Any suggestions on which one to choose and why? Anyone have both of them?
 
I think I will use this knife for a general purpose hiking and backpacking knife. I will use it for general camping chores. I thought I might use it to make some snares and traps as well.

Which one would you choose Cliff, or which one do you feel is the better knife?
 
Both are very nice knives. I'd choose based on aesthetics / handle material.

-Bob
 
Wow, what a decision. They're both good knives. I think I'd probably have to flip a coin, unless the Gameskeeper was in one of the handle materials I didn't find attractive.
 
First of all, you've got a great brother!

Both knives are great, but have a few differences. The Fallkniven is stainless, while the Barkie is A2 carbon steel. So if you like stainless, go with the Fallkniven, if you like carbon steel go with the Bark River.

I don't like the rubber handles on Fallknivens, in fact that's the only reason why I own just one. If the Gameskeeper has some nice handle material, it would be my choice, hands down. I love it's classic look and A2 is a killer steel.
 
Both are great knives - you can't lose!

Personally, I would go with the Gameskeeper - I like carbon steel, BRKT does great work, and they have an unbeatable guarantee. Plus they are amazingly sharp!

But again, this is a "win-win" decision!
 
Which one would you choose Cliff, or which one do you feel is the better knife?

This is an interesting choice because the knives are fairly different. The biggest point of contention is that the F1 will have more steel around the edge. Both of them run full convex grinds but Fallkniven runs them more convex so there is a heavier edge curvature and they also apply a secondary edge bevel. Personally I would just add an edge relief to the F1 specific to my demands, however if you are not going to do this then for most wood craft you will see a benefit to the thinner edges on the Bark River.

However there are some factors on the F1 which compensate. Note the large choil on the Gameskeeper, that isn't something that you want for wood working in general, outside of really precise work. If you work with your finger in the choil you are basically working on a horrible handle shape because it is a piece of flat bar stock and at best is radiused, the guard as well looks to present a less than ideal resting point for the finger. It is a high pressure spot, has little security, control, etc. .

This would cancel out the inherent cutting ability advantage for significant carving (roughing wood to shape, pointing and similar). So I would look at handle considerations to decide and the F1 takes it there easily as the grip is more secure and the extended tang provides a point to hammer with and on and this is useful in a lot of wood working. Fallkniven themselves, through Peter, does a lot of such pommel impacts for various tasks such as splitting wood, felling wood, cutting to length, etc. .

The stock thickness of the Gameskeeper is also more than a little absurd considering the length of the knife. You really only need that thickness in a small parang which is designed for thick wood chopping and most of them are even a bit slighter as they are usually 0.2" or so. The spine thickness isn't a huge drawback to a lot of wood work though as that tends to be more focused with the cross section at the edge directly, but it would limit the performance of the knife pretty severely for general utility. The only real reason for this would be if you do a lot of thumb/finger on spine cutting and need the extra width for ergonomics.

In terms of steels there is a large difference as VG-10 is a high carbide stainless and A2 a relatively low carbide tool steel. Expect a greater ease of sharpening A2 to a high polish but if you run mainly coarse edges then it won't have a significant advantage mainly as it is significantly underhardened in the Bark River knives.

In short, I'd buy the F1 for those tasks you describe but these knives are so different and there is some give and take in performance that it would not be unexpected to have opinions swap. In contrast if you asked about something like the RD6 vs F1 you would expect a much more lopsided responce as those knives are built to almost completely different goals.

Whichever one you go with I'd be interested in an email with your persepctive after you give it some use.

-Cliff
 
I can't rave enough about their VG10 and convex edge. I have a small WM1 in full VG10 (not core) and it is bar none the best edge I have seen. Yet, I have not played with the other knife you're thinking about; just know that the Fallkniven will NOT let you down.
 
[. Both of them run full convex grinds but Fallkniven runs them more convex so there is a heavier edge curvature and they also apply a secondary edge bevel. Personally I would just add an edge relief to the F1 specific to my demands, however if you are not going to do this then for most wood craft you will see a benefit to the thinner edges on the Bark River.] Quoted from Cliff

I have a laminated steel F1 and it is only convexed at the edge not the primary grind.

Sorry Cliff, first time using the quote function. Screwed it up obviously.
 
I have a laminated steel F1 and it is only convexed at the edge not the primary grind.

Thanks for the details. I have used the origional flat ground F1's and some years later the line was changed to convex primary grinds which I discussed with Peter awhile back as to their exact nature. I have used a H1 with that configuration. Have they changed again or are some of the knives flat ground or is yours a variant?

-Cliff
 
Just put a straight edge on the primary grind of my F1 and sure enough it is a convex grind. Be it very subtle but it is there, I guess I just didn't look closely enough the first time I did it. Seems much more subtle than my Barkies. Sorry for the misinformation everyone. Thanks Cliff.
 
I use the F1 as a survival knife for flying, so I've not used it yet, but I really like it and from what I've read on this board its a great all around choice.
 
I have 2 F1's. They are outstanding working knives for the outdoors.
 
As previously stated, they are both good knives. I'd pick the Bark River though, because I like the looks better and whatever handle material it has will be superior to thermorun on the F1.
 
I am going to go for the F1, he let me look at it and it is the F13G which is the powder steel. Now, I cannot wait till Christmas time. Thanks for all the help guys.
 
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