Fallkniven NL3, A2, A1 or S1?

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DrIndianaJones

Joined
Oct 29, 2012
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102
Hi Memebers. I was just wondering what peoples opinions were on super-tough medium large to medium survival knifes. I considered choosing from the following group: Fallkniven; NL3, A2, A1 and S1.

Firstly I read the A2 and A1 are 'almost' full tang, but I'm not sure about the NL3 in this department.

Next is blade thickness. From Fallkniven's description of the A2 it would appear that it is built tougher than the A1, but given the specs I dont think it is. The A2 is the same thickness as the A1 at 6mm, yet it is longer at blade 8", where A1 ia blade 6.3", so you would assume the A2 is more vulnerable. The NL3 on the other hand is shorter than both, at blade 5.9" and thicker at 6.5mm so I would assume this is the strongest of these knifes.

Just to through a spanner in the works, I am also considering the S1. I know it is not as strong as the other 3, but I like the fact that it is full tang, is sufficiently strong at 5mm thick and is quite compact blade 5.1", yet capable of light chopping tasks.

Any expert suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
 
Well, facts are that NL3 is 6 mm spinethickness, not 6,5 mm.
Also the standard S1 is hidden tang as the A1 and A2.
The S1 and A1 are also made as fulltang bladeblanks for homebuilt handles.

The NL 3 also has a hidden tang but with a pommelnut.
All tangs are strong enough for the intended use.
If You use a knife as a prybar, there's always a risk for breakage.

On the Fällkniven homepage, there are graphs showing breaking strenght for their basic models.
I don't know of any other company that shows figures and testmethods like this.

Regards
Mikael
 
Last edited:
Mikael W said:
Well, facts are that NL3 is 6 mm spinethickness, not 6,5 mm.
Also the standard S1 is hidden tang as the A1 and A2.
The S1 and A1 are also made as fulltang bladeblanks for homebuilt handles.

The NL 3 also has a hidden tang but with a pommelnut.
All tangs are strong enough for the intended use.
If You use a knife as a prybar, there's always a risk for breakage.

On the Fällkniven homepage, there are graphs showing breaking strenght for their basic models.
I don't know of any other company that shows figures and testmethods like this.

Regards
Mikael
Click to expand...

Hi Mikael.

Excellent information. Yes I stand corrected NL3's blade is 6mm- same as A1.

Can you clarify for me: On Fallkniven website they say A1 is "almost full tang", where as S1 is "full tang". In order to get an A1 (A2 and S1) in full tang, does one need to buy the skeleton blade and add a custom handle, or is the A1 just as strong and full tang in standard form with craton hanlde (I like the standard or factory knifes)? So in other words the A1, A2 and S1 are full tang in standard form and one and the same piece of the pommel, but hidden by the handle?

This would clarify for me as my knowledge is not good on tangs :confused:
 
Mikael W said:
Well, facts are that NL3 is 6 mm spinethickness, not 6,5 mm.
Also the standard S1 is hidden tang as the A1 and A2.
The S1 and A1 are also made as fulltang bladeblanks for homebuilt handles.

The NL 3 also has a hidden tang but with a pommelnut.
All tangs are strong enough for the intended use.
If You use a knife as a prybar, there's always a risk for breakage.

On the Fällkniven homepage, there are graphs showing breaking strenght for their basic models.
I don't know of any other company that shows figures and testmethods like this.

Regards
Mikael
Click to expand...

Hi Again Mikael.

I checked out the breakage tests. Wow! very interesting, not many manufacturers publish this!

I noticed with the tests they say laminated and some dont. For example there were two tests for the F1 and they noted the A2 was laminated. I am confused both VG10 and 3G are laminated right, so are they referring to mainated 3g or vg10 with F1. Maybe these tests are old and non-specific non-laminated blades were past Fallkniven models tested.

What do you think this means. I'm guessing vg10 was tested and not 3g with the F1?

In any event this was most helpful in giving me an idea of what model to choose!

Lastly I have ALWAYS wondered, do you think that the NL series e.g. NL3 is stronger than its nearlest rival A1; and similarly the NL4 stronger than the S1 due to possibly better treated steels??? Whats you're view on this?

Cheers,
Indy
 
DrIndianaJones said:
Hi Mikael.

Excellent information. Yes I stand corrected NL3's blade is 6mm- same as A1.

Can you clarify for me: On Fallkniven website they say A1 is "almost full tang", where as S1 is "full tang". In order to get an A1 (A2 and S1) in full tang, does one need to buy the skeleton blade and add a custom handle, or is the A1 just as strong and full tang in standard form with craton hanlde (I like the standard or factory knifes)? So in other words the A1, A2 and S1 are full tang in standard form and one and the same piece of the pommel, but hidden by the handle?

This would clarify for me as my knowledge is not good on tangs :confused:
Click to expand...

I'll try to clarify.
Yes, if You want fulltang You will have to get the BS1 or BA1 blanks.
The S1, A1 and A2 with black rubberhandles are all hidden tangs with protruding pommels.
A2 is only availible with hidden tang.

I'll add two pics.
The first is the A1 with the fulltang blank and the A1 with hidden tang stripped from the rubbergrip.
The S1 is also availible in these two models.

The second is the NL4 tang disassembled, showing the tang and the various pieces of the handle.
All NL's are built this way.

View attachment 311510

View attachment 311511

Some dealers in the US , has contracted a maker to put scales on the blanks in order to offer fulltang customs in fancy materials.

Hope this clears things up.:)

Regards
Mikael
 
DrIndianaJones said:
Hi Again Mikael.

I checked out the breakage tests. Wow! very interesting, not many manufacturers publish this!

I noticed with the tests they say laminated and some dont. For example there were two tests for the F1 and they noted the A2 was laminated. I am confused both VG10 and 3G are laminated right, so are they referring to mainated 3g or vg10 with F1. Maybe these tests are old and non-specific non-laminated blades were past Fallkniven models tested.

What do you think this means. I'm guessing vg10 was tested and not 3g with the F1?

In any event this was most helpful in giving me an idea of what model to choose!

Lastly I have ALWAYS wondered, do you think that the NL series e.g. NL3 is stronger than its nearlest rival A1; and similarly the NL4 stronger than the S1 due to possibly better treated steels??? Whats you're view on this?

Cheers,
Indy
Click to expand...

A1 fulltang has to be the strongest, as there is more steel in it.
I do believe all models are strong enough for their intended use as knives.

The tests shows results for lam. VG-10 and solid VG-10.
No more data has been revealed,but FK claims the 3G steel to be far superior to VG-10.

The heat treatment has to be the same and there's always testsamples and a protocole with every batch.

Regards
Mikael
 
Mikael W said:
I'll try to clarify.
Yes, if You want fulltang You will have to get the BS1 or BA1 blanks.
The S1, A1 and A2 with black rubberhandles are all hidden tangs with protruding pommels.
A2 is only availible with hidden tang.

I'll add two pics.
The first is the A1 with the fulltang blank and the A1 with hidden tang stripped from the rubbergrip.
The S1 is also availible in these two models.

The second is the NL4 tang disassembled, showing the tang and the various pieces of the handle.
All NL's are built this way.

View attachment 311510

View attachment 311511

Some dealers in the US , has contracted a maker to put scales on the blanks in order to offer fulltang customs in fancy materials.

Hope this clears things up.:)

Regards
Mikael
Click to expand...

Hi Mikael,
All this makes perfect sense to me now and thanks for you're pictures. I now understand what is meant by true full tang. I thought it meant that it protruded all the way to the end of the handle, but it seems it can also include the verticle breadth of the tang as well.

I agree the standard A1 is strong enough for the knifes intended purpose, even as a heavy duty knife.

Thanks also for clearling up the VG10 vs straight VG10 steels used in the testing and confirming my heat treat question.
 
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IIRC, I think there's some commentary somewhere that the A1 tests stronger than the A2 due to length. The A2 has the disadvantage of more leverage in attempting to break it.

I don't think any of the Fallknivens would be considered a bad choice. You should look at it as personal preference in the design.
 
the last comment is completely correct! you just can't go wrong with them... i have the F1, A1 and S1 all for different reasons and they are all beasts.. if you break any of them, you have misused the knife. pick one you like and get it... you won't be dissapointed.
 
I like F1 and A1 combo.
F1 perfect for small tasks
A1 perfect for big tasks like batoning

s1 is nice but too small for batoning and F1 can do all of the small tasks better
a2 is big and heavy A1 can baton just es well
nl3 is too expensive and has a rat tail instead of full tang
 
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Last three posts are almost a year after the rest of the thread. Please watch the dates you're responding to.
 
Why does it matter how long the period between responses to a thread, the information is still relevant.

Carrying on, I carry a combination of the A2 and ESEE 3 and that's perfect for completing any task.
The A2 is a beast of a knife and will not fail you carrying out any task in the bush you could think of.
The A1 is also a very capable knife and given the large price difference between the 2 knives its probably a more attractive
Option for most.
 
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