Fallkniven northern light series

Nope, don't use one, but took a look at them and they look like a nice series of blades. Which one are you thinking of getting?
 
Perhaps my favorite, most used knife is a Falkniven F1, and second is a WM1. The Norther Light series has a bit better finish, and, obviously, stacked leather handles. I just don't care for stacked leather on any knife -- just a personal quirk. I like the kraton on the F1. It's sticky w/o being too sticky, and it fits my small-ish but thick hands.

I can't enough good things about the WM1, either. It is an incredibly competent small blade, and carries really easily. I have a traditional dangle sheath as well as kydex. I shortened the belt loop on the dangler, so the sheath fits perfectly in my back pocket while secured to my belt.

If you buy one, for gods sake don't take a converntional sharpening stone to them for anything more than light touch up. They are full convex ground, and are easily sharpend on a mouse pad and and wet/dry emery papers.
 
Usually 600, going to 1200, then to 1500. They shine, and they cut. You can do a final few swipes on a VERY fine ceramic. I have one that is about like a hard arkansas that I've used for years.

The thing is that you don't want to sharpen on the flat enough to change the geometry -- it's too hard to get back.
 
I use 600 and 1500 on my NorthStar. Do you think it worthwhile adding the 1200 grit?
 
Longbow:

No - I do not. If you can jump from 600 to 1500, more power to you. I think that just shows that you are doing a really good job a 600. If you jump that much, it may well wear out that much cloth that much faster.

There is a sort of zen about worn out cloth. 600 can act like 1000 or 1200 - I do not agree, because it is not predictable, I do it, too, but I am young and dumn.

All these pundits talk about shaving this and shaving that ... does it cut on what YOU want to cut, for as long as you want?

I have access, now, to a 4" width capacity belt sander which I can load with any grit/composion I want, with enough capacity to make it slack. Trouble is, I have only a general idea about how to set the slack w/o ruining a good piece of steel. I can visua;lize and kind of feel the pressure needed to do a r-erind on a machine.

I can SEE the profile as it should emerge, but going from stock edge is scary. Is there any advice, other than just do it [apart from temp control]
 
It's the best cutting blade I have ever used. It's almost scary how easily it cut up the box that our 27" TV came in. No push or draw on the cut, just a slight amount of pressure on all four corners, top to bottom, was almost like slicing a piece of typing paper. Almost no resistance. The look on my daughters man friends face said it all. The boy was in awe. :eek: :D Yeah man, I do like a full convex blade.
 
Hi All, I use the Thor and Frej models and they are the business when it comes to cutting!!!!! nicely made and finished and seriously sharp. top drawer.
 
randjack said:
If you buy one, for gods sake don't take a converntional sharpening stone to them for anything more than light touch up.
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Fallkniven actually recommends a flat benchstone for sharpening. While the primary grinds are convex, they have secondary v-ground edge bevels. The stand Kraton line does anyway, both H1's I got recently were this way and it is how the literature describes them.

There has not been a lot of use of them reported here, all that stands out in momeory is a trial where one was ran on some wood and took severe edge damage. There is a Fallkniven forum on Knifeforums.com where you can probably find more commentary.

-Cliff
 
Cliff, that "instruction" from Falkniven is one line long, and so abreviated as to be meaningless. Looking at them under magnification revealed only a miniscule secondary bevel -- perhaps 0.1mm. At least on mine, an older F1 and a new WM1. After a few swipes on 1500 grit, they are true full convex.

Some believe that the Falkniven grinds are simply too thick, that the primary should be carried up much higher to the spine. I don't agree. I think that if you want a knife that acts like a Mora, get a Mora. If you want something more robust, I like the Falknivens. the KF forum is down as I write this, but I don't recall anything talking about edge damage in anything approaching normal use.
 
randjack said:
Cliff, that "instruction" from Falkniven is one line long, and so abreviated as to be meaningless.
Click to expand...

It is a full page on their website :

http://www.fallkniven.com/vassakniv.html

Looking at them under magnification revealed only a miniscule secondary bevel -- perhaps 0.1mm.
Click to expand...

Both of my H1's had a bevel clearly visible by eye, they are hand sharpened so I would assume considerable variance would exist. Maybe the models are different as well.

...but I don't recall anything talking about edge damage in anything approaching normal use.
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It was here on Bladeforums, it was just wood work.

-Cliff
 
The problem with secondary v-grind edge bevels is they will thicken as the steel is sharpened away. This is true especially on a flat grind. I convex my secondary bevels on all grinds, hollow, flat and convex. They are stronger and stay sharper longer. Stropping will help maintain their keeness.
Scott
 
Sharpening a secondary edge bevel will thicken the edge profile with time, it happens faster with convex vs flat vs hollow with similar height grinds on the same stock. I would need to hone a 1/4" off the edge of my small sebenza before it would be ~0.025" thick.

On the Fallkniven's convex grinds this thickening will be a slow process as well because they grind the edges very thin, essentially full grinds to the edge and hone back. With a full 1/16" strip of metal off the edge of the blade, the edge would still be just ~0.025" thick.

The user of course can just deal with edge thickening with use of relief grinds.

-Cliff
 
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