Fallkniven S1 vs Busse Basic 5

Photog · Feb 26, 2001

Since these two knives are very similar (the busse is a little thicker), does anyone feel strongly either way that one is significantly better than the other? Is the Busse stronger because of it's thickness, or are they both pretty much equal for all practical purposes? Does one have a better handle (more durable, less slippery) than the other?

Also, can either of these knives be rehandled easily? I would much prefer a micarta grip.

Thanks for any advice.

Photog

Griffon · Feb 27, 2001

Originally posted by Photog:
Since these two knives are very similar (the busse is a little thicker), does anyone feel strongly either way that one is significantly better than the other?

The S1's exposed tang can be an advantage if you're using some techniques.

Is the Busse stronger because of it's thickness, or are they both pretty much equal for all practical purposes?

Does Busse say how strong it is? They're ground a bit differently, even if they were made of the same steel, you couldn't compare just based on thickness.

Also, can either of these knives be rehandled easily?

Your problem here will be drilling holes in the tang, which is hardened. Not impossible, but I think you'll need an oil cooled drill for it.<img src="http://www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/knives/.1x1knives.gif" alt="" height=0 width=0>

Sergiusz Mitin · Feb 27, 2001

I can't say something like "Fällkniven S1 is better" because I have never handled Busse Basic 5. Here I have expressed my opinion on S1. As far as it could be considered comparing specifications S1 is winner in rust resistance matter. It is reasonably priced. It is fairly strong, please visit Test section at www.fallkniven.com I couldn't find suitable data for comparison on Busse Combat knives.

Griffon

Your problem here will be drilling holes in the tang, which is hardened. Not impossible, but I think you'll need an oil cooled drill for it.

Certainly it will not be the easiest job, rather I would advise you against this trial. Here I have described my clumsy trial to drill 3 mm thick AUS-6M (only!) hardened tang. VG-10 steel is much harder and tougher and S-1 tang is 5 mm thick. After you will remove original handle you will not have any way to escape. If you will found drilling impossible or too expensive as to benefit - the knife will be wasted irreparably.

Lukers · Feb 27, 2001

Hey Photog,
To put a new handle on, it isn't necessary to drill holes in the handle. Get yourself a block of micarta and drill an area out in it so the Busse tang can fit it. Then get a good apoxy (Jb weld is what I use for the knives I make). After that you can grind away the excesses micarta and custom fit it to your hand. write back with any questions
later
Luke

Photog · Feb 27, 2001

Thanks for your responses. Great review, Sergiusz! Lurkers, I'm not skilled enough to rehandle the knife myself, but was wondering if it could be done. Thanks for the info.

Photog

Cliff Stamp · Feb 28, 2001

Both of the blades are very strong, both in regards to the tip and the main body of the blade. While the Busse may be a little thicker, the S1 has a more obtuse grind and stainless steel is very strong. I would bet on the S1 to have a greater break strength than the Busse, but again both are very strong and will easily handle very heavy work .

In regards to corrosion, VG-10 being a stainless steel will resist rust better than M-INFI in the Basic. However I have never had any problems with INFI of M-INFI in regards to rust with only light care. The worse has been some light spots of black oxide after long term exposure to salt water (soaking for hours).

The Basic will likely have better edge retention because of the Nitrides in the steel as well as the increased toughness. However the S1 is hardly poor in this regards it will do a lot of work before it needs to be touched up. It however does come with a convex bevel, which you can however easily convert to a flat one with a little work.

There will be a large difference in toughness. I have seen both INFI and M-INFI survive a lot of high impact work and flexing that would not bode well for a 59-61 RC stainless steel which are brittle and not that flexible. This is fairly extreme work though you have to be making contact with the blade with very hard objects or doing a *lot* of lower stress work (chopping / prying).

I would expect the Basic to outcut the S1 significantly simply because it has a thinner primary grind and has a lightly dropped handle. However the edge bevels may decide that which means if you are willing to do about 15 minutes work with a coarse stone, they will both cut at nearly the same rate.

The grips are very different, Kraton is not as durable in regards to wear and tear nor chemical attacks. It is also more abrasive than the Busse Combat grip, but slightly more secure becuase of the same reason. Neither grip is that secure when it is oiled/soaped but both are functional when wet.

Both blades impressed the hell out of anyone I showed them to (Basic #7, S1).

Busse Combat blades carry a full warrenty, the Fallkniven ones do not (I think there is a time and abusive clause).

-Cliff

[This message has been edited by Cliff Stamp (edited 02-28-2001).]

foofytr · Feb 28, 2001

I have handled both the Busse and the Fallkniven S1 but never put them through their paces as an out door survival knife. I vote for the Fallkniven were I to need one for this sort of work. Fallkniven also for a time issued a flagship knife with a full tang top quality micarta handle. It isn't an S1, slightly larger, but would save a guy trying to put his own handle on when the factory job is perfect. I have the micarta handled Fallkniven NIB. Due to its being a limited issue short run, it costs a bit more than the standard issue handled Fallknivens, but in my book is worth every penny. I would trust the Fallkniven with my life if I HAD TO.

Griffon · Mar 1, 2001

Originally posted by Cliff Stamp:
The grips are very different, Kraton is not as durable in regards to wear and tear nor chemical attacks.

The S1 isn't one of the Fällknivens with Kraton, it's got Thermorun E. (Kraton on A1 and H1.)<img src="http://www.canit.se/%7Egriffon/knives/.1x1knives.gif" alt="" height=0 width=0>

Cliff Stamp · Mar 2, 2001

Griffon, thanks for the correction. I didn't notice any difference in durability in the handles, but there may be a significant difference in resisting chemical attacks (deet and such).

-Cliff