Farm Knife = Chopper?

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Sep 8, 2010
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Hey guys. Great forum. This is my first post, obviously. but I've been lurking for a few months.

So I finally talked myself into the idea of trying a HI khukuri. At the higher price tag though, I knew I'd only buy one, at least for the foreseeable future. So I really wanted to make sure whichever one I chose fit my needs perfectly. My goal was a bomb-proof chopper for hiking/camping/survival. So toughness was key but weight/bulk was also something of a concern. Anyway, I was mostly looking at the CAK or the M43. Then I started seeing pics and reviews of the Farm Knife. It sounded to be a great all arounder, it was a little lighter, and it was just diferent. It had character. So I ordered one, maybe a little impulsively. I don't really know why, after patiently weighing my options for so long. But it just really grabbed me.

Anyway, it should arive soon, and I've been very excited. But then yesterday I stumbled across this thread:
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=653192
Reading that really took the wind out of my sails? Like I said before, my main criteria was a tough-as-nails chopper. And now I feel like I really should have stuck with my original idea of either the CAK or M43. So I ask, did I just blow my budget on the wrong tool? I mean, is the Farm Knife really unintended for field use? Is that list maybe a little out of date? If I did miss the mark, how far off am I do you think? A little? A lot?
 
Well, you say "bomb-proof chopper".

What do you want to chop.

The items not on the "field use list", are fine for lighter vegetation, perhaps wood up to wrist sized (although the warranty would indicate this to be "field use" as well) -- but Yangdu is the final arbiter on that, NOT anyone else, so I'd ask her, exactly what it can do heavy-use wise.

If it's any consolation, that was derived from the knife in Rambo IV, which in turn was based on a very common knife in Burma. To the Burmese, that type of knife is to them what the kukri is to the Nepali. So, personally, I'd have no reservations using it as a camp knife, even chopping bamboo and softwoods. If you have to chop hardwoods, I would either baton the knife, so you don't put a huge shock load on the edge, see about flipping the knife, or see if Yangdu will do a partial trade for something more appropriate.

If you want something fairly light, but on the "field use" list, the WWII is one of the lighter models (in fact, it was too light for my tastes, and I sold mine), and for a more knife-like blade, I wholeheartedly endorse the Ang Khola Bowie.

Just understand that "bombproof" and "light" don't play well together.

If you want the most bombproof, maybe one of the shorter (like 16.5") CAKs would do.

ETA: unless I'm sure I know what I want, I email Yangdu and tell her exactly what I want the blade to do, and what weight range I'd like to get it in, and handle material and such, and ask her to tell me what would be best suited.
 
Sorry, I guess I was a little vague. I was originally hoping for a compromise between machete and hatchet, but that really could reasonably fill the roll of a hatchet. Light to heavy camp use, up to chopping thick branches, including hard wood, for fire, shelter, etc.

Can you define "lighter vegetation"? That sounds pretty close to the function of a machete. Which of course I already own, is twice as long, and is half the weight.
I hope that doesn't sound snarky. I really just want to make sure I understand.

It does sound like you're confirming my fears. And that's fine. I appreciate the honest input. I'm sure it I'll keep it, and enjoy it. And maybe get a CAK, and M43, or perhaps the WWII, down the road, for more serious chopping.

I'd still be very curious of any input from Farm Knife owners. Especially those that have put them through the paces.
 
First, Welcome aboard Riddle of Steel (a Robert E. Howard "Conan" reference?). Cpl Punishment is right in recommending the 16.5" CAK as your "bombproof" chopper. Guaranteed for prybar use and the one I have weighs a hair less than my Farm Knife. It's a good choice for the hatchet replacement chopper and does so much more. I haven't put my Farm Knife through paces yet so I'll let others comment on that. Lighter vegetation is machete use stuff. The CAK is a little too much for lighter vegetation while Sirupati's, Chainpuri's and the like are better suited for the lighter stuff and can still chop for you. If weight is a consideration for you, I believe that the CAK can also be found in the 15" size or you can let Yangdu know what you want regarding length/weight and she'll let you know what she's got.

It sounds as though the Farm Knife chose you as Uncle Bill so often said a knife would do. If so you may not want to trade it once you get it in hand. If you really feel that you may have made the wrong decision, contact Yangdu and let her know. She is always willing to help and will probably swap you if you're willing to ship it and pay any difference in model price. Whatever your choice, I know that you'll enjoy your first HI. Just be safe and hang onto your wallet. You can't have just one.
 
Welcome:)

While the Farm Knife might not be included on the list of "field use", keep in mind it's a very new knife.

It's 3/8" thick and full tang construction. It's going to chop through pretty much anything. However, keep in mind that the edge on these tend to be much thinner than the really beefy khuks and the tip is much pointier.

As long as you don't chop and twist, you'll be fine:) I delimbed about 9 trees with mine over the weekend. Chopped through an 8" log (just to say I could) and my hands are certainly worse for ware than my FK.

Just treat it with respect and it will outlast you and your grandkids;)

I adore the FK. It's my go-to HI product these days:)
 
I wouldn't worry about it. I want one for your exact reasons. At 3/8" thick I don't care how thin the edge is etc it should be able to handle anything you could throw at it. Like mentioned, just don't chop and twist. I've used machetes pretty roughly to chop and even split wood. they have thin edges and I've yet to damage one of those. I personally would be very disappointed if the farm knife can't handle "field use".
 
I homed in on a Foxy Folly for a khukuri with good chopping power, but having a thin enough spine to perform machete work as well. I find it to be in a similar boat, in that it's not "field use" approved, but can still take a beating with a smile. I believe it is now my all-time favourite khukuri. Just don't abuse the Farm Knife and you should be fine.
 
Hey there mate - guy who drew up the design here to chime in :p

The FK is a great all around tool and in the couple of months I've had it, I've done quite a number of things with it: chopped some 2 by 4s, batoned some knotty firewood, helped a friend's grandfather limb a couple trees (branches up to about the size of my forearm), hacked up a downed tree about 5-6" in diameter, sliced and diced up veggies for meals, and helped my mother take down a springy butterfly bush to name a few activities. I'd say those latter two are what it really excels at when compared to a kukri - the much thinner edge can bite and slice into things that the thicker blade of the kukri would tend to push away or split apart.

It's a great blade and I think would fit your intended usage quite well. As for the concerns about the warranty, it hasn't been updated for awhile but even then, I think it would be foolish from a business perspective to warranty this knife for field usage. Not even the sirupatis and other such kukris are warrantied for it, even though they have a more durable and thicker edge. The concern is primarily about to the very thin edge of the FK, especially at the tip - in all honesty, if I had known that my drawing would end up getting turned into an actual design, I think I would have made it a bit less thin at the tip.

That all said, I don't really think too much about the warranty or what items it covers. I gauge the task I'm about to use the blade for and then consider whether it's within its limits. Due to the overbuilt nature of most HI items, I've yet to come upon a task that I didn't think my blade could stand up to. The only time I think the warranty ever needs to get called into play is when the product's failure is obviously due to a poor heat treat (too hard/brittle) and chips out - and if that's the case, Aunty will know just from assessing a picture and generally make it right regardless of what model it is.

Here's a couple pointers I have for you:
1) First off, thicken up the edge a bit by convexing it ever so slightly. The factory edge was shaving sharp when I got it (the only HI product I've ever gotten that was), but more or less a scandi grind, which you really don't want to do chopping with if you want to maintain that edge. It will still be scary sharp, but the difference in edge retention will be quite noticeable.
2) When doing any chopping, do not hit with the last ~3" of your FK - this section is pretty thin and could bend with an improper hit. It also saves this section for finer slicing tasks (read this over if you want to - the same applies for most big blades) and gives mass AHEAD of your chop, making for a deeper bite. I've noticed that the FK doesn't exactly have a super hardened sweet spot, but is instead hardened to about 58ish HRC all throughout the edge. However, it does still have a sweet spot in that there is a center of percussion, and this is at the spot I mentioned before - about 3" before the tip. So really, whether to spare your tip's edge or to get the deepest bite, hitting with this aforementioned area is just good practice.
3) Due to the relatively thin edge, with large mass behind it, you're going to get REALLY deep bites when chopping and the blade will occasionally stick. Just be sure to not put too much lateral strain when getting it out (i.e as others have said, don't chop and twist). The chances of a chip-out is pretty low due to the aforementioned heat treat method, but a bend could still occur just because of the thinness of the edge.
4) This doesn't really apply to me due to my geographical location, but it's something to consider: if you live somewhere with really cold winters and intend to use a blade, it doesn't hurt to first warm it up with your body heat before use. A near frozen blade + sudden stress / temperature difference caused by chopping can do some nasty things, especially to a thinner edged blade like the FK.

Sorry to drone on so much, but I thought you might appreciate my $.02 on the matter. Don't fret so much about the warranty and go get some use out of your knife!
 
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I homed in on a Foxy Folly for a khukuri with good chopping power, but having a thin enough spine to perform machete work as well. I find it to be in a similar boat, in that it's not "field use" approved, but can still take a beating with a smile. I believe it is now my all-time favourite khukuri. Just don't abuse the Farm Knife and you should be fine.

i have a couple foxies, that have chopped through trees - course, i might have gotten exceptional foxies.

then again, i AM annoyed they have been delisted as choppers. they're wicked versatile and quite rugged imho.

the farm knife is also a pattern i've seen used in nepal; in particular, it shows up in the 45 minute khukri video of all places (as a variant), being used to chop hardwood and make handles. go figure :)


Bladite
 
Hell the FK I own is by far the beefiest most rugged chopper I own, and I own several dedicated choppers. This beast will chop all day with the best of them.
 
10-19-10010.jpg


With that large edge and curved up profile...whew..i want to exercise a larger dosage of precaution upon swinging....
(Couldn't find the thread but there was a forumite who nicked his finger on the FK)

Choppa_icon475.jpg
 
Wow. I'm pretty well blown away by all the responses. Thank you everyone.

Even before reading all this feedback, I was thinking about the Farm Knife last night, and I was feeling a kind of ridiculous for my initial panicked post. I began to figure that even if it wasn't the hatchet replacement I was originally looking for, it's still a dynamic and unique design that I'm still excited about, that will undoubtedly stand up to reasonable tasks.

But now, reading all this, I think I'm about three times as excited as I was when I ordered it. Thank you especially killa_concept. I will put the warranty out of my mind, and my Farm Knife will absolutely see some use in the 'field'.

Don't worry though, I will be extra vigilant about safety(Jay), and not twisting the blade(Steely, killa). And I will certainly try follow killa's suggestions about convexing the blade and using the correct blade locations for the correct tasks. On that note, killa, I just read your thread about your convex sharpening rig, and while I now see what I may need, I don't really know how to execute. I'm handy enough with a wet stone, and I'm definitely familiar with the idea of a convex grind, but I'd be pretty well guessing as to the correct technique with sand paper and a mouse pad. I don't suppose you've done a more technical how-to? Or maybe even a vid?

Yes stickfred, Conan reference.

And good work Jay. Arnold made me literally LoL there. I hadn't thought about how all my 'chopper' talk might sound.

Seriously, thanks again everyone for the thorough responses.
 
I really dig the FK, but the talk of a thin tip concerns me. Does anyone have any from-the-top pics of this knife, particularly the down-slope at the tip? Thanks in advance!
 
Don't worry though, I will be extra vigilant about safety(Jay), and not twisting the blade(Steely, killa). And I will certainly try follow killa's suggestions about convexing the blade and using the correct blade locations for the correct tasks. On that note, killa, I just read your thread about your convex sharpening rig, and while I now see what I may need, I don't really know how to execute. I'm handy enough with a wet stone, and I'm definitely familiar with the idea of a convex grind, but I'd be pretty well guessing as to the correct technique with sand paper and a mouse pad. I don't suppose you've done a more technical how-to? Or maybe even a vid?

I've really been meaning to... I in fact got started on page 2 of that thread, but realized that without 3 hands (2 to sharpen and 1 to take pictures), I was going to have a rather difficult time documenting the process. Even then, I probably would need a video to properly illustrate the method - but I don't have a means of recording...

Luckily, unlike a kukri, the FK is just one continuous curve and isn't that much different from sharpening other knives. My desire for making a how-to on kukri sharpening is due largely to the difficulty of sharpening a knife with multiple curves (the recurve, specifically, is difficult for a lot to sharpen). That said, you can get the gist of the idea by the many videos on convex sharpening out there. I'd suggest these videos as a good starting place :)

I really dig the FK, but the talk of a thin tip concerns me. Does anyone have any from-the-top pics of this knife, particularly the down-slope at the tip? Thanks in advance!

Sorry for the crummy shot, but night-time = having to rely on poor lighting.
P1050495.jpg
 
Thanks, killa! Wow, that really does thin out. I'm always concerned with tips, although I've only broke one in my entire life (but it still sucked;)).
 
Thanks, killa! Wow, that really does thin out. I'm always concerned with tips, although I've only broke one in my entire life (but it still sucked;)).

Yep - but I don't think it would ever really present an issue so long as proper technique is used. Even then, I think the tip is more likely to take a bend than break. The very thin tip also allows it to be an AMAZING slicer and chopper all in one package. Whereas you reserve heavy chopping for the area mentioned before, the very last 3" of the blade is so acute that, combined with a slight whipping action and the proper angle of attack, it will go through practically anything regardless of how thin and springy it is :D
 
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