Farrier Rasp Tomahawk

Black Diamond rasp, Tractor Supply if there is one near you or maybe a tack shop.
 
flea markets and ebay being the easiest..Farriers if you have any in your area are he best source..Stay away from cheap import rasps..Try to find names like Nicholson, Bellota and Heller..
 
If you get a good quaility rasp you wont have to weld in a cutting bit..Just fold over the rasp to make the bit..If not then about any high carbon steel will work just fine..Ive used 1075 a lot with good success..
 
I dont know if I have a pic or not but basically you fold about 3" of the rasp onto itself. Then you fold the rest around to form the eye and other cheek..
 
I fold them in half and forge weld all but 1 1/2" at the back and drive my drift thru to open it up. I then shape the blade.
 
What he means is to drill two larger holes for the shoulder lobes, and a smaller hole for the point. Hot cut the metal between the holes and then file the heart to shape.

I make a rasp hawk by folding over about 5-6" of rasp into a "U". I then bring the tips together and flatten them back a bit to make a sort of "duck bill" and eye. I open this back up about 1/4" wide and file the inside of the lips. I slip in a piece of 1/4" 1095 or W2 and forge weld it into the lips so the back of the piece is even with where the eye will be, and the front sticks out about 1". I usually make the piece of HC steel a bit wider than the lips to make the weld easier. The excess is trimmed off after the weld is finished. Remember, " It is easier to take off excess metal than it is to add more metal." If the weld on the inside of the eye looks bad, use a MIG/stick/torch welder to weld it up better. Once completely welded, trim off any excess metal on the sides, file out the front of the inside of the eye with a round file to pre-shape it a bit, then drift the eye to shape. Try and not totally forge out the teeth. Once the eye is right, draw out the bit. Leave the edge about 1/8-3/16" thick. After preliminary shaping on the grinder, grind back the face to expose the edge metal and get the sides even as far as the soft metal ( the rasp) goes. Harden the edge with an edge quench in fast oil, temper, and then finish sanding as desired.
 
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