Favorite blade grinds and steel type

G

Gossman Knives

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Apr 9, 2004
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Lets discuss favorite grinds and type of steel preference. I've used all types of of grinds, flat, hollow and convex. I prefer convex, I feel it stays sharper longer because it's thicker to the edge. At least that is the way I make my knives. A couple of my customers gave me feedback after using them for deer hunting this past fall. Two testimonials, 22 deer skinned, one sharpening, and 8 deer skinned still sharp. I use D-2 cryro treated. I've hunted deer for 20+ years and have taken about 35 deer.I've used all three types of grinds in folders and fixed blades, but I feel the convex cuts longer and bits deeper. As far as steel type, I've settled for D-2 because it's tough and is like the best of both worlds, carbon and stainless because of it's high chromium content and doesn't stain like straight carbon. I haven't tried some of the newer high tech stainless steels out there. What are your opinions on them and the different blade grinds?
 
Gotta go with you on the convex grinds. What could be easier to sharpen? Mousepad with sandpaper and a strop, you're set.

About all the knives I own are SwampRat or Busse, so INFI and SR-101 is what I'm most familiar with. The new Bog Dog is in D2 and I can't wait on that. I do have an older Ramon Pressburger in D2 that Neil Blackwood put the final edge on and it is something else. It also has a convex grind. Scary sharp doesn't even come close. D2 in the smaller blades (5" on down) is about the best thing going. Just don't try and flex it. Lateral strength isn't a strong point, but staying sharp is.

Rob
 
You're absolutely right about sharpening, I forgot to mention that, a old belt and compound is all you need to maintain one of my knives.
 
I favor the flat grinds of my Mili, Calypso and Perrin. They are wicked cutters and touch-up easily. Their S30V and VG-10 steels are superb.
 
Hey RB, could you post a link? I don't get to hunt much anymore, so the place where my knives see the most action (besides work) is in the kitchen. I'm willing to bet D2 for kitchen duties would rule. I do most of the cooking, but my wife finally discovered the Howling Rat with it's deep belly as a paring/general purpose knife.

The only bad thing I can say about D2 is if you let it get seriously dull. Then you're in for a bunch of work, but it's your own fault. That stuff is HARD! Hard to get dull, hard to get sharp again if you let it get that way. Works both ways.

Rob
 
I have little experience with convex grinds, and prefer flat grinds for easy reprofiling.

D2 is great stuff. One thing that hasn't been mentioned about it is that the carbides in the edge form microserrations, making a D2 edge grabby even when it's polished. D2 is definately my favorite for folders. For fixed blades I like tougher steel.
 
It comes down to "Horses for Courses" - if I want a knife for exact cutting in the workshop I have to go with HG esp. the way Bob Dozier does it. For the bush it has to be FLAT ground mainly for ease of sharpening etc. I make knives and my customers want simple no fuss knives they can use on the hunt. Many of them are that used to flat ground they baulk at hollow-ground. As far as CONVEX is concerned there is not a great call for them in OZ - if I mentioned a mousepad a bit of wet and dry they would run for miles. Like HG there are a lot of badly made CONVEX out there and bad experiences turn people off.

As far as steel goes - D2 is king closely followed by A2. I don't think you have to say too much more about these steels - they have stood the test of time.
 
My preference is for a flat grind with a convex edge. That is because the blade is thinner behind the edge than on a full convex blade.

As far as steel is concerned, I will take a top quality high carbon non-stainless any day. D2 is a fine steel, but I prefer steels that are easier to sharpen.
 
ATS 34 and hollow ground are my favorites. I've done well with BG42 and love my CR one piece knives in A2. All are obviously hollow ground.
 
Why does everyone have problems with sharpening D2 - is it because they let them get too blunt or what? I have been working with D2 for sometime now and find that with regular maintenance I have no problems in keeping the edge up. One of the great advantages of D2 is its edge-holding capability but this doesn't mean you don't maintain the edge. My D2 knives visit a smooth steel on a regular basis and would be lucky to see a stone once a year. I suppose if it is a matter of re-profiling you are going to have a bigger job then say O1 but that in my view does not come under the heading of sharpening. It probably comes down to the fact - why buy a good knife if you are going to reprofile it eg I don't know anyone who would want to reprofile a Dozier.
 
For light cutting, such as cardboard or food, I like hollow grinds with a convex edge and prefer M2 (although every stainless steel from AUS-6A to S30V has been good to me); for heavy cutting, flat grinds with a convex edge and a good, low-chromium steel is much appreciated.
 
JDBLADE said:
Why does everyone have problems with sharpening D2 - is it because they let them get too blunt or what?
Click to expand...

Even though it is not hard to keep D2 sharp if you don't let it get to dull, it is still more difficult to do than if you do the same thing with a basic high carbon steel. I can touch up O-1 in a few seconds. It takes me longer to do so with D2.
 
The biggest problem I find with complaints about dull knives of any type steel is the fact that people DO NOT maintain the edge. It takes less time to strop or steel an edge, then it does to wait until the edge gets dull, then struggle to get the edge back. I always hear how hard D-2 is to grind and sharpen. The key is proper heat treatment and to cryro treat D-2 is an absolute plus for edge holding and resharpening. If D-2 blades are not properly heat treated they aren't worth a crap for staying sharp. So anyone who has had a bad experience with a D-2 blade, it was probably not heated right. Something else I wanted to point out about D-2 is that it is a using, working knife steel as it doesn't take a mirror finish. For the collector it's not a good choice.
 
Razorback - Knives said:
Something else I wanted to point out about D-2 is that it is a using, working knife steel as it doesn't take a mirror finish. For the collector it's not a good choice.
Click to expand...

Razor, some folks ( :) ) collect "using" knives - for example U.S. martials. The patina is part of the charm.

I've picked some old butchering knives (but not in the "butcher" pattern) that seem to be D-2 - hard, hard knives that take an excellent edge and hold it. Not stainless but not prone to rust like I would expect from "carbon" -- just turn a nice, even grey. I would think that D-2 would be great for folks who work with a smooth steel at their waist -- slice, slice, hone, hone.
 
With my method of freehanding (with ceramic rod) I tend to have convex edges. I prefer hollow ground blades because they don't scratch up when I'm being stupid and lazy (no tape on the flats) and accidently run the rod along the flats. Hollow grinds seem to suit my needs better, easier to slice things. I don't really need the durability/strength of a flat grind over a hollow grind for my light uses.
 
I guess I was referring to the individual who collects pieces strickly for display and not really for using. I apologize for the misunderstanding,didn't mean to offend anyone. I also like the patina of D-2, that's one of the reasons I like it so much.
 
My preferred blade grind all depends on what the knife is being used for. In general, full flat grinds float my boat just fine, though flat or hollow sabre grinds, particularly recurves, are better for what I use knives for at work. I really like convex, but they're few and far between. Keep meaning to try a couple of those Bark River knives...
On "normal" sized using knives, I like M2, BG42, D2, VG-10, ATS-34/154CM, even AUS-8 all, but prefer S30V as an all-around steel, since it's the best all-around steel, IMO (funny how that works).
 
Gimme a full, thin flat ground blade with a slightly convexed edge anytime. I can live with a thin hollow ground blade too, but have not gotten used to the convex grind yet.
 
I like a full flat grind (like the Spyderco Military and Victorinox SAKs).

My preferred blade-steels are VG-10 and 440C.
These two seem to be the best in compromise between obtaining and holding a very sharp edge, and still being easy to sharpen.

Allen.
 
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