Favorite blade steels?

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Penetration

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Feb 12, 2014
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Something that most knife collectors or users look for first when looking at buying a knife is the blade steel. For me I don't have specific steel I favor more actually I could care less what the steel is, in my opinion a steel that performs well is good steel to me but I know we have you picky types out there that won't buy a knife unless it is made with a certain steel so what is your favorite and preferred steel or steels?
 
So far the carbon steel in my Opinel has performed the best out of everything I put through it's paces.
 
My favorite? The 1095 that Schrade used. Their heat treat and thin grinds made it darn near perfect for me.
 
As far as folders go D2, S30V, 154CM and Elmax. Haven't really used Elmax a lot but it seems to be a solid performer. Also Kershaw's Sandvik, have a few knives in that.
 
protourist said:
My favorite? The 1095 that Schrade used. Their heat treat and thin grinds made it darn near perfect for me.
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I have no personal experience with schrade knives so I cant really agree or disagree but I can sure take your word for it! Might have to pick up one!
 
I really like L6 steel. Rusts easily, but it can take abuse and sharpens up nicely. My favorite stainless steel is CPM154.
 
Personally for me D2, 20CV, and S30V in that order. But in reality any properly heat treated and properly sharpened blade steel is a good steel. Knives are meant to cut, so if it does that well then it's good to me; if I need something more durable than a thin cutting edge then I probably need an axe.
 
Halfneck said:
I really like L6 steel. Rusts easily, but it can take abuse and sharpens up nicely. My favorite stainless steel is CPM154.
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Just because a steel isn't rust proof doesn't mean it can't be prevented or at least make your blade last a little longer. When you first see the signs of rusting its best to get rid of it as quick as possible. I've done research and one weird trick to get rid of rust at its early stages is to take aluminum foil and water and just rub the blade with the aluminum foil with water and it sounds weird but it actually does work I can't really explain how it works but it will.
 
My personal favorite is M390/CTS204P/20CV. 3 versions of essentially the same steel.

I own a Hinderer in 20CV, a Hatcher fixed blade in M390, and an RJ Martin folder in CTS204P.
I've got a Pohan Leu folder in CTS204P and another Hatcher fixed blade in CTS204P on the way soon.
 
CPM154 so far in a folder. Polishes nicely, sharpens easily, takes a very sharp edge, edge lasts reasonably well, and is pretty corrosion resistant. This may be blasphemy around here, but a good crmov steel can do quite well for a very low cost. It just doesn't have any bragging rights. I am currently frustrated with S110V. I like sharpening my knives too much and S110V makes me not want to anymore.

Ask me next week and I'll say something different.
 
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Penetration said:
I have no personal experience with schrade knives so I cant really agree or disagree but I can sure take your word for it! Might have to pick up one!
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If you use a knife for cutting things, you will love it. If you want something to beat on or torture test it's probably not for you.:)
Pick up a good ol' made in the USA Schrade and you will know what I mean.
 
I'm a knife sharpener, so I tend to judge steels more on ability to take a refined edge over performance. I've used quality steels before, such as S30v, s35vn, and sliepner, but becker's 1095cv is my favorite so far.
 
Carbon: 52100/SR-101 is hellaciously tough and holds an edge like a pitbull locked onto your leg.
Stainless: probably AUS-8A until I get my hands on something fancier. Holds a fearsome edge decently and resharpening is a snap.
 
I really love my 154CM blackjack necker, my AUS8 Al Mar Talon, my S30V and VG10 knives, but my absolute favorite to sharpen and maintain is L6.
I have a small collection of Svord peasant knives and a couple EDC neckers he makes and the L6 is easy to sharpen, takes an edge well, cuts like a torch, and maintenance is a quick swipe with mineral oil if needed (I haven't needed it yet, just use it and it patinas fine).
Just my 2 cents.
C
 
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