Favorite whittling blade:)

Spoutz

Spoutz

Joined
Sep 19, 2010
Messages
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Hey guys. I have been using a sheepsfoot blade on my stockman to whittle for a while and it is working great but I have to ask. What makes a slipjoint titled a "whittler" a special whittling knife? Is it just the blade shapes? Also, what is your favorite whittling blade shape? I know there are a few blades you will use in a single project for different things but for general shaping and carving, what is your old standby?

Sorry for the string of questions, just please answer the best you can if you can understand my rant:)
 
I have a number of slip back spring whittlers mainly with spear blade masters and a pen and coping as secondary. I use the coping blade most often for whittling. I have a couple with pointy sheepsfoot blades as masters that also come in handy.

Regards

Robin
 
Not a 100% sure, but I believe since the 'whittler' pattern has two back springs or a single wide spring that is actually split about 1/2 way (to support the other minor blades) support a wider/beefy main blade used for heavy work - it has been given the 'whittler' name. Since I do a bit of whittling (around 30 yrs +/-), the whittler pocket knife is NOT a tool I would recommend to actually use for whittling. It is way too uncomfortable with the two blades digging into your hand or vis-versa when the main blade is closed & using either of the other blades. Now if you are only going to use it for an hour or less, then the 'whittler' pattern is a usable knife due to the three different blade styles. However, the blade configuration can be as different as handle materials. I prefer a wharncliff main blade with a pen & coping blades as my personal favorite configuration. My current stand-by for a pocket knife/whittler isn't a whittler at all but a bulldog brand 'Ground Hog'. For serious carving/whittling, a 1" to a 1 1/2" fixed blade wharncliff is the only way to go - IMHO. (I like the Flexcut forged carving knives)
 
I can't speak for all of them, but the dozen whittler pattern knives I own share one common trait. The secondary blades are very thin compared to other patterns, which makes them better for whittling but not as good for general utilty use. Apart from that, they vary a lot. What I use most depends on what I'm doing, but I seem to use the small clip point blades on my Schrade 804 and Case 6308 the most. I also keep the edges on my designated whittling knives sharpened to very low angles, typically under 20° total included angle.
 
I have found that a carbon steel Wharncliff works best for me. I've been working on and off on a ball in a box..the blade seems to be good at getting in the corners.
 
I usually just whip out a stockman of some sort and go to whittling most of the time I use the sheep's foot blade.
 
I find the wharncliffe blade the most useful for whittling. But more important than blade shape IMO is the way your knife is sharpened. A whittler works best with a zero edge bevel. For this reason I like to whittle with my Eye Brand stockman that has had its blades convexed. Its spey, sheepsfoot, and clip blades go through wood better than anything else I have.

- Christian
 
Christian, I have read that the convex bevel helps push the wood away from the cut better than any other type of edge. Makes sense if you think about it. The radius is always curving away from the cut, lessening friction.
 
I agree Jeff. I actually like to convex the edge of all my knives as I find it the easiest and most efficient way to sharpen. I'm glad that convex edges also work so well.

- Christian
 
Whittling with a convex edge takes some getting used to imo, as you have to adjust the angle from what most of us are, and have always been, accustomed too. You can't have the angle too shallow against the wood or the blade won't bite.
 
I like a knife big enough to hold comfortably for a long period of time
A 4" knife is a full hand grip.
The 3 1/2" whittlers are too small for my average sized hands for longer work
I like the blades to be short enough that I can again comfortably use the point of the blade, without loosing control.
I like for the blades to be thin.
I like a Sheepsfoot for the main cutting and removal and has the obtuse end that works well for detail.
A short pen blade is good for digging reliefs.
The split end of a whitter with a coping and pen is excellent for small litte work with smaller amounts of cutting

If find carbon blades do not hold an edge as long as D2
Carbon gets very sharp but the drop off to dull is to quick
D2 does not get so wicked sharp but gives me a good long holding working edge

So:

Queen Half Congress 4" in D2

The knife shape is long enough to hold comfortably and the belly is good in the hand
A single spring so the blade are thin
The Sheepsfoot is thin and short, big enough to remove waste and easy to use the end of the blade
The pen has nice swedging so the point is sharp and strong

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Queen Split-spring Whittler 3 1/2" in D2

The main blade is on a double spring and is quite thick, to thick for wood removal. Perhaps if I convexed this blade it would work better.
Th knife shape and size is too narrow and short to hold for a long time
The end with the two blades work well for fine detail where you do not have to push or press hard

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Non Slippy carver is a Scandi grind fixed 2 1/2" fixed blade and a 4" wooden handle with a curved blade
 
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