Features?

Mistwalker

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Dec 22, 2007
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There have been a couple of threads on grinds, lengths, and thicknesses lately...but I have learned over the years that I am not as hung up on blades shapes or grinds as much as I am thicknesses and certain features on the knives I'll carry most. Three of these knives are 3/16" and one is 1/4 (and I try very hard not go any thinner than 5/32) but they do all have a couple of common features.

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It may be easier to notice from this angle...they all have at least a small guard and a pommel that I can strike without damaging the handle so that I can do things like chisel into frozen pools for water and chisel notches in wood without tearing up the handle scales, or knocking my hand down onto the blade.

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So...what features are the rest of you hung up on?

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I have both practical features and visual features I care about. Practically, I like a bottom guard, full tang, no coating, no serrations, a relatively flat spine, and a fairly neutral handle, that allows various grips comfortably. I also strongly prefer carbon steel over stainless.

Visually I love the look of sabre grinds and true clip points even if they don't effect performance.
 
Features? It depends on the knife size, IMO. A small knife I prefer it to be thin. Around 1/8 if under 5". I can make exceptions for certain tasks, but it depends. A chopper I much prefer 3/16 or thicker and over an 8" blade. Serrations are also a turn off for me, and avoid them. The handle also must allow for my hand to have enough room for the size of the knife.

As far as grinds.. I can do with any, although I prefer flat/convex on them.
 
I'm with Tony- 1095/01/A2 and a covex grind. Has to be full tang. I do like natural handles on some stuff, though.
 
Comfortable, compact, corrosion resistant cutting power.

Rubber handles are a must:

I like other things but for a utility knife nothing gives me the semi-amphibious feeling that I desire in a knife like a good rubber handle. It's not just that I'm disposed to synthetics either. Rubber can be molded and textured brilliantly or it can be done badly. A nice high traction handle whether wet or dry, covered in slime, blood, whatever, that just rinses off is too user friendly for me to pass up. I think there are loads of great examples from the Swamp Rat Mudder grips, the Rec-C used on their old Camp Tramp [didn't this knife really build Swamp Rat's reputation], the Fällknivens, through to more pedestrian offerings. I don't care about knife fashion and the reasoning that says because rubber molding can be cheaper it is necessarily inferior. There are some shoddy examples off it for sure but I am unperturbed by them. I'd pay extra for rubber handles if it were required. I'd certainly be willing to pay more for a good rubber handle design than I would an identical design in Micarta or G10 let alone FRN or some wood. I judge it by the way it performs for me not the cost of the raw materials or how easy they are to manufacture. Happily rubber handles tend to be cheaper win / win. The only downside is I can't make great ones myself [and that pisses me off no end].

Corrosion resistant:

Opinions seem to vary on this a lot but for me any corrosion sux. I suffer it with impact tools like goloks and axes but the sooner the nanotechnology and glass gets up to speed with this problem the happier I'll be. Meantime some kind of built in corrosion resistance is a must.

Compact:

The handier it is the more likely I am to reach for it. If it feels like a lump I'm not going to want to carry it let alone use it. I have saws and impact tools so I can afford to move away from excess without too much concern. That said, I did wonder how tough my Super Edge would be in ATS 34 at 60. Good hunting knife though.

Cutting Power:

Sharpness doesn't mean that much to me. I take it for granted that I can get things sharp but that doesn't tell me much about how well they will cut stuff. Sure if it is sharp it will cut string better than when it was dull, same with making fuzz sticks or cutting fabric. What sharpness doesn't tell me is how well a blade will completely pass through a medium, whether that be slicing or using it like a wedge.

Pattern spotting:

At the moment I more than happy with my tweaked Boker in 440C. What makes me the happiest is how I somehow mysteriously kept returning to it. I sold it once on a camping trip and about a week after we got home I bought it back. I gave it to mah woman too and she had it for about a year. Then I used it again and missed it loads. I bought her something else as a surrogate and got it back. Before that I used the mighty fine F1, before that a Linder Super Edge, and before that a Cold Steel Master Hunter. There's just something useful about these little black usin' knives that appeals.

I'm now at a point at which I'm not really interested in using anything else and haven't been for quite a long time. I do keep an eye on what is going on though so the merits of the Extrema Ratio Shrapnel are not lost on me. I just have no use for one now. And if I could devise a great rubber handle for the Enzo Camp Knife I'd surely snag a blank at a superb price. Others I like but I just keep coming back to my preferred handle type problem. If it wasn't for that BRKT has a couple of neat looking stainless offerings. Then there's the fantastic looking Spyderco Temperance design, and even though I'm not into Scandis I think their Bushcraft knife with a good rubber handle could have been a real workhorse. Better than pissin' about with eye candy wood anyway. A real world useful one of those may even have swayed me to try one. Rust and rotten wood doesn't. Who knows, may be a better one will come out under the Byrd banner. Folks can all take a punt on a decent usin' Scandi for £30 or so and if they don't like them give them away. The list goes on from the humble Lion Steel MCKF through to numerous handy little Japanese offerings.
 
For me it depends on my set up..... are we talking about a knife as your only tool or as part of a setup?

for a single tool scenario I like a blade 6-8 inches, Carbon steel (1095), Full flat grind. Clip point... and at least 3/16 thick or thicker....

For a primary use knife if I have a dedicated heavy use tool, Than it fot to be 3&1/2 -4&1/2 inch blade1095 Carbon or 12c27 stainless, Full scandi Grind, Nice sharp Mod clip point rounded handle.. WIth a through stick tang.. or full tang
 
Good answers guys thanks.

Mainly Riley I was wondering about particular features you are hung up on period regardless of size of the knife. For me I always judge a knife based on how I would feel about it if it were my only knife. I have certain features I want present regardless of the knife. I am talking fixed blades only though.
 
In general I prefer a bottom guard, flat or convex grind, jimping, choil (in the 6+ inch knives), micarta or G-10 (I can repair easier than natural material), full tang, extended tang, 3/16" or less for anything under 7"...been leaning towards 5/32" for general purpose...thicker up to 1/4" okay for choppers. Not overly hung up on carbon vs. stainless. Most importantly it should come with boobs and lots of money.
 
Gotta have my big belly-I love puukos but don't limit myself to them. As long as the blade has good useable belly I'm fine. I'm also getting picky about grips. A full secure grip is a must, even if it adds to overall weight and length. I also HATE unuseable space between the blade and the grip-it reduces tip and blade control and almost always serves no purpose. Fatty ricassos, unneeded choils and large rounded off scale design are contributors to this. I'm not overly picky on width-I believe blades of widths up to about .25" all have their places depending on the niche that they fill. For big blades, I like multi use design-a durable useable point, a long sweet spot for efficient chopping, and a portion of straight blade for drawknifing and battoning.
 
Hung up on- Full Flat Grind, Scandi Grind for most blades. Also like lanyard holes.
For folders i prefer they be flow through/have liner locks/with flippers/tip up carry/textured panels. Also prefer flippers and/or spyderholes over thumb stud openers.
I avoid knives that are convex, distal tapered, have a sharpened false edge.
Also generally avoid kraton handles but i will make acceptions. I have come to loathe the CRKT auto-lawks lock. Pet peeve-love Spyderco's hate the fact that the specs/models i want often end up being "Sprint Runs", Sprint Runs=twice as expensive as regular runs.
 
Hung up on- Full Flat Grind, Scandi Grind for most blades. Also like lanyard holes....

Thanks, I left that one out. I'm pretty hung up on those myself. I have been for so long now that I forget about it.

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i like carbon steels & 3/16s max on thickness. a small guard & choil are nice. handle material can be any of the decent woods or micarta.bone & stag are just a little less bomb proff. 7 in. max. dennis
 
i like carbon steels & 3/16s max on thickness. a small guard & choil are nice. handle material can be any of the decent woods or micarta.bone & stag are just a little less bomb proff. 7 in. max. dennis

I like choils...or at least unsharpened areas immediately in front of the guard...but I am learning I don't so much have to have them on smaller knives.
 
Blade shape and handle shape are much more important to me than blade thickness. 1/4" and 5/16" only started with all these city guys and the Internet.

Those who's lived depended on tool use 24/7 had thin blades paired up with saws and axes. Knives are meant to be thin, an edge only cuts because it is very thin whereas an axe splits more than cuts.

A flat grind allows an edge to be thinner than a V-grind like on a Kabar.
 
I am hung up on handle thickness and comfort. I like fatter handles that are rounded, with a rounded tail for pounding my hand on, and since I favor wood over synthetic handles, I don't want to bang up the wood too much with a beater stick.
 
I am hung up on handle thickness and comfort. I like fatter handles that are rounded, with a rounded tail for pounding my hand on, and since I favor wood over synthetic handles, I don't want to bang up the wood too much with a beater stick.

H#ll...I don't like to beat up my micarta either, that's why I like the extended tang :)
 
I prefer a stick tang (full is acceptable), natural material handle, carbon steel, 1/8" and a scandi grind.

I dislike choils, guards and stainless steel. I absolutely will not buy a knife with G10 scales.

My biggest pet peeve and the one that has caused me to reject more knives than anything else is a small handle.
 
"form follows function."

soo with that in mind, i can only say that the features i look for vary.

lanyard holes are nice, but not required. i prefer single guards or perhaps no guard over a double guard. rubber grips no longer impress me, not so keen on serrations, a full tang would be preferred for a rough use knife, but not essential on everything. i'm not a huge fan of 440C because i've never had a blade made of it that held an edge well.

the blade has to "look right" for whatever use i'm considering it for.
 
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