stabman
Gold Member
- Joined
- Sep 17, 2007
- Messages
- 21,327
Had 30 year old piece of antler.
Had spring steel.
Had access to forge...and 6 inch pliers?!?!
Time to make a seax.
Here it is prior to heat treat:
There are a bunch of progress shots my brother took, but good luck getting them from him (too busy).
Since it is a charcoal forge, and I had to use 6 inch pliers rather than tongs (I bought some tongs after this ordeal), heat treat was difficult.
Trying not to melt the tip, the first heat got it hard except for the inch at the tip.
The second try was sub par.
When trying the third time. the glove insulation melted...and so did the tip.
Heat treated it anyway, and ground new tip on it after.
Blade was now hardened nicely, but 1/4" shorter than originally intended.
Took bunch of sanding work.
Added notches to assist in epoxy holding it into handle:
Used a hardened stainless steel 1/8" pivot assembly as a pin. Hung it to allow epoxy to dry fully:
Not bad for weight considering blade is 0.360" thick at spine:
Posing down by the river:
Had spring steel.
Had access to forge...and 6 inch pliers?!?!
Time to make a seax.

Here it is prior to heat treat:

There are a bunch of progress shots my brother took, but good luck getting them from him (too busy).
Since it is a charcoal forge, and I had to use 6 inch pliers rather than tongs (I bought some tongs after this ordeal), heat treat was difficult.
Trying not to melt the tip, the first heat got it hard except for the inch at the tip.
The second try was sub par.
When trying the third time. the glove insulation melted...and so did the tip.

Heat treated it anyway, and ground new tip on it after.
Blade was now hardened nicely, but 1/4" shorter than originally intended.


Took bunch of sanding work.
Added notches to assist in epoxy holding it into handle:

Used a hardened stainless steel 1/8" pivot assembly as a pin. Hung it to allow epoxy to dry fully:

Not bad for weight considering blade is 0.360" thick at spine:

Posing down by the river:

