Fell into the trap..

Joined
Aug 7, 2016
Messages
5
Hello all, new here and trapped in the sharp edge, so to speak.

I've been taking care of our knives for forty years. At 15, some nincompoop taught me how to do it and the slavery never ended. Had to sharpen mom's, dad's, neighbors, friends and strangers blades for as long as I can remember. It got a little easier when I moved away and started a family with only our kitchen and my little collection to do with my trusty Arkansas Stones. Fast forward, three boys and a girl later, It seems to have started all over again. Now, I have five kitchen sets, all the boy's E DC's, hunting and fishing knives and, wouldn't you know, friends and neighbors are somehow getting the word that I can make a knife sharp! It was so out of control I started looking at "professional" systems and was about three minutes away from a Tormek T-8 when I saw this cool device called an EdgePro! Thank goodness I bought the cheap/inexpensive model but with a full complement of Shapton Glass Stones. At first, it was great! Our kitchen knives were better than I could do. The polished edges were something that I had never done before! Got my 22yo working on his kitchen set and he did a very good job. I thought (maybe he can do his own now):D except, we started working on his EDC. That's when we noticed that the bevel was all over the place and the more we tried, the worse it got. We finally got it to an acceptable edge and thought we should give it a go on some of our lessor knives. Out came the never used BK-1 and ended up with a complete re-profile which was horribly UN-even and lop-sided. Same exact thing happened with the BK-7 and I threw in the towel. I will never use this thing on my BM's, KoA's or prized filet knives except for maybe, just maybe, I could get a set of EP's 1/2in stones for our re-curves which have never been properly sharpened. Bottom line is...... back to stones and I think after this i might invest in some Chosera or Shapton's and restart my adventures there.

End Rant...

Trigger
 
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did the mechanism go out of alignment? agreed hand sharpening is optimal, but is the hardest and most time consuming to master.
 
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Hand sharpening and honing is the best (if you know how to do it). I've been hand sharpening for about 65 years and never needed a gadget to get a good edge or keep the bevel even. Learn how to hand sharpen and never be a slave to a gimmic again.
Rich
 
did the mechanism go out of alignment? agreed hand sharpening is optimal, but is the hardest and most time consuming to master.

After reading about it on this site, it appears that "out of alignment" is a design flaw that rears its ugly head when you get to the curvature of the blade. It is then exasperated when you flip the knife and attempt to duplicate the other side. Possibly, the ball joint modification will help in this respect but I still have my doubts. As is, it seems to do well, even shine with straight or relatively straight blades such as kitchen knives. Possibly it can also help the boys to get acquainted with the concept of creating an edge and spark their interest with my stones.
 
Trigger, sounds a lot like someone I know. (started sharpening my grandmother's knives at a young age. It was "our" thing)
I've got a tub of sharpening gizmos, don't want to calculate what I've spent, looking for a "better" way because I can't split a hair.
I'm back with Rich S. Enjoy the journey.
 
After reading about it on this site, it appears that "out of alignment" is a design flaw that rears its ugly head when you get to the curvature of the blade. It is then exasperated when you flip the knife and attempt to duplicate the other side. Possibly, the ball joint modification will help in this respect but I still have my doubts. As is, it seems to do well, even shine with straight or relatively straight blades such as kitchen knives. Possibly it can also help the boys to get acquainted with the concept of creating an edge and spark their interest with my stones.

Probably not the "out of alignment design"... usually, it's the power supply. ;) Setting the blade to correctly sharpen the curve (belly/tip area) takes a bit of practice. A lot of new users think the curved portion should either be 'centered' in front of the pivot, or that the blade should be 'centered', both are incorrect. Mark the bevel with a Sharpie, and practice positioning the blade until the Sharpie is removed where you want it to be... often about 1/3 or so in front of the pivot. (Unless of course it's a bad generic EP... something could be out of alignment).

You are right in that in can give a new sharpener a good idea of what sharp is, and how to get there... which helps learn freehand sharpening. It eliminates "angle control"... often the hardest part to learn.

Wicked edge, problem solved.

No different on the W.E., although the directions on setting the knife to sharpen the belly/tip area are a bit clearer.
 
With time I'm sure we'll work out some of the idiosyncrasies of the EP and I am looking forward to a set of 1/2in EP stones specifically for our re-curve blades. I'm just really glad that I didn't get the professional model for my first try at a gadget. That is about a $300 bonus which will now be directed to a new set of Chosera's. Never had water stones before or really even looked into anything other than a SC and a couple Arkansas. Guess that makes me a creature of habit which is unusual for the elaborate hobby's I pursue. Might be that I never considered sharpening a hobby but instead, a chore...

Thanks for all the responses.
Really enjoy the forum,
Trigger
 
How are you flattening your stones for the EP?

EP Diamond stone every other knife until clean and white. At that point, I'll take two similar grits and give them a finish rubdown. Which is kinda cool compared to the struggles getting my Arkansas flat.

The EP has in its limited use, 20 knives or so, produced a better than good edge, some most i would consider "ultra". The problem has been the bevel goes wild based on the shape of the blade. As CBWX described above, It may be that I need more time with it to better understand the geometry of the machine and its effects on various shapes. Problem is that I don't want to practice on knives that are dear to me. E.G. BM Mark E Lee, Lerch, Hunt, Adams to name a few, as well as My KoA collection. It's just scary to think of what it would do to the Moras! I did find a couple very old MACs, a fillet and a "bull nose" Sontaku that I am willing to sacrifice for the experience additionally, Bucks and Kleins are also to be subjected to the experiment.
 
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