Ferro Forserum collared axe head wedge?

S

skipper469

Joined
Nov 21, 2012
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Hello all. I’ve been lurking around and gathering supplies for some axe rehanging and refinish projects. I’ve gathered up from flea markets, eBay, TN. Hickory etc. the supplies to start my first rehanging.

Being the title of this thread, I’ll start with a question on a Ferro Forserum collared axe head I purchased. I haven’t seen a head like this outside of this example and it was an impulse purchase. My question is, how should I wedge this collared axe head? Do I do a cross x wood wedge or a circular steel wedge? I can’t find an example or picture to follow. Heck, I can’t even find the history on it besides a mention of a town in Sweden. Anyhow how, any help or advice is greatly appreciated? Also, does anyone know the background or history behind this head?

Thank!

https://imgur.com/gallery/5fjix
 
Check the eye dimensions. That looks like it might be a slip-fit eye designed for a handle to slide in from the top. Can we see pictures of the eye, top and bottom?
 
Your right, it’s an 1 3/4 at the top and 1 1/2 at the bottom. So is there any “trick” to a slip fit, or should I just turn it on end and just pound it and have it be anchored by weight? Any idea how a handle for this would have,or should like like besides being no more than an 1 3/4 at the foot.
 
3vRbfWB.jpg


IoN5tzB.jpg


This type of axe was evidently popular in Central and South America, with the big round eye being ideal for a slip-fit handle made from a branch (without a wedge), but an oval eye would eliminate the potential for twisting of the head during use.

Some clues about how they were hafted:


fig005.jpg


Figure 5--An early 20th-century Collins ax
manufactured for the South American market...

from An Ax to Grind: A Practical Ax Manual
 
skipper469 said:
Your right, it’s an 1 3/4 at the top and 1 1/2 at the bottom. So is there any “trick” to a slip fit, or should I just turn it on end and just pound it and have it be anchored by weight? Any idea how a handle for this would have,or should like like besides being no more than an 1 3/4 at the foot.
Click to expand...
For a slip-fit, the finished handle would need to be no more than 1-1/2" (not 1-3/4") along the entire length, except for the larger end that fits into the eye (with the handle being slid into the eye from the top of the head).
 
Great info! Thank you! Well that should be a pretty simple axe to hang.time to run over to TN. hickory for a blank. Fun no less. I’ve got others that are waiting in line for some attention. I think I’ll try my first double bit hang on the Kelly Perfect on a TN. Hickory handle after the Forserum.
https://imgur.com/gallery/mcG3F
 
Having an oval cross section in the grip area will give you better control. And having even a slight swell at the will keep in it your hand better.
 
Square_peg said:
Having an oval cross section in the grip area will give you better control. And having even a slight swell at the will keep in it your hand better.
Click to expand...

I was going to ask you what your plans were for your Challenger head you got considering it looks almost identical to my Forserum? Thanks for the input!
 
Interesting that Ferro Forserum was a Swedish maker.
My experience has been "La leña" can also refer to "Brush or Kindling" (lighter work/smaller wood/kindling) I suppose language usage changes with region/time though. You are probably missing the part of the label that says "Suecia"?

What is the weight on yours?

Not a lot of references to them. Here are a couple though:

http://www.traditional-tools.com/end-of-an-era-the-wetterlings-brand-stops-production/ (mentioned as a maker but no more information)

https://bladesandbushlore.com/index.php?topic=12513.0

https://www.maskinisten.net/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=100731

http://www.thepictaram.club/share/BS1CYMcAyZx
 
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