ferro rod and steel temper

Joined
Mar 22, 2006
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I noticed when using my hotspark with my stainless clipper tha a small pencil thin line forms on the blade...I understand that a hotspark can reach a temp of over 1000 degrees..Is it possible to ruin a the temper of your blade this way???or is the exposure time so quick that it doesnt matter. Thanks
 
Many have used the spine of their knives to strike ferro rods with no ill effects. It is not surprising if an edge, being so much thinner, would be damaged. The sparks are hotter than 1000f IIRC.
 
yeah, they can be around 2400F and even hotter, and they can "burn" out chunks of your blade. Ie, on the cutting edge.
 
yeah i only use the spine... I might just tuck a piecemof hacksawblade into the ranger band on the sheath just to be safe
 
Hey RR...

Stick to the spine of your knife over the hacksaw blade..

The spine will do a much better job for you...

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
"Hard" and "sharp edge" is the ticket. The back (spine) of hacksaw blades may lack the first due to differential hardening or heat-treatment. The cutting edge of even cheap HS blades will do just fine in my experience. Then we have jigsaw blades etc.
 
Hey Guys..

Thomas....

The thing I don't like about hacksaw blades is that "If" you use the toothy part of the hack saw blade on the Ferro Rod,, it's chews the living Crap out of the rod...

I let me Scouts use an assortment of ferro rods I have collected..
Some of them had hacksaw blades on them..
When they returned the the rods,, I couldn't believe my eyes.. The rods were chewed up beyond belief..

since then I've removed the teeth or have removed the hack saw blade from the rods..

What I do now, alot of times is use some cheapish paring knives.. They work well,,and if damaged are Easily replaced...

ttyle

Eric
O/ST
 
The teeth can be pretty agressive - esp. in the hands of Scouts.

I have tried all manner of things, including glass, flint, and an old router bit.
 
Some people I have spoken with prefer aggresive serrations as they feel it throws a better spark, I have not noticed a differnce, I find that using a "Corner" of the spine, makes the best spark.
 
i notice that throwing a nice hot pile of sparks leaves an ugly dark smudge on the contact areas of the blade. i think it is like a woodfire blackening the bottom of your pots. it is easily wiped off with a finger if you get it quick, but if you leave it for a while (like several hours or more) it can be more difficult to get off.

i find that a toothier edge (file, hacksaw teeth etc) throw a better shower of sparks if teh rod is smooth. if it is already worn ragged with grooves from using the toothier edge constantly, there is no difference.

actually, i find that if you alternate every fifteen or twenty uses between using a smooth striker and a toothed striker, it works best and throws the best sparks. i think this is because a toothy edge will bite bigger hunks out of the rod, but will eventually wear grooves in teh rod and it loses its advantage. if you then use a smooth edge, you scrape off these grooves, throwing alot of big hot sparks, until it is worn smooth. if you alternate, you maximize teh amount of sparks you get.

with all of that said, i keep my ferro rod in a small cloth pouch with a piece of glass from the bottom of a beer glass because i find that it throws really nice hot sparks, is easy to replace, and the edge is constantly being sharpened because small bits of glass flake off and expose a new edge. it is, in my experience, the best striker in many circumstances. one place that it falls short is the fact that you have to be careful with it because it will cut in all directions (watch how you hold it) and it could be considered more fragile than a piece of hacksaw blade. i counteract these two problems by using the more robust glass from the bottom of a beer bottle, and i grind one side of the piece down on a rough stone (wear safety glasses) so that if i slip it won't be tragic.
 
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