Few questions about the Waki

G

Grossmesser

Joined
Feb 11, 2009
Messages
2
Hey, I'll start off by saying that this is my first post and I'm happy to meet you all. I just got my Waki in the mail today and had a few questions about care. First off what should I do for rust protection. Second would there be anything in black pig hide leather that would discolor or otherwise damage the blade. I ask because I couldnt get a sheath and wanted to make a laminated pighide sheath (I have the materials and I'm not very skilled with leather yet).

Sorry if the questions are kind of stupid, its my first sword and i want to keep it nice, Thank you.
 
I use a Tuf Cloth to wipe my blades down with before I put them to bed. Works great. You can really use any type of lubricant you want to. The carbon steels are not "stainless" so they will rust.

As far as the leather question, I'm sure that someone will be along to help you with that question if they can.

Welcome and glad to see a new Waki owner on the forums.

Best regards, Les.
 
You can also use mineral oil to prevent rust, if you ever fancy trying a bit of food prep with the Waki. I use mineral oil on all my blades. It's cheap and found in any pharmacy.

I can't help you with the leather question either, but I'm sure someone will be along shortly. :thumbup:.
 
I wouldn't worry too much about ruining the Waki - it's made for beating. As long as you keep feeding it fresh limbs to chop, and zombies to decapitate, it will stay nice as can be.

If you get a little bit of rust on the edge, you can always strop or sharpen it to remove the rust, and a little bit of almost any kind of oil should keep the edge protected. I like tuf cloths because they are convenient and don't get goopy oil residue all over everything.
 
Welcome to the dark side!!

While the steel isn't stainless, it is one tough animal. The coating really does slow down corrosion, but even when you wear through it, don't sweat it. I just use a VERY light coat of gun oil on my blades. Like all steel, it should NOT be kept in leather when not in use. The acids, salts, and tanning solutions accelerate rust forming. Make sure that the dyes in the leather are totally dry before you put the blade in it. Leather dye is pretty hard to remove.

I might give Dwayne Puckett (armoralleather@yahoo.com) an email and see what he tells you about curing leather. He's a super leather artist.

Don't even think of making a sheath and not posting pictures. We'll come get ya if we don't see 'em;)
 
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