Few thoughts on hard steels and serrated edges

bladeprince

bladeprince

Joined
Jun 12, 2006
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Over the years I've been really into buying mostly knives made of S30V, D2, 154CM, etc. I'm starting to wonder if that's been such a good idea. I've found that if I use those knives frequently, that resharpening them is a real pain in the backside. While I think AUS-8A is a bit too soft, I'm finding the VG-10 seems to be just about right (there are others, of course). It keeps an edge fairly well but the best part is that it doesn't take all afternoon to resharpen it.

I've also started using Spyderco's with a fully serrated edge for various chores around the house (cutting up boxes, perparing food, cutting some of the 2000 elm saplings in my yard). I haven't had to resharpen any of those knives at all (so far). No, I don't get as clean of a cut as I do from a newly sharpended BM Ruckus (for example) but for 90% of the cutting I do, I don't need a clean cut. Any other companies make fully serrated edges besides Spyderco and Cold Steel (I don't like their serrated design; not strong enough)? I don't remember seeing any others.

I'll finish off my rambling with a question. Since I have so many knives in the harder steels and I still want to use them (I like to use most of my collection, not let it sit around collecting dust), I was wondering if those that have bought the diamond dust rods for the Sharpmaker think they were worth the cost in time saved. In other words: do they really work.

Regards and keep'em sharp
 
A lot of folks like VG-10 and the SE, welcome to the International Order of the Serrated Edge. :)
 
I have yet to use a Fully SE blade, but can say that I like that I can get my 154 Cm sharper than my S30V. I want to see how well I can sharpen up my VG-10, but I haven't had the oppurtunity to use my d4 wave yet to its full potential.
 
Cliff Stamp said:
Most of this is geometry, have Krein regrind one of them and then see how it sharpens.

-Cliff
Click to expand...

Cliff,

Is Krein a user on this forum and what changes would he make to the geometry and would make sharpening easier? Just trying to understand.

I'm also surprised about the lack of response to this topic. Either others don't use their knives or they like sharpening them.

Thanks
 
bladeprince said:
Cliff,
I'm also surprised about the lack of response to this topic. Either others don't use their knives or they like sharpening them.
Click to expand...

I've got a Benchmade ascent in ATS-34, cousin to 154CM. It gets used. It gets dull. I sharpen it. No problem. (kind of like beers. )

These days I start with an india combo stone. I prop the stone on my Sharpmaker so that my angle is exactly the same as the sharpmaker. Then I run a few passes on the coarse side. Run a few on the fine side. Then I switch to the sharpmaker itself to smooth it out the gouges. Works for me. The diamond triangles are too pricey for me to try.

I do not care for serrated knives. Personal preference. I think they lack couth. YMMV.

BTW. Cutting is more than a sharp edge. The rest of the blade has to be shaped to the task. If you have a thick blade, it will bind cutting cardboard no matter how sharp the edge is.
 
In my experience, owning two sets of Sharpmaker Diamond stones, the diamond stones wear out too quick - the diamonds come off.

I'd say your problem is that you don't touch-up your edge often enough. For plain edge, I'd recommend stropping after a day of use. For serrated, I'd recommend regular Sharpmaker stones after a day of use.

Hard steels are FOR people who dull their knives quickly and know it. Soft steels are for people who don't.

Touch up your edge often.

.
 
bladeprince said:
Is Krein a user on this forum and what changes would he make to the geometry and would make sharpening easier? Just trying to understand.
I'm also surprised about the lack of response to this topic. Either others don't use their knives or they like sharpening them.
Click to expand...

Do a search for Tom Krein on the forum. There have been quite a few threads recently on knives he modified by putting on a deep hollow grind, resulting in very thin edges that cut much, much better than thicker edges and are also easier to keep sharp.

On the topic of sharpening steels like S30V: I actually don't find sharpening these steels that difficult. I use DMT diamond hones and fine ceramics, and it's usually a quick and easy job. But then I tend to make sure my knives don't get too dull anyway.

However, I find really like using fairly "simple" steels like plain old carbon steels more and more. With stainless its steels like 12C27 - they're tougher, easier to sharpen and they get very, very sharp. Much better in that respect than S30V or D2.

Hans
 
bladeprince, to answer this question:
"...I was wondering if those that have bought the diamond dust rods for the Sharpmaker think they were worth the cost in time saved. In other words: do they really work...."

Yes they work, but it is most important to use very light pressure (5lbs or less is what SFO advised me)....otherwise u dislodge the "dust" ....yeah I'm guilty of ruining a set of the diamond rods ... :0
But u can get more diamonds for the money with a byrd duckfoot sharpener.... ;) .... I have a DMT diasharp coarse 6x2 for my (terrible) plainedge freehand sharpening ventures.... and a dmt serrated edge sharpener (the kind with handles like a Bali)... for touching up the Spyderedges...:rolleyes:
 
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