Fiddleback O1 vs A2

ncrockclimb

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I have three Fiddleback O1 blades, but have yet to get one in A2. However, I am really interested in giving it a try...

So, what do all you Fiddleback experts and SUPER fans think of Fiddleback's A2? How does it compare to O1? Overall, how do you like these two steels and do you have a favorite?
 
I dig Andy's A2; spalts beautifully, IMO quite a bit more corrosion resistant, and overall a great steel. My only nitpick is that it is a wee bit harder than 01 and thus might be prone to chipping a tad bitmore under EXTREME use.
 
I am looking forward to the feedback on this thread. Good question.
 
O1 is the easiest to maintain the edge
A2 has more corrosion resistance and takes the spalting process the better

Top to bottom...3 kitchen knives
A2
O1
S35VN
 
I believe both are tool steels, meant to take abuse. I really love the way A2 looks on a Fiddleback, but, man I like the screaming edge I can get on O1!
 
I believe both are tool steels, meant to take abuse. I really love the way A2 looks on a Fiddleback, but, man I like the screaming edge I can get on O1!

One of the things I have read is that you can put a sharper edge on O1. I agree that a moderately talented sharpener (I barely qualify) can get Fiddleback O1 amazingly sharp. However, I can get my 1095 and CPM 154 just as sharp.

So, is it a fact that O1 will take a sharper edge than A2, or is it just easier to get O1 sharp due to its lower abrasion resistance?
 
If I'm not mistaken, heat treat plays a huge part of the qualities of all knife steels. Fiddleback Forge does an AMAZING heat treat with O1 and CPM 154; AMAZING! I'm not discounting their A2, I just don't have as much experience with it. I just worked on the edge on an A2 and an O1 Camp Knife... I honestly can get the O1 sharper! Now, let's talk about the edge on my production Camp Knife in CPM 3V, that steel seems to get magically sharp! Scary sharp! I convexed the edge, inherently making the blade a little thinner behind the edge, then stropped up to the standard green compound. Scary, scary sharp! If you guys don't have a Fiddleback in CPM 3V, you MUST give one a try!

-Will
 
So, I randomly checked a few Fiddleback Friday threads from 2014 and it seems that there were a lot fewer knives in A2 being offered back then. To put it another way, it seems that Andy and crew are making a lot more A2 blades today. Does anyone have any insight about the apparent shift to making more knives with A2? Given how popular Fiddleback's O1 is I am surprised to see A2 becoming more prominent in the lineup.

I fully intend to make my next Fiddleback be an A2, and think it will be a blast to compare the two steels.
 
I think with the low frequency of handmade Fiddlebacks coming in CPM154, I may venture to grab a Monarch in A-2 steel. I would love to score a natural wood, tapered tang with blue racing stripes. Would be the ultimate Fiddleback for me shy of a CPM154 version.
 
So, I randomly checked a few Fiddleback Friday threads from 2014 and it seems that there were a lot fewer knives in A2 being offered back then. To put it another way, it seems that Andy and crew are making a lot more A2 blades today. Does anyone have any insight about the apparent shift to making more knives with A2? Given how popular Fiddleback's O1 is I am surprised to see A2 becoming more prominent in the lineup.

I fully intend to make my next Fiddleback be an A2, and think it will be a blast to compare the two steels.

It started with Andy saying order a few sticks of A2 to play around with several months ago. So Allen ordered some and we made some knives and it took the spalting process fantastic....Now Allen orders it in regularly
 
I like A2 more and agreed that sparking is outstanding
A2 less stainable. Bette hold edge
I wish they do more stainless blades. It seems that everyone want to have at least couple knives that resist wet/aggressive environment.
 
I'm not usually one to revive an "old" thread but I thought it would be redundant to start a new one for my question. I'm looking hard at a fiddleback in A2 primarly because of the handle configuration. I have purchased, made, and used a lot of blades in O1 and I know how well it preforms when HT properly. My only experiences with A2 were a couple of semi-production fixed blades that suffered significant edge chipping. This was due to the grind/edge geometry and not the A2 steel. Nevertheless, they were put out to pasture. My question is in regards to edge maintenance and somewhat subjective but I will ask it anyway.

How much more difficult is Fidleback A2 to "field sharpen" then O1. As a knifemaker, albeit hobbyiest, sharpening isn't an issue but for an outdoors knife, I like to maintain the edge with diamond and/or ceramic stones while in the field. Will I see a noticeable difference in the A2 vs my O1 fiddleback? I understand that this may be difficult to quantify but I would love to hear feedback from those of you who own both and use them. Thank you in advance and blessings.

-dt
 
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I have sharpened both and A2 has quite a bit more wear resistance. The simple chemistry behind this is that A2 has more chromium, which increases its wear resistance. The same element is responsible for the larger carbides in the matrix of the steel that you see chipping out. With a powder metal steel (any of the CPM variety), grain structure is refined and carbide growth is limited. At least one old school steel, AEB-L, also has very marginal carbide development. Chromium carbides in A2 will tend to separate from the rest of the grain structure as a whole, and the chips will be bigger than typical "micro-chipping" seen with smaller particles in steels with more refined grain structure.

That said, once an edge has been optimized for your use, both O1 and A2 should be easy to keep up in the field. When honing a knife on a diamond or a ceramic or even a rock, we tend to slightly increase the edge angle in order to align the very apex of the edge. I would expect field sharpening to increase edge angle by at least 2 or 3 degrees total. So, if a knife comes out of the shop in A2 at 50 degrees inclusive, then 01 will seem easier to field sharpen because the decreased wear resistance will permit a little removal of the secondary bevel leading up to the cutting edge, and you might actually get away with keeping the angle consistent or even reducing it a little compared to A2. But if the knife was thin enough to begin with, most field-level stones would align the edge no problem, and the increases in angle from field sharpening would create a bevel that is still well below most production knives.

In simple terms, if your edge is sweet right off the bat, it won't matter in the field if it is 01 of A2, since you will only need to hone it. If it is too thick, 01 will be easier to sharpen in the field because you will be able to remove metal behind the edge just like you would sharpening at home.
 
In simple terms, if your edge is sweet right off the bat, it won't matter in the field if it is 01 of A2, since you will only need to hone it. If it is too thick, 01 will be easier to sharpen in the field because you will be able to remove metal behind the edge just like you would sharpening at home.

Thanks PT! So, edge geometry aside, there's no considerable difference between the two in regards to field maintenance. Very good. I re-profile the edge on most knives that I purchase anyway so the edge geometry shouldn't be an issue. Thanks again!
 
Even super hard steels like M4 and S90V hone easily with a ceramic and a strop.

But field sharpening has different meanings for different folk.

As Kephart said "When put to the rough service for which it is supposed to be intended, as in cutting through the ossified false ribs of an old buck, it is an even bet that out will come a nick as big as a saw-tooth—and Sheridan forty miles from a grindstone!"

Which is to say, my idea of the 'field' ain't 40 miles or a week out from anywhere.

...And he wasn't talking about Fiddleback A2.
 
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Which is to say, my idea of the 'field' ain't 40 miles or a week out from anywhere.

No kidding! I only spend 4-5 days at a time on a hiking/camping/hunting trip. I merely like to touch up after food/fire prep or cleaning game. I certainly don't anticipate needing to repair an improvised saw tooth. Thank you again, my friend, and best regards.
 
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