Field Grade Finish

T

tejas7

Joined
Sep 14, 1999
Messages
92
I am debating on ways to cut down on my "finishing time" on lower end using knives. i.e. - hunters, etc...

Does anyone have experience with the different types of buffer wheels listed in Texas Knifemakers Supply (or other sources)?

I do not have the catalog in front of me so I am guessing at the names and spelling. I am intereted in trying the "siska" wheel and also the "scotchbright" type wheel.

I would like to be able to finish my heat treated blades to about 220 or 320 on my Wilton 2 x 72 and then use one of the above mentioned wheels on my buffer to get a "matte" type fininsh. After that would it be possible to put a 400 grit or so satin finish on blade by hand sanding???

Any other quick tips for a lower end finish that is fast and looks descent would be helpful.
 
I have used an Anderson wheel for a flat finish. It does take some getting used to.

C Wilkins
 
If you belt sand to 220 grit and go to the buffer with a couple of #7440 Scotchbrite pads stuck on the shaft you will get a nice satin finish. The rectangular pads are more available than the wheels and more affordable because you can use the pad as a sanding pad for wood until it is worn out and then use in on the buffer to satin finish blades. The #7440 is one of the coarsest of the Scotchbrite line and does a fine job.

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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com


 
Larry Harley gave me this idea for a "down & dirty" satin finish:
Get a fine wire wheel (0.008") and a can of Clover Valve Grinding Compound. Load the wheel with the compound & buff the blade. Gives it a nice brushed look.
 
For a fast finish that has worked good for me. Take the finished blade down to 220G, go next to a scotchbrite wheel (fine) and then back to a fine scotchbrite belt on the belt grinder. The scotchbrite wheels are expensive but will last forever seems like.
 
If you have a dremel get the little sanding discs for it. I use 220. Work your way up and down the blade slowly, make sure you keep the lines even and cover the whole blade. That in it self leaves a really cool looking finish. But it doesn't take a lot of hand sanding after that for a normal hand rubbed finish either.

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Fix it right the first time, use Baling Wire !
 
My "field grade" finish consists if finishing the hollow grinds with a 400 belt then a fine Scotchbrite belt. Then I do the flats on my surface plate with 220 or 400. It gives a nice effect in that there is two textures with lines running in opposite directions.
Neil

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Talonite! Pictures are now up on my website!!
http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/Meeting/5520/index.html
 
I think Neil has probably the best solution. you cant beat taking it down to 400 grit. you can even leave it like that...done it many times....the scotch brite belts are great...as hal says...but the joint fails after a few years...long before the belt is worn out...id go with scotch brite buffing wheels if i were you...i have one...it will last until it is worn down to a nub. bought it to refinish an old vietnam randall...the guy who owned the randall paid for the wheel and i called it even.

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http://www.mayoknives.com


 
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