Field Sharpen Axe

M

MBTull

Joined
Oct 16, 2008
Messages
300
I have a small Gerber Gator and a Collins Camp Ax. Both do better when I sharpen them in the field. I have tried all sorts of field sharpening tools. It seems that a mill bastard file works for the rough sharpening. I tried a Smiths pocket diamond hone and managed to wear the diamonds off.

Can anyone help me with a recommendation for fine sharpening?

Thanks!
 
I just reprofiled a hatchet last night with a norton coarse fine combo block. It was a True Temper Tommy hatchet. I was amazed at how sharp I got it free hand! I could shave hair off the back of my hand. I am assuming the metal is very soft. This hatchet is old, but cool. I would find a small but not too small ultra fine stone, and pay attention to your angles! Most importantly, have fun!
 
I would return the pocket sharpener to Smiths. The abrasive particles should be embedded well enough that they don't wear off on steel the hardness of which permits the axe to be sharpened with a file.

I have a Hewett Jewelstik diamond sharpener that I've used on buckets of knives, axes, machetes, kukris, etc. for many years---and it is still plenty abrasive.

DancesWithKnives
 
Lansky makes a round stone, coarse on 1 side, fine on the other. It works great to put the touch-up on an axe or hatchet. Sells for around $10.
 
You might try the DMT Diafold that's fine on one side and extra fine on the other. I can pretty much guarantee that the diamonds won't come off of that. It's very light, and the handles fold around the stone to keep it safe.
 
When I lived near Boston, they used to call sharpeners like that round Lansky "Puck Sharpeners". Of course, I had a bumper sticker that said "JESUS SAVES; Esposito Scores on the Rebound!" so I can't complain about hockey fanaticism.:D

DancesWithKnives
 
I carried an axe with my chain saw for years. I took a mill file and smoothed up one side (ran it on a sander). I use the coarse side to sharpen and finish with the other. Saw a bunch of SouthAmerican brush busters do this with their machetes. Works great and I always get a reallygood edge without a lot of trouble
 
Initially, I basically shape the blade with a bench mounted sanding machine and a bucket of water. Lacking this power tool, you can clamp the blade horizontally in a vice and carefully file it to the basic starting profile. This step is only necessary when an axe comes from the factory with the typical fat/dull edge characteristic of cheap, I mean "affordable" axes.

Next the basic sharpening:

I just use the 40 degree grey/medium stones on my Spyderco Triangle sharpmaker. Never needed more than that. If you chip up your blade, you need to go back to filing (or bench mounted sander) to get rid of the chips. Once the chips are gone, sharpen normally on the Sharpmaker.

I have never bothered with the fine white stones on the Sharpmaker.
 
I do most of my sharpening these days with one of these:
Norton 4" puck

IB64.jpg

That,and a file are all you need to care for an axe in the field.
 
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