field sharpening knives axes machetes: problem

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knifeaxchete

Joined
Apr 14, 2009
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after months of self training sharpening and trying my best with what few stones i have i need help in planning my sharpening system and technique. i use 3 stones but i have 4. the one i dont use is a spyderco ultra fine bench stone. i have an ace hardware combo pocket stone "coarse and fine" but its more like coarse and medium or so. usually i just use the medium side. thats the first step in sharpening my knives. i grip the knife in left hand and stone in right and hold the knife edge up and run the stone over the edge towards the tip and into the blade. i do short mostly downward strokes as opposed to trying to cover the entire length of the edge with one stroke. i flip the knife and do the other side but with the way i hold it when i do this side, it goes towards the handle instead of the tip... dont know if this is affecting my edge or not. i then use a peice of smooth clay tile i found. i just run the blade over it with very light pressure for awhile on both sides alternating. then i use a small hard arkansas "fine" pocket stone and hold the blade and stone like with the ace hardware stone i do that until the whole edge feels smooth and it doesnt bite the stone. it is very nice and sharp when im done but it doesnt seem to stay sharp very long. my machete arrived very nice and sharp. and i didnt have to sharpen it for awhile while chopping green vegetation and wood on a daily basis. the first time i sharpened it, i didnt need to resharpen for almost a month it was impressive. but i sharpened again and the edge held for like 2 or 3 days. its stressing. for my axe i first use the coarse side of the stone or the medium side depending on how dull it is. i run the stone over each side in a ircular motion with moderate pressure at first then when im finishing up i use light pressure and sometimes will switch to straight passes like with the knife. then i just use my little fine pocket stone. my axes have always been sharp enough in my opinion but i read alot about people saying their axes are capable of cutting hair and i assume the edge stays this way for some time because it would be pretty pointless to sharpen your axe that sharp just for the edge to be destroyed when you slam it into a peice of wood. i can only use a field sharpening system at this point though so any advice on gear would please keep that in mind. i have a list of new sharpening items i am interested in buying here they are.

http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyId=20254
DMT Mmni-sharp diamond pocket sharpener coarse, extra coarse
lansky natural arkansas medium, coarse
dan's medium arkansas pocket stone
the coarsest file i can find = mill bastard file

which of these do you think would suit my purposes best?
by the way i dont use water or oil on any of my stones i just use a scotch brite to take the blemishes off of the knives and to clean the stones before and after i use them i wash them in water occasionaly but it doenst seem to do anything. i dont use any kind of "jig" to automatically adjust my angle, i adjust it by eye by bust pivoting the stone next to the edge until the visible gap in between the knife edge and stone is gone.
 
Welcome to BF!


Forget about the Arkansas stones and get more diamond stones. The mill bastard file will be good for the machete as it does not need a hair splitting edge just don't use it on anything else. DMT dia-folds would be the best option, IMO they are the best portable sharpener that money can buy. A lot of your sharpening frustration is in your method, I would stop using the tile as it is a unknown grit. Start using the spyderco UF ceramic it is one of the best finishing stones available and clean your stones with a abrasive cleaner they will work better.
 
I'd disagree on ditching the Arkansas stones. I used Arkies for years, and they certainly can produce the kind of edge the OP is looking for- my axes will routinely slice newsprint cleanly.
 
Sword and Shield said:
I'd disagree on ditching the Arkansas stones. I used Arkies for years, and they certainly can produce the kind of edge the OP is looking for- my axes will routinely slice newsprint cleanly.
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The diamond stones would remove more metal though, which will be a great aid especially when he is sharpening tools that are going to be thrashed upon.
 
I like Arkansas stones in the shop, where I can take my time and keep them clean, and diamonds or ceramic in the field, because they're faster and require less maintenance.

There are so many ways to skin this cat that a person could drive themselves bonkers. :D
 
For field sharpening axes and machetes, a rubber sanding block -- the kind used for auto body work, very inexpensive at almost any auto parts store -- with emery cloth is terrific. Most axes and machetes use fairly soft steel, which the emery sharpens very quickly.

This method requires very little practice or skill, and produces a good, convexed edge that works nicely on tools like these. I would probably use 3/0 grit emery cloth; 4/0 is the finest, 2/0 a little coarser.
 
I would not ditch the Arkansas stones as no other stone is capable of putting that nice fine edge on a knife which they do.The problem is in your method of sharping.Go to http//www.nortonstones.com and read the method of sharpening and watch the video until you can duplicate that.Your stones are good enough just improve your method and you'll see great results.No need for the gadgets, stick w/ what you have and learn that method you'll get sharp long lasting tools.DM
 
but whats wrong with my method? i bring the stone into the edge not away from it, im able to keep a consitant angle by hand for the most part. i thought this was correct
 
knifeaxchete said:
but whats wrong with my method? i bring the stone into the edge not away from it, im able to keep a consitant angle by hand for the most part. i thought this was correct
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From what it sounds like, you're working upside-down. The knife's on top, not under the stone- makes it much easier to get an edge that can be replicated.
 
For field sharpening I use a DMT Diafold in coarse/fine. Works great for touch-ups, or even fixing a ding if necessary. :)
 
knifeaxchete said:
but whats wrong with my method? i bring the stone into the edge not away from it, im able to keep a consitant angle by hand for the most part. i thought this was correct
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It is, but your sharpening media is the problem using higher quality products will make drastic improvements. Also using many different types of sharpening media can cause problems of its own.

If a field sharpener is what you want then get the full set of DMT dia-folds, you will have a hard time finding something better. Again start using that UF ceramic to finish your blades it is capable of producing insanely sharp edges and they will last longer. To keep your stones clean use this http://barkeepersfriend.com/BarKeepersFriend_powder.htm and here is a good place to get stones http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/s...eqCATE CODEdatarq=dmt&eqKEYWORDdatarq=diafold
 
knifenut1013 said:
It is, but your sharpening media is the problem using higher quality products will make drastic improvements. Also using many different types of sharpening media can cause problems of its own.

If a field sharpener is what you want then get the full set of DMT dia-folds, you will have a hard time finding something better. Again start using that UF ceramic to finish your blades it is capable of producing insanely sharp edges and they will last longer. To keep your stones clean use this http://barkeepersfriend.com/BarKeepersFriend_powder.htm and here is a good place to get stones http://www.knifecenter.com/kc_new/s...eqCATE CODEdatarq=dmt&eqKEYWORDdatarq=diafold
Click to expand...

I question your statement that the OP's tools are the problem. I can get a lasting edge on an axe using a smooth rock- what he has should be perfectly fine for sharpening. I'd look to technique, then to tools.
 
Sword and Shield said:
I question your statement that the OP's tools are the problem. I can get a lasting edge on an axe using a smooth rock- what he has should be perfectly fine for sharpening. I'd look to technique, then to tools.
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Agreed. I've even touched up my edge on rusty pipes before. If it's abrasive and you can hold a consistent angle against it, you can sharpen with it. Technique is always always ALWAYS the most important factor.
 
If you are sharpening on one stone then its not a problem but if you are using many different stones including things that are not really sharpening stones how do you know what you are really doing to the edge. The OP spoke of having edge retention issues, using proper sharpening techniques and media could change this.
 
For the axes and machetes, all you need is a mill bastard file.
 
Indeed. Garden files seem almost purpose built for the task. I only use the DMT Diafold because I like my axes and machetes stupid sharp. :p For just plain old really sharp a file works great. :)
 
well i tried again today because my tools were due for it. and i got my axe very sharp i was cutting hairs with it. i got it very sharp just on the ace hardware stone but i polished it up by running my fine and ultra fine stones over it for plenty of time lets see how long it holds... machete is next for sharpening today and ill post how long it lasts becuase i dont use my axe very often at the moment. but what about my technique? if you say my technique is wrong id appreciate you going more in depth on that... what am i doing wrong in your opinion? but anyways.. i only use the file for the roughest of work i dont make my edge with it. i use a coarse stone i just think its overkill
 
I'm bad at holding a constant angle, and I tend to "dig" my blade into the stone or whatever I'm using when I do a "slicing" motion to sharpen it. try drawing the blade backwards like a stop on whatever you decide to use, I've had no problems since I've moved to that technique. It seems to take a little longer, but my results have been more consistent, and there seems to be more "feedback" when I hold the angle too high. You do however need to make sure you're not holding it too low, ie just grinding the shoulder.

The traditional slicing motion has cause me to flatten a few edges when my angle was not correct, with the stropping motion, if I hold it too high a couple times, the damage is minimal, and recovering is easier.
 
by the time i was done sharpening the machete it was shaving hairs easily. i chopped a few coconuts with it (knife deflected and impacted the bottom board some) and i chopped some grass with it. its still sharp but it cannot shave at all anymore. and its really disappointing. the only possible thing i can think that i did wrong was not doing both sides evenly while honing it with the fine and uf stones. i work the blade on one side plenty then switch back and forth like 5 or 10 times then finally i did one stroke on each side for like 5 minutes. this does stress me out though... by the way. how long does your shaving edge last on your axes when using? do you have to sharpen frequently? if so there really is no point in it being that sharp its just wearing down the tool 20 times faster than necessary.
 
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