Fighter/Bowie with hamon and sheath

Brian Avila

Brian Avila

Joined
Jan 2, 2011
Messages
1,286
So here is another Fighter that I just finished today. It was not easy to get the pictures for the hamon and not see me in the reflection.

W2 with 416 stainless guard, polished g10, sharp clip

This hamon is more traditionally placed, closer to the 1/3:2/3 rule and goes down towards the tip and back up the clip, with a hard clip. The sheath was done by me as well.

I welcome, comments and critiques.

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-Brian-
 
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You're doing great work Brian. I think I would've liked a bit longer guard though. It's a tiny nit to pick.
 
Very well done. I would agree a wider guard would function better in my opinion.

I think the hamon placement looks great. I don't like it when it is too close or even touching the edge.

The sheath also looks great. I think it might be fancied up a little if you used different color leather at the top and bottom, but that is just personal preference.
 
Let's see:
14.75" overall. ~9.25" blade, ~1/4" thick at ricasso, distal tapper. And the balance pint is right in front of the guard.
 
Brian, first off - awesome fighter!! That handle is just dreamy and I love the blade shape. The only areas I would comment on (also VERY nit picky) is first off the guard: I too prefer slightly longer wings but this is quite a common thing I find.

Also, this could just be me, but I think if that sheath had been in black leather to match the handle it would be even more bad-ass. That could be my OCD issues, I am one of these people who has to wear a black belt if I am wearing black shoes. :D
 
Buffalohump: I don't disagree with you about the black leather. I only purchase one color of leather and it tends to be brown. But you make a good point. I will keep that in mind and test some black dye on the leather to see how it turns out.
 
Brian Avila said:
Buffalohump: I don't disagree with you about the black leather. I only purchase one color of leather and it tends to be brown. But you make a good point. I will keep that in mind and test some black dye on the leather to see how it turns out.
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My experience is that a good black dye will cover almost anything that is porous. :thumbup:
 
Brian I disagree with Buffalohump on the color of the sheath. I certainly understand what he is saying but your stamping is too awesome to dye that sheath black. In my opinion you lose some of the detail the darker you go. You don't obviously, its still there but harder to see. Just my .000002 cents worth
 
Brian, until you get a sewing machine (flat bed) that will put very small, light weight thread (69) stitching into/onto the overlays, try using a #4 or #5 creaser to trim the area you normally stitch and leave it unstitched. Crease the full thickness before you taper skive it. It you are using good contact cement the overlay isn't going to move because of the edge stitching and you might like the look even more. Also since you use primarily brown leather you might consider using brown thread. You still would have a nice contrast, but more subdued than the bright white.

Also you might tighten up the shell crescent stamping just a minute hair.

Your work has improved dramatically, my friend.


Paul
 
sheathmaker said:
Brian, until you get a sewing machine (flat bed) that will put very small, light weight thread (69) stitching into/onto the overlays, try using a #4 or #5 creaser to trim the area you normally stitch and leave it unstitched. Crease the full thickness before you taper skive it. It you are using good contact cement the overlay isn't going to move because of the edge stitching and you might like the look even more. Also since you use primarily brown leather you might consider using brown thread. You still would have a nice contrast, but more subdued than the bright white.

Also you might tighten up the shell crescent stamping just a minute hair.

Your work has improved dramatically, my friend.


Paul
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Paul, good suggestions. I will have to go about trying that. I both accounts.
 
Why do some bowies, or knives, have that significant curve towards the plunge line/ricasso area? Is it a design choice, or because it's helpful in shaping the ricasso/plunge line?

I think I'd prefer a much wider area there, but I'm not sure. I'd like to hear your opinion on this.

BAA6ECC1-FB1F-44BA-91E5-D47EA178138E_zpscmczzukr.jpg
 
I like everything about this package. I prefer brown leather (though black would match great too).

I also like contrash white stitching with the brown leather.

As to the guard, I go back and forth. I like the look of longer guards, but did not feel this one looked undersized to my eye. And, in use, I often like the feel of less guard. But I am not a knife fighter!

Great knife and sheath, though.
 
jac_solar said:
Why do some bowies, or knives, have that significant curve towards the plunge line/ricasso area? Is it a design choice, or because it's helpful in shaping the ricasso/plunge line?

I think I'd prefer a much wider area there, but I'm not sure. I'd like to hear your opinion on this.

BAA6ECC1-FB1F-44BA-91E5-D47EA178138E_zpscmczzukr.jpg
Click to expand...

Which part are you talking about? The swoop from the ricasso to the edge allows for easier sharpening and space between the guard and the edge.
 
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