Figure 4 Trigger help

D

Diligence

Joined
Jan 18, 2000
Messages
275
So...this weekend I tried to actually use a figure 4, with a rock for a deadfall. Set the trigger and put some bait on the the end of the horizontal section. Darn little critter ate the bait, tripped the trigger and didn't get hit, but he did leave some hair behind. (two nights in a row)

So, how do you set the Figure 4 so that it has a "hair trigger"? I tried to make the little vertical ledge/notch on the horizontal section about 1/32 wide, but still was hard to trip with the heavy rock.

Any advice?

For ease of description, refer to the pieces as Vertical (V), Horizontal (H) and Diagonal (D).

Thanks,
D
 
Try building some walls along the sides so that the critter can only come out by backing up. It should look like a little cave and put the bait in the back. Hope that this helps.
 
Yes - that's exactly what I did. The first night I made the walls so that the only way in was opposite the bait, the second night I made the walls so the only way in was past the back of the rock.

How wide do you make the vertical ledge on the horizontal piece?

D
 
Also make sure your vertical stick (the one planted on the ground), is outside the fall zone of your rock.
 
I wonder if your rock is heavy enough, or whether the shape of the bottom of the rock might be a problem.

Sometimes it could be a good idea to have an "anvil" rock on the ground under the falling rock. I don't know what the ground is like near your trap, but if the critter gets pushed against soft earth rather than a solid rock it is more likely to wriggle out and escape.

Some critters can take quite a whack on the nut without being affected too much.

Perhaps the critter was bigger than you thought. I don't know anything much about American animals, but maybe you set a squirrel trap and had a visit by a coon or a fox.

Maybe you don't need more of a "hair trigger". After all, the trap did go off.

Perhaps the horizontal (bait) bar could be longer and extend further under the rock.

For ease of setting, I use a figure four trigger where the horizontal bar is tied with a short cord to the diagonal bar. That gives me one less thing to fiddle with when I am trying to set the trap. Some folks use just one stick for both the horizontal and the diagonal.... they simply bend the stick and partially break it to form the "junction" of the two sticks instead of having the notch.

Here's a picture of the figure four trigger that I have used with outstanding success for catching mice:

FigureFourTrigger-1.jpg
 
I've just had a thought about your hair trigger.

The weight of the deadfall rock (or log or whatever) is a factor in how sensitive the trigger will be. A lighter weight on your trigger should make a more sensitive trigger than a heavy weight on the same trigger.

But often you want a heavy weight and a fairly sensitive trigger.

Another factor affecting sensitivity is the leverage of the diagonal bar. The shorter the portion of the bar on the weight side of the upright... and the longer the portion on the other side of the upright, the more sensitive the trigger should be. In other words, for a sensitive trigger set up, you need to have the weight as close as practical to the vertical support stick, and you need to have a good long diagonal bar (and a correspondingly long horizontal bait stick.

I bait my deadfalls for mice (as compared to an unbaited deadfall which depends on the animal tripping the trigger as it goes along a trail). I have found it quite an advantage to split the end of the bait stick. Bait is forced into the split so the animal has to force its mouth/tongue into the split to get the bait. This system has enabled me to catch tiny mice using a relatively heavy deadfall. At one time I was using a wooden case partially filled with nails when I was catching mice on a building site.

With a tied-together trigger as shown above, and with a heavy weight, I have found that the bait stick is thrown clear of the weight most times when the trap is triggered. This may not be of much significance with a big trap set for big animals, but I think it is a help when catching mice sometimes because the bait and stick don't remain under the falling weight to help take some of the shock out of the falling weight.
 
Excellent advice!

I now know some of the errors of my ways:

1. I had the vertical stick under the rock, and although hair was left behind, I think this gave the critter an extra second to escape.
2. I had the horizontal bait stick too short on the bait side, with too long on the notch side, therefore a longer diagonal - ergo, a not so "hair" trigger.
3. My diagonal was thrown clear of the trap, but the ground was relatively soft, ergo, no "squishing effect" (that's the technical term)
4. I had my rock too vertical, because the horizontal stick was too short on the bait side, ergo, the critter had too much time to think about being squished. (as in "on my goodness -- quick jump!--- the sky is falling")
5. The critter was definately a squirrel and they are smart critters, so I should have created much more of a tunnel into the trap, with higher walls.
6. I've reconsidered the "hair" trigger and realize it was probably a combination of items 1 thru 5.
7. A .22 works much easier, but harder to hide in the middle of town.

Thanks all!

Anybody else care to share their tips for a well functioning trap?
 
What about setting a simple snare instead of using a deadfall?

I use braided nylon cord to catch possums down here. Maybe squirrels would chew through cord if they had a long enough time in the snare... so wire might be a better choice.

It sounds like you have it sussed though.... I look forward to hearing of your success.

It is nice to hear of other enthusiastic primitive trappers. I think that traps and snares are the most reliable way to harvest game meat....and I find the activity to be very satisfying. There is always more to learn.
 
Yes, snaring would be a suitable alternative. With squirrels it works best with wire, as they do tend to aggressively try to chew their way out. I haven't used a spring loaded snare, just static snaring, but perhaps the spring is the way to go. It would certainly be more humane. Rabbits can live for a long time in a static snare. The end result is still the same, but mayhaps its the same comparison that can be made between leg hold and conibear (body)traps.
 
actually a 22 is very easy to quiet you had just better have a certain back stop. in fact I have an old winchester rifle which is just naturally so quiet you wouldnt need ear plugs if it werent for the sonic crack of the bullet. its not suppressed its just an old win 290 semi auto. again a good fail safe back stop is the most important.
 
"Perhaps the critter was bigger than you thought. I don't know anything much about American animals, but maybe you set a squirrel trap and had a visit by a coon or a fox."

The first time I made an "arapuca" (Falling cage bird trap) here I hadn't planned to set it. My daughter was there and thought it would be cool to try to catch something but all we had for bait was whole dried corn. We awoke to find the little trap smashed to pieces. We had caught a horse during the night.

If a .22 is too lound then try CCI CB's, they make a .22 into a loudish air rifle. Mac
 
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