Figured Wood---filling the open eyes

3

333_okh

Joined
Oct 14, 2007
Messages
176
What do you all do to fill the open eyes in bird's eye and burl...here is some I have currently.

IMG_1210_zpsdipyogsq.jpg

IMG_1208_zpsblxucz3d.jpg

IMG_1209_zpsv4lw5tzj.jpg

IMG_1211_zps6pvoecw1.jpg
 
Im sure you would receive more response if you post this in the shop talk section. That said, I've used some very open grain maple Burl and walnut Burl. Depending on the size of "eye", pocket, void or grain, most would say to use CA glue with or without sanding dust added. Some use epoxy with dye added. You might also consider having it professionally stabilized if planning to use on knives. For table tops like below, I like just plain CA glue. It is a time consuming process to fill every little void, but worth it.




 
Wood dust from that piece of wood with some glue like Elmer's has been used for many years .Some other type of glue perhaps in pre-Elmer days .
 
It's interesting that you posted this subject because I have spent hours over the past couple days filling a bunch of Koa wood voids for a display box I'm donating to the Jerry Fisk Micro Show. You have to fill it, sand or scrap it and then generally have to fill again. You can see that this wood has some small punky spots and planner skip that needed to be repaired. Figured wood is notorious for having issues when planning. However, when done, even the larger holes end up looking natural bark pockets.

 
anything void larger then 1/8 I will plug rather than fill with dust/glue. I don't want these areas to stand out or distract from wood run.

Gary
 
I would ask what are you going to finish this with? If you going to use a penetrating oil like tung be careful with thin CA and dust it will not penetrate the CA if it's a small spot you should be ok. If you use a film finish like poly, varnish or lacquer you should be ok as well. Anything larger that 1/8" I use de-waxed shellac and sanding dust from the piece and make it look a bark inclusion or pitch pocket. Just my 2 cents
 
Dopic1 said:
I would ask what are you going to finish this with? If you going to use a penetrating oil like tung be careful with thin CA and dust it will not penetrate the CA if it's a small spot you should be ok. If you use a film finish like poly, varnish or lacquer you should be ok as well. Anything larger that 1/8" I use de-waxed shellac and sanding dust from the piece and make it look a bark inclusion or pitch pocket. Just my 2 cents
Click to expand...

I do agree that oil will not penetrate the CA, actually nothing will. However, for most finishes some type of oil is required to bring out the grain/burl. I used CA in the maple burl above then sanded it until all that remained was down in the eye, void etc. In the Koa above I've applied the CA glue but not yet sanded back so you still see the CA glue bleeding. I use an oil varnish blend, like Waterlox, and it works great. Tru-Oil for knife handles works great as well even after using CA glue. I think this is right on point with what you are saying, you need the varnish part to cover over the entire piece to look uniform.

Below is an extreme example of highly figured Walnut burl with all kinds of worm holes, punky spots, eyes, voids, etc. In this one I experimented with crushed Malachite and brass shavings for the large voids but used just straight CA glue for all that hundreds of little eyes and small cracks. Then finished it all with Waterlox, which is tung oil and varnish mix. I love the stuff for most finishes and use Tru-oil on knife handles, fly-fishing nets that will get handled frequently.

After sanding and finishing you can't tell that CA glue was even used on the eyes. Without filing all those eyes the finish would leave small indents regardless of the number of coats.













One of these slabs became a knife display stand.

 
mwschilling said:
I do agree that oil will not penetrate the CA, actually nothing will. However, for most finishes some type of oil is required to bring out the grain/burl. I used CA in the maple burl above then sanded it until all that remained was down in the eye, void etc. In the Koa above I've applied the CA glue but not yet sanded back so you still see the CA glue bleeding. I use an oil varnish blend, like Waterlox, and it works great. Tru-Oil for knife handles works great as well even after using CA glue. I think this is right on point with what you are saying, you need the varnish part to cover over the entire piece to look uniform.

Below is an extreme example of highly figured Walnut burl with all kinds of worm holes, punky spots, eyes, voids, etc. In this one I experimented with crushed Malachite and brass shavings for the large voids but used just straight CA glue for all that hundreds of little eyes and small cracks. Then finished it all with Waterlox, which is tung oil and varnish mix. I love the stuff for most finishes and use Tru-oil on knife handles, fly-fishing nets that will get handled frequently.

After sanding and finishing you can't tell that CA glue was even used on the eyes. Without filing all those eyes the finish would leave small indents regardless of the number of coats.
Click to expand...


Your absolutely correct I wasn't disputing what you were saying, Waterlox and Tru-oil are film finishes yes some will penetrate and pop the grain but overall they are a film finish. You are also correct about having to fill the voids unless you want pockets in the finish. I was referring to a finish like real tung oil that will penetrate and harden I have never had any luck covering CA with Pure Tung oil and I also sometimes use a Walnut oil that's had the proteins removed so it wont go rancid on Kitchen knives scales.

BTY beautiful work on the Walnut Burl. Here is a piece of Maple Burl I did in Tung oil with no filler I wanted it to penetrate and not feel like a film.

Maple%20Burl_zpsyqejerq7.jpg
 
Very nice Maple Burl bowl. One thing we should have asked the OP is what is the intended use. Dopic1 asked about type of finish. Equally important is what you intend to use this wood for. It's one thing to finish a table slab or maple bowl with just an oil or varnish on surface. However, if OP intends to make knife handles from this wood you might seriously consider having it stabilized to fill all the internal voids. I assume those long pieces are redwood. With that amount of figure they may be structurally weak and no amount of CA glue will solve that. Maybe ok for scales, where the tang will provide rigidity but for a solid block handle those pores may absorb moisture and break. Just my 2 cents as a hobby woodworker and knife collector, not a knife maker.
 
mwschilling said:
Very nice Maple Burl bowl. One thing we should have asked the OP is what is the intended use. Dopic1 asked about type of finish. Equally important is what you intend to use this wood for. It's one thing to finish a table slab or maple bowl with just an oil or varnish on surface. However, if OP intends to make knife handles from this wood you might seriously consider having it stabilized to fill all the internal voids. I assume those long pieces are redwood. With that amount of figure they may be structurally weak and no amount of CA glue will solve that. Maybe ok for scales, where the tang will provide rigidity but for a solid block handle those pores may absorb moisture and break. Just my 2 cents as a hobby woodworker and knife collector, not a knife maker.
Click to expand...

Thanks, yes I would be very cautious about using Redwood burl for a handle or scales unless their stabilized. I have turned a few pieces it beautiful wood but its very soft and with the voids would chip or crack if you dropped it. I listed the Janka hardness below, this is for straight grain wood not a burl which would substantially less probably in 250 range. Again just MHO.

Cocobolo 1136

Redwood 450

White Pine 420
 
I'm always in awe when i see those beautiful wood finishes! I know first hand how much work is involved...but that's rewarding!! :)
 
To fill voids that approach the smaller size, or even larger holes that have been filled, yet still require attention, as you are approaching the fine finish stages, work small areas at a time. Just dab a finger tip amount of tung oil on the surface and sand immediately before it soaks in. Use maybe 320 or 400 grit paper.
The combination of the oil and fine sanding dust makes a slurry that gets pushed into the fine voids while sanding.
Do this again on the next grit paper and the results can be quite amazing.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top