file advice

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gipelprup

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Nov 12, 2014
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Finally found some decent files (fine cut Grobet and Pferd) that I intend to use to draw file (out) deeper file marks from near-finished blades. I'm using D2 steel at the moment. Will the chromium content on annealed metal quickly dull/destroy my new files?

Also: Have only a propane forge, and don't like the amount of "soak" time recommended for D-2. Prefer 154CM, but it, too, requires long soak times. Any other decent (as in rust-resistant) steel that is better suited to my simple forge. I work "stock-removal vs. "blacksmithing."

Any assist appreciated!
 
gipelprup said:
Finally found some decent files (fine cut Grobet and Pferd) that I intend to use to draw file (out) deeper file marks from near-finished blades. I'm using D2 steel at the moment. Will the chromium content on annealed metal quickly dull/destroy my new files?

Also: Have only a propane forge, and don't like the amount of "soak" time recommended for D-2. Prefer 154CM, but it, too, requires long soak times. Any other decent (as in rust-resistant) steel that is better suited to my simple forge. I work "stock-removal vs. "blacksmithing."

Any assist appreciated!
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Annealed D2 will not ruin or quickly dull your new files. A2 tool steel has about half the chromium of D2 and is air hardening, so not nearly as rust resistant as D2, but more so than most other tool steels.

If you just do stock removal only, why don't you consider selling the propane forge and investing in a heat treat oven?
 
Or do what I do and send em out to be heat treated. Big batch getting ready to be ground prior to ht, high carbon damascus on the first table and AEB-L stainless on the second.

CeNeNd4.jpg


The steels you are talking about cannot be heat treated to their full potential in a forge, just can't. If you want a steel that will heat treat very well in a forge look at 1084. But its a high carbon steel not stainless. So ya wipe your knife down with an oily rag once in a while.
 
danbot said:
Annealed D2 will not ruin or quickly dull your new files. A2 tool steel has about half the chromium of D2 and is air hardening, so not nearly as rust resistant as D2, but more so than most other tool steels.

If you just do stock removal only, why don't you consider selling the propane forge and investing in a heat treat oven?
Click to expand...

Propane forge was within my budget. I'm no good at marketing, so expenditures need to be within my wherewithal . . . gip
 
gipelprup said:
Propane forge was within my budget. I'm no good at marketing, so expenditures need to be within my wherewithal . . . gip
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Gip again:
As I noted, not good at marketing. Just hobby. What's on the tables above about matches my lifetime production. Started in the '70s, took bad advice and made six alike, got bored, quit. Resumed after retirement about 2010.
 
gipelprup said:
Gip again:
As I noted, not good at marketing. Just hobby. What's on the tables above about matches my lifetime production. Started in the '70s, took bad advice and made six alike, got bored, quit. Resumed after retirement about 2010.
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Ah, I see. Well then you will pretty much be limited to simple carbon steels with fairly straight forward heat treatments.
Nothing wrong with that.
52100 bearing steel would be another one I would suggest.
 
A heat treat oven can be built for not very much money. I think I spent around $120. There's electrical work involved which can kill you, but if you happen to have basic electrical knowledge it's no big deal.

D2 is at the top end of what my 1000 C thermocouple can do and my oven will probably take an annoying amount of time to get to that temperature, but I should try it at some point. It may make for better kitchen knives for gifts than my plain carbon steel knives which "rust" I hear.
 
zhyla said:
A heat treat oven can be built for not very much money. I think I spent around $120. There's electrical work involved which can kill you, but if you happen to have basic electrical knowledge it's no big deal.

D2 is at the top end of what my 1000 C thermocouple can do and my oven will probably take an annoying amount of time to get to that temperature, but I should try it at some point. It may make for better kitchen knives for gifts than my plain carbon steel knives which "rust" I hear.
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Gip again -- If anyone else with file questions is following this thread, I can report that annealed D-2 DOES dull files. The Pferd fine-cut "slicked up" somewhat after a short period of usage, the Grobet less so, but it also developed a bit of shine. Unlike the crappy Mexican-made Nicholson "peanut butter spreaders," however, both the G. and P. continue to cut, though not as well as originally.
 
gipelprup said:
Gip again -- If anyone else with file questions is following this thread, I can report that annealed D-2 DOES dull files. The Pferd fine-cut "slicked up" somewhat after a short period of usage, the Grobet less so, but it also developed a bit of shine. Unlike the crappy Mexican-made Nicholson "peanut butter spreaders," however, both the G. and P. continue to cut, though not as well as originally.
Click to expand...
I file D2 all the time (de-burring mostly) and I replace my files every five years or so.
 
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