Allen Blade
BANNED
- Joined
- Oct 29, 1999
- Messages
- 498
Hello,
In another Post on this Forum it was mentioned to "Slide a file" over the Edge of Said Knife in different Places to Check for EDGE and SPINE hardness.
Ok Great!, but it Proves only that the Edge achived a level of hardness during the Quench and the SPINE or area Not Achiving Martensitic Tranformation remained SOFT(spring temper). That in itself Doesnt Prove anything other than One area is hard and the other less hard than the first.
What a File in and of itself cannot tell you is if Proper THERMAL and Tempering Cycles have been preformed to a given blade.
A File cannot tell you if the Blade was OVERHEATED beyond Critical Temperature, Thusly Causing GRAIN GROWTH and a Vast Array of Problems.
And Also a File Tests Suface hardness
only and only compared to whatever the FILE`S hardness level was that was used as the indicator of hardness.
REMEMBER all Files as with all KNIVES, are not created Equal.
The Only Remedy Known to MAN and KNIVES
to FIX an overly Hardened BLADE is to Increase the TEMPERATURE Range of your THERMAL tempering Cycles in Units of 25 Degrees until you Reach the WORKING hardness
level of your Given Alloy, That provides Outstanding Edge Holding , along with Ductility of the EDGE/BLADE in Normal/Heavy Use Circumstances.
And i hate to Burst Bubbles But Just HEATING up a blade to a color that looks ORange and Close enough to color, then shoving it into a Room temperature Quench bath, Then into a 309 degree oven for 9 or so hours, Does not a Consistantly Performing BLADE make!!!
I agree with the Above method you may achive a hit and miss performance level, because of Variants in Ambiant light sorces
during your HEATING it to that Neat orange Color.
But more than likely all you will get are a bunch of Knives that all have Variance in
Martensitic, Austenitic, and Pearlalitic
Structures within the Blade.
As stated Above if anyone has a file that can TELL ME all that,,,please email me with an address of where i can buy a dozen or so.
Thanks ,
Allen Blade
In another Post on this Forum it was mentioned to "Slide a file" over the Edge of Said Knife in different Places to Check for EDGE and SPINE hardness.
Ok Great!, but it Proves only that the Edge achived a level of hardness during the Quench and the SPINE or area Not Achiving Martensitic Tranformation remained SOFT(spring temper). That in itself Doesnt Prove anything other than One area is hard and the other less hard than the first.
What a File in and of itself cannot tell you is if Proper THERMAL and Tempering Cycles have been preformed to a given blade.
A File cannot tell you if the Blade was OVERHEATED beyond Critical Temperature, Thusly Causing GRAIN GROWTH and a Vast Array of Problems.
And Also a File Tests Suface hardness
only and only compared to whatever the FILE`S hardness level was that was used as the indicator of hardness.
REMEMBER all Files as with all KNIVES, are not created Equal.
The Only Remedy Known to MAN and KNIVES
to FIX an overly Hardened BLADE is to Increase the TEMPERATURE Range of your THERMAL tempering Cycles in Units of 25 Degrees until you Reach the WORKING hardness
level of your Given Alloy, That provides Outstanding Edge Holding , along with Ductility of the EDGE/BLADE in Normal/Heavy Use Circumstances.
And i hate to Burst Bubbles But Just HEATING up a blade to a color that looks ORange and Close enough to color, then shoving it into a Room temperature Quench bath, Then into a 309 degree oven for 9 or so hours, Does not a Consistantly Performing BLADE make!!!
I agree with the Above method you may achive a hit and miss performance level, because of Variants in Ambiant light sorces
during your HEATING it to that Neat orange Color.
But more than likely all you will get are a bunch of Knives that all have Variance in
Martensitic, Austenitic, and Pearlalitic
Structures within the Blade.
As stated Above if anyone has a file that can TELL ME all that,,,please email me with an address of where i can buy a dozen or so.
Thanks ,
Allen Blade