File-worked hunter with Koa...

J. Doyle

J. Doyle

Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
Joined
Feb 17, 2008
Messages
8,205
Here's one I finished just after the first of the year. Another of my guard-less hunters, dressed up a bit.

Specs:
Hand Forged from 1075 steel, clay quenched and etched
8 1/2" overall, 3 3/4" blade, .185" thick at the ricasso w/ full distal taper
'Twisted Steel' file-worked spine
Rounded ricasso edge
Black g-10 fluted collars
Coined copper spacers w/ damascus band
Stabilized Curly Koa handle

All comments and discussion welcome.











 
It doesn't get too much better than that. I'd probably prefer to see it with a guard but that's just me. The Koa is very nice and your coining and file work is outstanding. Nothing less than we've come to expect from you, John.
 
That's a beauty John. I generally do not warm to a filed spine, but for some reason I am digging it here. The Koa is just lovely.
 
Mr. Doyle, your knives never fail to impress, and this one is no different. :thumbup: Love the file work on the back, it flows absolutely flawlessly. I like the added touch at the bottom of convexly beveling the edges of the handle.

VERY nice work, sir! :anonymous::beguiled:
 
Another winner, John. Like Roger, I generally don't favor filing, but your work here is so soft and flowing it really enhances the overall knife. It's actually a part of the knife rather than looking like an afterthought as many do.
 
RogerP said:
That's a beauty John. I generally do not warm to a filed spine, but for some reason I am digging it here. The Koa is just lovely.
Click to expand...

This was going to be my exact comment. Over the years I have moved away from liking file worked spines (though that is more specific to geometric patterns).

This fluting spine work looks great!
 
Thanks for the comments guys. I appreciate everyone posting.

I share the feeling of some of you guys about a lot of filework we see on knife spines.

This one I really like. I think a lot of people would call this 'Rope' filework but I call it 'Twisted Steel' because that's what it looks like to me. Most 'Rope' filework I've seen consists of alternating file cuts and hacksaw cuts. I used to do that but found that the hacksaw cuts left sharp little notches that weren't very pleasant to the touch. So I eliminated the hacksaw cuts and called it 'twisted steel' to differentiate it from 'rope'. Though I am certainly not claiming that the concept is originally mine.

I like to take it a step further too. This type of filework done on a square spine can still end up flat on top and have some sharp ridges. I like to round the spine first, then do my filework on a rounded spine. This forces me to really make the downward curves necessary to get the right 'twist'. The result is a nice look but also is quite comfortable and easy on the thumb when pushing down on the spine.
 
sweet
 
Wow, John, it's another beauty! I'm also in agreement with not really caring all that much for a lot of the types of file working on blade spines, especially when they're cut fairly deep and sharp all the way up to the very tip.. :thumbdn: But I've loved this/your version of this rope/twist pattern ever since I first saw it, what I'm pretty sure was on the blade in your avatar. The pattern itself just flows so nicely and is smooth & subtle, plus it doesn't interrupt any of the overall flow of the knife either. :thumbup:

The shot of the ricasso in the forth picture down is so pleasing to look at just by itself. That seamless "spacer" fit up, left ever so slightly proud of the ricasso, the rounded top and bottom spine on it and the plunges look almost "silky". Also, the proportion of it is just so, right imho.

I love how deep and smooth of a black you're able to achieve by using G10. It seems though that you'd be able to pick up on at least some of the glass fibers or weaving (or w/e it is) in the G10, but nope, pure black! Or is it just the way it looks in the photo, and in good sunlight you'd be able to see the "shimmer" of the G10 while moving it around? Either way, love it. :cool:

I also gotta say, you do some of the most precise coining I see, the depth of and spacing between every single notch are just perfect, at least on the ones I can see in the pics. ;)

Love the slightly proud fit on all of the spacers and the handle, all so nicely rounded or beveld on their edges.

I have to ask, how the heck to you get such perfect checkering on the finial in the handle's end? Also, is that scewed to the tang the way a typical take down is? If so, I guess what I realy mean to ask is, how do you tightly fasten it to the tang without ruining and marring the sharp peaks of the checkering? :confused: Or is it just a piece that's epoxied on top of and covering the bolt? Or, is there no tang bolt at all, and it's just countersunk and epoxied in there? Now I'm curious.. :D

Great looking knife! Thanks for sharing. :)

...OH yes! I almost forgot, "perfect" Koa as well.... :rolleyes: ;) lol

Forgive my long post, I just happened to be in the mood for a good breakdown of the details. :foot:

~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
... (It's been quite a while since I've posted any new vids)
 
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Terrific knife, John. Quite a lot going on here but it all just works. A confluence of forms, colors, and textures that looks both pleasing to the eye and to the touch. As always, the execution and attention to detail is exemplary. Thanks for sharing.
 
Thanks again guys. I appreciate the posts.

coldsteelburns said:
Wow, John, it's another beauty! I'm also in agreement with not really caring all that much for a lot of the types of file working on blade spines, especially when they're cut fairly deep and sharp all the way up to the very tip.. :thumbdn: But I've loved this/your version of this rope/twist pattern ever since I first saw it, what I'm pretty sure was on the blade in your avatar. The pattern itself just flows so nicely and is smooth & subtle, plus it doesn't interrupt any of the overall flow of the knife either. :thumbup:

The shot of the ricasso in the forth picture down is so pleasing to look at just by itself. That seamless "spacer" fit up, left ever so slightly proud of the ricasso, the rounded top and bottom spine on it and the plunges look almost "silky". Also, the proportion of it is just so, right imho.

I love how deep and smooth of a black you're able to achieve by using G10. It seems though that you'd be able to pick up on at least some of the glass fibers or weaving (or w/e it is) in the G10, but nope, pure black! Or is it just the way it looks in the photo, and in good sunlight you'd be able to see the "shimmer" of the G10 while moving it around? Either way, love it. :cool:

I also gotta say, you do some of the most precise coining I see, the depth of and spacing between every single notch are just perfect, at least on the ones I can see in the pics. ;)

Love the slightly proud fit on all of the spacers and the handle, all so nicely rounded or beveld on their edges.

I have to ask, how the heck to you get such perfect checkering on the finial in the handle's end? Also, is that scewed to the tang the way a typical take down is? If so, I guess what I realy mean to ask is, how do you tightly fasten it to the tang without ruining and marring the sharp peaks of the checkering? :confused: Or is it just a piece that's epoxied on top of and covering the bolt? Or, is there no tang bolt at all, and it's just countersunk and epoxied in there? Now I'm curious.. :D

Great looking knife! Thanks for sharing. :)

...OH yes! I almost forgot, "perfect" Koa as well.... :rolleyes: ;) lol

Forgive my long post, I just happened to be in the mood for a good breakdown of the details. :foot:

~Paul
My YT Channel Lsubslimed
... (It's been quite a while since I've posted any new vids)
Click to expand...

Hi Paul. Thanks for all the great comments.

The g-10 fittings are high polished. I take them to 1200 grit and then oil them lightly. They're pretty black. It's hard to see any of the grain of the g-10 at all in any light.

Sometimes I use a finial cap which is just a button cover that is epoxied in place. I use a matching or contrasting material (depending on the look I'm going for) for the button. It just covers the stainless steel bolt. Other times I make the finial one solid piece, threads and all. It just depends on the materials and the look I want. I've thought about making a button cover that actually threads into the assembly bolt, but I have no worries at all that a button cover epoxied in place is ever going to fall out.
 
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