filet knife WIP over view

dogwood dan

dogwood dan

Joined
Aug 19, 2011
Messages
925
For my Filet knives I start with 1/16" s35vn.
I clean it with mineral sprits to remove any grease oil and debris. This let the dykam go on smoother, leading to cleaner scribe lines.
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I use pre made patterned to help constancy from one knife to the next. This pattern is lexan I will also use micsrta, I will use plywood for prototypes but for long term use the edge of ply wood will get mangled.
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Using a scribe I trace the pattern on the steel. Try to do this with a single bold stroke other to keep a single clear mark. I use a scribe because it leaves a very clear fine mark that will not burn away during grinding. The scribe in this picture is a repurposed nail set. I also have a carbide tipped one that is great. I bet of scrap with a hardened point will work as well
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I use a chop saw to cut the bar in to manageable lengths
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I put a tool rest on a 8" wheel with 36 grit belt. I have added a wrok surface to my tool rest this keeps the blank at the apex of the wheel
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What progression of belt grits do you use on such thin steel? Also what hardness do you temper to on the blades? I only have made blades from 1/4 > 3/8 thick, I'm A little nervous to try a filet knife. Your advice is much appreciated.
 
For shaping I use a 36 grit, I then heat treat to 60-61 rc (I use s35vn). I mark my center line and then use a 120 grit belt to put convex grind on clean up with 220 and hand sand. It helps to slow the belt down to cut back on heat, because It will heat up quickly.

I have several guides on the coast swear by the combo of a hard edge and a convex grind for being able to filet all day.
 
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I use a micrometer, 3" square, and a scribe to mark wear I want the pins located then mark the center points.

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After I drill the holes I use a chamfer bit to soften the edge along the hole. I do this both to make it riserer to get the pins in later but to remove the 90 degree angle because this can be a stress riser

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While the steel is still soft I like to sand the blade to be sure every thing in nice and flat


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next I put the handle slabs together and leave them clamped in place while the epoxy cures
 
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after I have it flat smooth and shiny I start my heat treat, As that I use S35VN it hast to be heat treated in an oxygen free environment I wrap the blade in a stainless steel "burrito " I put i little tissue paper in the pack to burn up any oxygen trapped in the pack. i like to make the first fold along the spine




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the second fold makes a tube. all folds along "open" edges i fold at least twice and use a roller to keep folds tight and flat




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The next fold is on the but end (handle end) so that I can hold the package and tap the third fold so that the blank slides down against the fold give as much room a the tip. finish with the last fold be careful not to tare the foil



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it is now ready to go into the oven while you wait for the kiln to finish heating up take the shop dog out and play for a few minuets
 
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