Fileworking

I have just ordered my second knife to make and was thinking to try some fileworking. So far though I have been seeing that you do the filework before the Heat Treating. Since I am geting the blade from TX KS it will already be heat treated......should I pass on this thought of file work....?


Michael

 
I

Ironhorse

Joined
Oct 9, 2000
Messages
112
Mike;
yes, the small files, ratail,jewelers files,
chain saw sharpening files, are used because of the fine cutting action you need to do the job.They are only slightly higherin hardness then your heat treated blade, and it all depends how hard the blade is. The files might do a few blades and maybe none!
It's not worth it, always do it before the hardening process. Ironhorse
 
You can do a bit of work with a dremel type tool and a thin, round stone bit. You are limited to what pattern you can do (alternating scallops is pretty much the best you can do) and the stonewears out damn fast but I did it on one knife after heat treat to fix a boo boo and it worked for me!


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"Come What May..."
 
I've gotta disagree. I also do the file-work prior to the heat-treating. However, I have done a few knives where the file-work was a total afterthought.

Files won't cut a hardened blade.

But if you have a rotary tool, i.e. a Foredom, Dremel, Bosch... you can do some very intricate patterns. A carbide burr and really small drum sanders will do the trick.

I have done some very intricate vine patterns this way.

Just a thought
smile.gif

Nick
 
Thanks for correcting me Nick! I have only done this once and have only made 4 blades so my experience and imagination with repect to filework is quite limited! Dremels kick butt!

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"Come What May..."
 
Speaking of Dremels, do you have a problem with your Dremels heating up? I was using mine last night to do some nuggeting and I could only use it for a couple of minutes before the body got so hot I couldn't hang on to it.....does this happen to all of you?

curious...
 
Michael,I have done alot of filework after heat treating the blade.It can be done with cheap files but they will wear out very quickly.The Dremal tool will work great,But try it on some scrap first as you will need to learn how to control it...Good luck,and email me if you run into problems......Bruce

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Bruce Evans Handcrafted Knives
The soul of the Knife begins in the Fire!!!!!
Member of,AKTI#A000223 and The American Bladesmith Society
 
Crayola-

I sure wasn't trying to correct anybody, just saying what I have found to work for me
biggrin.gif


The key is being careful. I sometimes use the rotary tool to clean up what I did with files.

Diligence-

As far as getting hot... I haven't had that happen yet. You might want to contact Dremel I just use a little Ryobi right now, and for $35 it works awesome. I think that for the price, the Grizzly knock-off of a Foredom would be great. It's got a foot pedal control, runs 0-18,000 rpm with a 1/4 HP motor. I know a couple guys that have them, and unlike the posts here about Grizzly grinders, the rotary tool works great.

My $0.02
wink.gif

Nick
 
Hi Michael
Here is my humble opinion:
There are a dozen ways of doing just about anything, and most of them work for the one doing it that way.
About a year ago I posted this same question and got a bunch of different answers, just like you.
One of the old timers suggested I try the high speed [30,000 RPMs] dremel with only three tools: 1/2 inch drum sander, 1/4 inch drum sander, and the thin cut-off wheels [NOT the reinforced]. He then sent me a few pics with a little text. And then he did a couple of blades for me and returned them.
This gentleman will not touch a blade until it is hardened. Because that is the way he showed me, that is how I do it.
The only thing I do different is that I mount the dremel in a vise, tool up. The I hold the blade braced on the top of the vise and move it gently into the drum. I can use both hands like this and have lots better control, and can get very even patterns.
When I furst started it took 4 or 5 drums to finish a knife. The one I did last night is finished and the drum looks new. Gentle touch and high speed is the key for me.
Try a few things and see which works best for you
Go see another maker in your area if possible and see how they do things. Drive them crazy with questions.
Knifemaking is fun! Explore a little! Enjoy!

Dave Evans
Tenino, WA

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Proud Member
Buck Collector's Club
American Knife and Tool Institute
North West Knife Club
Oregon Knife Collectors Association
UsedKnife.Com
 
I do some thumb notch work after heat treat. i use 1/8, 1/4" carbide burrs. i have the fordom flexshaft and use it for every thing. index finger notchs and handle sculpting, useing the sanding bands. here a tip guys that i figured out. go to sears and buy their 4" long sanding bands for the ocsolating sanders. uue a coping saw and cut over lenth pieces . this give you the ablitie to do finger notches much easyer plus covering over the steel shaft cuts down on the oops factor. also the material is bonded on to the sleeve much better that the pre cut ones. they take longer to put on than they last. feel free to e-mail if you have any questions.

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Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
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